[oldman]

Originally Posted by ParisTNDude

The few times I run at the drag strip it's at Memphis Raceway on test and tune nights. They do almost no prep and many junker cars run leaking stuff all over the track...sometimes dangerous traction problems occur.m

Sounds like my local track. Good luck, The A8 is easier to launch.

[SS 1LE]

Originally Posted by oldman

Let us say that a converter, tune and test pipe are not out of the ordinary. You mentioned once and only once a stock car. By his sig I have no idea what mods he had at the time, but it ain't like we are talking N20 or something.

Face it a 1.56 on DR is an excellent time for a minor mod car. No qualifications needed. While you are now stuck on bone stock perfect track and el perfecto driver. Great I would say the vast majority of stock or near stock cars on the vast majority of tracks, under the vast majority of conditions, with the vast majority of drivers will yield better, quicker and more consistent and most satisficing results with a properly sized DR. We can all then agree your just better. Nuff said that is why we have a drag strip eh?


Again, are you reading what I write? I'm begining to think your username fits you well.



Yep, I missed the word, I stand corrected.

As pointed out the total ratio of 1st gear plus rear diff on an A8 is much lower than just about any car know so it is EASIER to break traction, despite your claim as you completely left out the gear in the trans that was pertinent to the discussion.

The OP's car is new, and stock...hence my statements.

I mentioned stock car, prepped track a few times as well. A crappy track, or modded car will of course need a tire, I totally agree there.

Fact is there are many good tracks that prep well. Both I use prep well even on test and tune nights. I had zero issues with traction with my previous automatic Coyote. Even with all season, factory tires and a tune and exhaust work. I even for the heck of it tried a friends drag radials, since I had no traction issues, there was no gains. I am a long time member of S197, which is far more busy than here, and at least weekly someone is complaining about no gains after doing a tire. Then we find out they have an auto that is hooking well lol. Even with the aggressive transmission gearing, it's the final drive ratio/rear gears that takes the initial hit, remember.

All I am saying is before anyone buys a tire, test first at your local track. If it's good and prepped you may not need a set. Simple as that...

[oldman]

Originally Posted by SS 1LE

The OP's car is new, and stock...hence my statements.

I mentioned stock car, prepped track a few times as well. A crappy track, or modded car will of course need a tire, I totally agree there.

Fact is there are many good tracks that prep well. Both I use prep well even on test and tune nights. I had zero issues with traction with my previous automatic Coyote. Even with all season, factory tires and a tune and exhaust work. I even for the heck of it tried a friends drag radials, since I had no traction issues, there was no gains. I am a long time member of S197, which is far more busy than here, and at least weekly someone is complaining about no gains after doing a tire. Then we find out they have an auto that is hooking well lol. Even with the aggressive transmission gearing, it's the final drive ratio/rear gears that takes the initial hit, remember.

All I am saying is before anyone buys a tire, test first at your local track. If it's good and prepped you may not need a set. Simple as that...

sounds reasonable to me. I already know my local 1/8 mile track is blah.

[SS 1LE]

Originally Posted by oldman

sounds reasonable to me. I already know my local 1/8 mile track is blah.

My local 1/8 sucks too, it's an old airstrip with no cement starting area and no prep. My 1/4 miles is cement to almost the 1/8 mile and gets prepped hourly...

[big hammer]

Coyote is also weak sauce on the low end

[SS 1LE]

Originally Posted by big hammer

Coyote is also weak sauce on the low end

Well, same thing goes for some of my other cars that had even more low end torque...that's how good my track can be (usually).

[Pro Stock John]

Originally Posted by CAPerformance16

I've included what pics I have. These are Hoosier 28/10.5/17 Slicks. I've cut a best of a 1.52 60" foot with them.

So the OEM 17x9.5 C5Z rims fit with stock brakes? Interesting.

One of my rear sets of rims for my 2010:

[ParisTNDude]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

I did forget one thing since I don't know anything about late model overdrives. My g8 before the supercharger would run 13.30 with street tires and 13.11 with drag radials and my g8 had almost identical 1st gear as my new Camaro, both in the 4.5 range and 12.20's with street tires and 11.80's after the supercharger with drag radials. So, what I've found on my cars is that you will pick up. If you pick up your 60' time you should also pick up on your ets. So, keep on drag racing with or with drag radials, its all good.

Wouldn't you say, then, that drag radials improve ET only if you're losing traction on stock tires. I'm hearing the 2016 Camaro 8A is dead hooking with 20 PSI in rear and 45 PSI in front and slamming the pedal to the floor on launch. It seems to me it would be hard to improve on that with DRs unless somehow you achieved a gear ratio improvement with smaller or larger tires.

[SpeedIsLife]

With absolutely, totally, unnaturally good track prep?...yeah a street tire *should* hook as well as a DR.

However, DR's make up for a less than perfect track. They help mitigate the variables of temperature (track getting cold/hot) and track surface irregularities.

If you're wavering between getting wheels and DR's..the answer should be yes.

[ParisTNDude]

Originally Posted by SpeedIsLife

With absolutely, totally, unnaturally good track prep?...yeah a street tire *should* hook as well as a DR.

However, DR's make up for a less than perfect track. They help mitigate the variables of temperature (track getting cold/hot) and track surface irregularities.

If you're wavering between getting wheels and DR's..the answer should be yes.

I have a set of MT 315 45 17 DRs mounted on C5 Z06 front wheels. The same setup the C6 Vette guys use. I used them about 5 runs at the Holley LS Fest last year on my Grand Sport. I'm probably going to test fit them tomorrow to see what needs to be done to make them fit. If it's too much, I will just sell the set and either go without them or buy a set for 2016 Camaro wheels that are acceptable. I can't afford Bogarts and some of the other wheels that are outlandishly over priced.

[CAPerformance16]

Originally Posted by Pro Stock John

So the OEM 17x9.5 C5Z rims fit with stock brakes? Interesting.

One of my rear sets of rims for my 2010:

Yes sir with minor shaving of the caliper. I attached a couple of pics.

Originally Posted by ParisTNDude

I'm probably going to test fit them tomorrow to see what needs to be done to make them fit. If it's too much, I will just sell the set and either go without them or buy a set for 2016 Camaro wheels that are acceptable. I can't afford Bogarts and some of the other wheels that are outlandishly over priced.

Minor grinding of the caliper will be needed. One wheel actually fit without touching but was too close for my taste for any flex while Street driving. Took both down alittle and zero issues.

[ParisTNDude]

Originally Posted by CAPerformance16

Yes sir with minor shaving of the caliper. I attached a couple of pics.



Minor grinding of the caliper will be needed. One wheel actually fit without touching but was too close for my taste for any flex while Street driving. Took both down alittle and zero issues.

I'm guessing you repainted the ground down points. I didn't see any bare metal. You've pretty much convinced me to keep them and do the grinding. You trailer to the track, I'm presuming. The wheels I have fit in the back of my Grand Sport along with all the stuff I needed for a three day trek to the LS Fest. I will do that again this year since there should be super consistency with this car.

When you have no TPMS for the rear rims, do you have to pull fuses or relays? My Vette wouldn't rev higher than 4K when you didn't have the TPM in the wheels. Had to pull the traction control or one of the other relays to get rid of that.

[CAPerformance16]

Originally Posted by ParisTNDude

I'm guessing you repainted the ground down points. I didn't see any bare metal. You've pretty much convinced me to keep them and do the grinding. You trailer to the track, I'm presuming. The wheels I have fit in the back of my Grand Sport along with all the stuff I needed for a three day trek to the LS Fest. I will do that again this year since there should be super consistency with this car.

When you have no TPMS for the rear rims, do you have to pull fuses or relays? My Vette wouldn't rev higher than 4K when you didn't have the TPM in the wheels. Had to pull the traction control or one of the other relays to get rid of that.

I did not repaint. I will most likely when I get some down time.

I actually drive it like this to and from the track. Probably have ~800 Street miles like this.

No pulling of any fuses or anything. Just put it in track mode and hit the TCS button twice. Otherwise it acts funky braking and occasional throttle by itself. But that's more because of the difference in tire size I think tripping the wheels speed sensors.

[SS 1LE]

Originally Posted by ParisTNDude

Wouldn't you say, then, that drag radials improve ET only if you're losing traction on stock tires. I'm hearing the 2016 Camaro 8A is dead hooking with 20 PSI in rear and 45 PSI in front and slamming the pedal to the floor on launch. It seems to me it would be hard to improve on that with DRs unless somehow you achieved a gear ratio improvement with smaller or larger tires.

Yes. if you aren't having traction issues, a drag radial will not do anything. It comes down to your track prep...check your local track first and see if you have traction issues before you make any investment.