[GunMetalGrey]

Hello,
I have a 2018 ZL1 and I'm wondering if it's possible to get -2.5 to -3 camber in the front with the addition of camber plates while having 20x10.5 front wheels (with about 7mm less positive offset to counter half of the increased wheel width) so I can fit 305/30/20 on the fronts.

Has anyone tried this?

The idea is to have a separate set of race wheels and use the stock GY SC G3's until I get good enough to warrant using Hoosier R7's, this summer will be my first time racing on the track, but if I buy new wheels I want to be able to use them in the future not just the short term.

I saw another thread where an individual corded the outside shoulders of R7's in 2 track days on his ZL1 and then installed the ZLE DSSV's, but we are still waiting to hear back from him on if that helped.

[Move_Over]

Only way to get that much stock camber is to modify your struts by grinding the little tab off, and slotting the upper camber bolt slot. (About 1.5mm will yield a few tenths of a degree). I m sitting right at -3.

[Chris V]

My car is an SS 1LE, but it's the same suspension as your ZL1.

Grind the strut ears, add camber plates up top, and you have lots of room.

I'm running -3.6* camber and 19 x 11" front wheels (5th gen Z28 fitment/ZL1 1LE).

[RUQWIKR]

Originally Posted by Chris V

My car is an SS 1LE, but it's the same suspension as your ZL1.

Grind the strut ears, add camber plates up top, and you have lots of room.

I'm running -3.6* camber and 19 x 11" front wheels (5th gen Z28 fitment/ZL1 1LE).

19x11 +11mm fit up front with just the grinding at -2.8 with no spacer.

I think he might be wanting to run 20x10.5 +22mm square set up that some guys use, typically, 19" with 305's. You'll need a 5mm spacer up front and grind the struts. That combo gives the same poke / location to the outer lip on the rears as a 19x12 +41mm ZL1 1LE wheel. Up front, with the 5mm spacer, it will be about the same inner clearance but poke about 12mm less than a Z28 or ZL1 1LE front (19x11 +11mm).

The website below is one of many that makes for easy calculations of this...

If going square, I'd recommend 19x10.5 +22mm with 305's in your choice (lots from slicks, Hoosier DOT's, RE71R's, G3R's, RS4's, etc.). You could even go 18" but strut clearance will be even less. Plus, caliper clearance will be REAL tight.

https://www.willtheyfit.com/

[Move_Over]

Originally Posted by RUQWIKR

19x11 +11mm fit up front with just the grinding at -2.8 with no spacer.

I think he might be wanting to run 20x10.5 +22mm square set up that some guys use, typically, 19" with 305's. You'll need a 5mm spacer up front and grind the struts. That combo gives the same poke / location to the outer lip on the rears as a 19x12 +41mm ZL1 1LE wheel. Up front, with the 5mm spacer, it will be about the same inner clearance but poke about 12mm less than a Z28 or ZL1 1LE front (19x11 +11mm).

The website below is one of many that makes for easy calculations of this...

If going square, I'd recommend 19x10.5 +22mm with 305's in your choice (lots from slicks, Hoosier DOT's, RE71R's, G3R's, RS4's, etc.). You could even go 18" but strut clearance will be even less. Plus, caliper clearance will be REAL tight.

https://www.willtheyfit.com/

Agreed, i run both an 18 and a 19” setup both 10.5 et 22. With the 18” -3 camber and modified struts, it still rubs on the strut, so you’ll need a 12mm strut for an 18” to clear. 19 et 22 with a 5mm spacer you’re clearing by about 3mm.

[RUQWIKR]

Originally Posted by Move_Over

Agreed, i run both an 18 and a 19” setup both 10.5 et 22. With the 18” -3 camber and modified struts, it still rubs on the strut, so you’ll need a 12mm strut for an 18” to clear. 19 et 22 with a 5mm strut you’re clearing by about 3mm.

You mean spacer not strut.

GunMetalGrey - make sure to use Dorman, ARP, etc. of studs with more threads to ensure enough thread engagement with spacers. Some guys run 5mm spacers without changing studs. That's their choice. I would not want to go from ~14mm thread engagement to ~9mm and track it. With a 12mm spacer, you'd barely get a turn or two of the lug engaged fully without a stud change.

[Move_Over]

Originally Posted by RUQWIKR

You mean spacer not strut.

GunMetalGrey - make sure to use Dorman, ARP, etc. of studs with more threads to ensure enough thread engagement with spacers. Some guys run 5mm spacers without changing studs. That's their choice. I would not want to go from ~14mm thread engagement to ~9mm and track it. With a 12mm spacer, you'd barely get a turn or two of the lug engaged fully without a stud change.

Doh! I need to post less from my phone lol.