[caSStro18]

Originally Posted by LT4Greg

Blackheart, if you have warranty left on your Camaro I wouldn’t put a catchcan on the engine as the warranty will be void if you do.��

Exactly why I decided to leave one off for now. I was also told the valves can be cleaned for a relatively low cost. I think like $100 or something, and only needs to be done after many, many miles. Not worth sacrificing my warranty.

[L8Apex]

I thought they had to prove the aftermarket part caused any issue before they threw out the warranty, Massey-Ferguson act?

[SSDan]

Originally Posted by L8Apex

I thought they had to prove the aftermarket part caused any issue before they threw out the warranty, Massey-Ferguson act?

Here is the problem with that. The dealership can deny warranty work with little or no regard to the M-F act. The burden falls to you to prove the mod in question did not cause or contribute to the failure. In other words you will have to fight hard and long with probable legal assistance to win the day if the dealership decides to void the warranty for performance mods. Many of us (me included) don't want any more battles to fight in life so we chose to stay away from performance mods while under warranty.

[Zaqwert6]

It would take about 30 seconds to snap the factory line back on if needed.



Maybe less.

Originally Posted by LT4Greg

Blackheart, if you have warranty left on your Camaro I wouldn’t put a catchcan on the engine as the warranty will be void if you do.��

[Yellow Beast]

Originally Posted by Zaqwert6

It would take about 30 seconds to snap the factory line back on if needed.



Maybe less.

Exactly. Have mine in a box ready to put back on. Hopefully I won't need to.

[caSStro18]

Originally Posted by Zaqwert6

It would take about 30 seconds to snap the factory line back on if needed.



Maybe less.

I would argue a bit more than 30 seconds to remove all traces of the catch can. But, yes, it would be pretty quick to remove the whole setup depending on which one you have installed. But, if something WERE to happen to the car and it WAS because of the catch can, my concern is that they would somehow know. I try to assume not all mechanics are morons and could prove that there was in fact a catch can installed which caused the problem. The catch can is simply not worth it to me. Not having it will not damage my engine. Sure, I might lose some HP if the valves were really coated with oil, but I doubt I would ever notice. I just think that if the car really needed a catch can the manufacturer would have put one in there. Yes, I understand that they probably didn't put one there because it's another maintenance item and many people would simply not service the catch can. But if the car REALLY needed it, they could just disclose that when purchasing the car. Make buyers sign something confirming the need to service the catch can. But, they don't, so, not taking chances while still under warranty. However, it's my car and that's my choice.

[Whitespeed]

Originally Posted by BlackbeastSS2

Very true. Replace that TB line with a breather cap and plug the hole in the air intake elbow. Breather caps where used on valve covers before the EPA and emission standards made manufactures go this route. Not good for engine longevity to put the dirty side blowby in the TB.

If you haven't already, you'd be wise to read post #10 by Mark114. It appears you've created an un-metered air leak that the ECU has to try to compensate for after the fact. The negative consequences of that likely will far outweigh the consequences of the very small amount of residual oil that gets drawn into the intake. As Mark114 also pointed out, this is the 'clean' side of the system.



Nigel

[BlackbeastSS2]

Originally Posted by Whitespeed

If you haven't already, you'd be wise to read post #10 by Mark114. It appears you've created an un-metered air leak that the ECU has to try to compensate for after the fact. The negative consequences of that likely will far outweigh the consequences of the very small amount of residual oil that gets drawn into the intake. As Mark114 also pointed out, this is the 'clean' side of the system.



Nigel

I will stick with my Master Mechanics advise that builds engines and tunes high performance builds. But hey that’s what a forum is for, discussion.

In regards to your remarks. The only way I can see any air getting in unmetered would be having a breather hooked up in addition to the stock PCV. (It’s a definitely a no no to add a breather cap and keep your stock PCV route intact) I have plugged the TB route of the PCV. In my case saying it’s unmetered air not read by the MAF or ECU is true, but it would still be read by the MAP so not a big deal for tuned cars. My car is tuned and I do have a AFR gauge to make sure my system set up is safe. (Just in case if it did go lean)

Now if you only just throw on the breather cap and doing nothing else I would agree with you.

[Elite Engineering]

Whitespeed is correct.


And if you look at all forms of Professional racing, except the few classes that don't allow crankcase evac systems like stock and superstock in NHRA, NO form uses breathers. Breathers break the systems circuit of flushing and evacuation and allow in unmetered air. Yes, you can do a SD tune and tune out the MAF, but drive-ability then suffers. Prior to the mid 1960's all engines used a breather and an engine rarely lasted more than 40-50k miles before needing complete rebuilds due to wear. After the PCV system was mandated, these same engines, using the same oils and oil change intervals now were lasting 100k plus miles and wear was fractional when tore down. So but running a breather your back to leaving all the wear and damage causing combustion by-products in the crankcase again like the pre 1960's technology. NEVER go back to that if you value your engine.


The LT1 and LT4 have a cleanside separator from the factory that is located on the front of the passenger side cylinder head as Mark114 stated.


It does return what is caught to the crankcase which is not the greatest as the oil is saturated with contaminants and its returning them back as well. BUT, as this is only 5-10% of the total ingestion, it is an acceptable solution for the cleanside.


Now, there is far more than intake valve coking to be concerned with. And lets first address the valve coking. The average "catchcan" will do little to prevent it as most can designs only trap a small percentage of what enters them still allowing most to pass through and still be ingested. Anyone can test this themselves to see and not blindly trust what someone says. Simply install our E2-X inline AFTER any other can design and run it for 1000 miles. Our design second in line will trap as much or more than the can first inline AFTER it did it's best. Reverse the order and only drops get past ours.


So lets look at manually cleaning the valves, this should be done every 15k miles and costs run from $500-$1500. You NEVER want to do a solvent based cleaning like a dealer may urge with a GDI engine as damage will occur scouring pistons and rings!!
But the real issue with doing this is the wear to the soft bronze alloy guides as this hard abrasive deposit is drawn up into the guide with every stroke. That is the real damage the coking does aside from the obvious disruption of incoming air charge.


A proper system retains an emissions compliant closed system, stops nearly all of the ingestion and provides full time evacuation, the oil stays far cleaner longer than without as this oil analysis shows running our system. And this is on a twin turbo GDI engine with over 20# of boost so it is bombarded by much more in the way of contaminants than a NA engine is:
<a href="https://app.photobucket.com/u/tech17/p/7b11a52b-3451-46c0-a9dd-9ea5842402b1" target="_blank"><img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/j392/tech17/.highres/Falcon%20long%20term%20testing_zps7l9mvzrs.jpg" border="0" alt="Falcon long term testing_zps7l9mvzrs"/></a>



So from the "protecting your engine" standpoint never before have the benefits been as obvious as with todays GDI engines.


Now onto the warranty, LT4Greg, can you give some specific examples (not the hearsay, documented) of anyone that had their warranty voided for installing one of our Patented systems? There are none. We had ONE in our history using our base can that the dealer tried to blame for the well known oil pump failure on his LS car. That was disproved later, so out of the 10's of thousands of these in use over the years, none. BUT, this does not mean an unscrupulous dealer wont hassle you. That is always something to think about, and yes, our systems can be easily removed and reverted to stock if you have a concern. But by Federal Law, ours cannot like the breather cans that CAN be grounds to void the warranty as they do delete/defeat, or otherwise reduce the functions of the OEM system.


Any other questions? Ask, we not only will give accurate info and answers, we also give the documentation to back it up unlike any other can design.

[BlackbeastSS2]

Elite Engineer read your post and will discuss your post with a few respected car individuals. It’s always good to hear everyone’s views to steer people in the right direction.

Let me ask you this, because I have a Mighty Mouse catch can with only one inlet if I took that inlet and did a T connection and added that dirty side nipple where I have the breather cap would that be a correct set up in your mind. Since it vents out the catch can clean side? Hope you understand what I a saying and I was thinking about getting the 3 hose catch can for that purpose. I better not discuss my views on the EGR valves on cars too and I didn’t run the purge solenoid either on my 2016 High Ram Camaro SS. I am such a bad environmentalist.

I guess it almost really comes down to who to believe as Elite says facts help.

https://www.google.ca/amp/s/opposite...1634156554/amp


Now after watching the below link do we really need a catch can? As I said before, who do we really believe now. I am personally rethinking my set up. More to follow.

https://youtu.be/dBAqxSXFyb4

[ZX-10R]

That video is painful, talk about a blowhard.

Elite has abundant evidence (i.e. pictures from multiple cars) of valve coking in as little as a few thousand miles. It's real.

Furthermore, blowby that gets into the intake (and contains fuel) contaminates your oil - fast. I've seen the difference first hand on several performance engines. Again it's more of a problem on boosted engines (the more boost the worse the problem), but still a concern.

Very happy with my Elite catch can, would not run the car without one.

[LT4Greg]

Well I do know that to put a catchcan on my ZL1 is a real pain in the ass so I probably won’t be adding one and I still have the drivetrain warranty left! To the person at Elite Engineering, a person on this forum had a catchcan on his SS and something happened to his engine and the dealer denied his warranty claim due to the catchcan. That’s what I was referring to and you know I really don’t care if someone wants to put one on their Camaro. You have a good product but it’s just not for me! If the Op wants one then it’s his decision!

[Zaqwert6]

Nah, it's super easy. And there would be zero Trace, at least on my car. I can't speak for people who do other installations.

I can just tell you that it absolutely does work, it does catch oil that would otherwise go to places where oil should not go. My car only has about 8,000 miles on it, and it has already caught enough oil to make me feel better knowing it's on there. So that part is not really debatable. There is virtually zero chance of any negative effects on the engine.

Warranty yeah well that's why everyone does have a choice. There have been Horror Storys where they deny warranty for mufflers and or cat back exhaust. For Not using GM part numbers, and right on Down the Line. If that was my primary concern, I would have just leased.

So just sharing my experience. For what it's worth.

Originally Posted by caSStro18

I would argue a bit more than 30 seconds to remove all traces of the catch can. But, yes, it would be pretty quick to remove the whole setup depending on which one you have installed. But, if something WERE to happen to the car and it WAS because of the catch can, my concern is that they would somehow know. I try to assume not all mechanics are morons and could prove that there was in fact a catch can installed which caused the problem. The catch can is simply not worth it to me. Not having it will not damage my engine. Sure, I might lose some HP if the valves were really coated with oil, but I doubt I would ever notice. I just think that if the car really needed a catch can the manufacturer would have put one in there. Yes, I understand that they probably didn't put one there because it's another maintenance item and many people would simply not service the catch can. But if the car REALLY needed it, they could just disclose that when purchasing the car. Make buyers sign something confirming the need to service the catch can. But, they don't, so, not taking chances while still under warranty. However, it's my car and that's my choice.

[pavetim]

I hate when dealers bitch about warranty and mods. Magnusun moss warranty act states they have to prove the mod caused the damage to reject it. I know real life that doesnt happen but thats the deal. But yes a true catch can is very good. I have a range rover with direct injection and those motors with direct injection build up oil bad on the valves.