[SATINSTEEL1LE]

Lets hear what you are using and how its effected your traps/ETs and measured HP.

I would assume everyone does a rotofab at first. But all I feel is a bit more blower whine.

I'd like to pick up a few tenths and a few MPH over stock. Whats next?

[taylorforschool@gmail.com]

I’m still stock… from what I have gathered your next step if you were taking it step by step could be a solid e85 tune. I’m assuming this question is ignoring a warranty.


Also I’m no tuner but I get a weird feeling our cars work better with like e50-60 but I could be wrong. Something about injectors blah blah idk someone with a better explanation will chime in soon enough

[SATINSTEEL1LE]

Originally Posted by taylorforschool@gmail.com

I’m still stock… from what I have gathered your next step if you were taking it step by step could be a solid e85 tune. I’m assuming this question is ignoring a warranty.

Yeah no warranty concern.

But for full E you need many parts as well correct? Like injectors and fuel pump and whatnot?

[taylorforschool@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by SATINSTEEL1LE

Yeah no warranty concern.

But for full E you need many parts as well correct? Like injectors and fuel pump and whatnot?

Like I said you might get mixed answers, but I know you can do it on stock parts. I guess at that point you will have some debating reliability etc, but if you get tuned properly and have the proper kit I don’t think you necessarily have to have pump and injectors, but I’m no expert. It’s late so some of the more Knowledgeable will have chimed in by the morning.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

I would call JRE for his 125 package. I believe the single best value mod would be a flexfuel kit and tune... but logic says if you are going to tune, you would want to make the most of that investment also, so a solid phase 1 mod plan would be a JRE 125 package or similar (headers, rotofab, flexfuel)


Simply put, to get the best value of a tune, save for as many bolt-ons as you can at once... hope that helps.

[LiqTenExp]

2650

[Z OH 6]

Nitrous.

[zig_zag]

Soliciting opinions about the best choice between these parts:

1. Magnuson vs. Whipple...?
2. Kooks vs. ARH vs Stainless Works...?
3. Roto Fab vs. AFE ...?

Ease of install,
Ease to adapt to platform,
Best quality,
Best price vs. quality,

[Gunkk]

Originally Posted by SATINSTEEL1LE

Lets hear what you are using and how its effected your traps/ETs and measured HP.

I would assume everyone does a rotofab at first. But all I feel is a bit more blower whine.

I'd like to pick up a few tenths and a few MPH over stock. Whats next?

For tenths...

Best bang for the buck: driver mod.

After that: deweight. Hint: front seats.

Then: flex fuel & tune.

[KingLT1]

Flex sensor and tune. Should be able to run around E70 otherwise stock

Next set of mods would be, ported supercharger, headers, rotofab, 103tb. Should still be able to run E50.

Next step from here is fuel system and pulley. We are running E60 with +30 injectors, LPE hpfp, jms, with a 2.17 pulley making 14 psi on a Kong standard port. I would also look at ToohighPSI port injection setup.

Last step Heads/cam...and if this step is in your plans skip the ported supercharger and go to a bigger unit.

[radz28]

Originally Posted by zig_zag

Soliciting opinions about the best choice between these parts:

1. Magnuson vs. Whipple...?
2. Kooks vs. ARH vs Stainless Works...?
3. Roto Fab vs. AFE ...?

Ease of install,
Ease to adapt to platform,
Best quality,
Best price vs. quality,

I've done everything on your list on past cars, and with a variety of vendors, but I'm only sticking to this car, and vendors:

Maggie 2650:

• Easy to install, depending on the kit you purchase. I got the full kit, which made everything a breeze. If there was a difficulty, it was moving the blowers around without screwing the car up.
• Quality is probably about the same. There was a pulley thread about a Whipple, but I haven't noticed another, here. I kinda' doubt there's anymore an issue with a Whipple than a Maggie. You can see there's a leaky intercooler thread around here for a Maggie, so, I think it's a toss-up, and you'll likely be fine in quality from either.
• Prices seem to mostly be in-line with each other. I might consider taking extra time, and being honest with yourself, regarding what kit you get with a blower. Yes - a kit with more stuff is going to cost more, but sometimes that's easier than having to track down, or fab' up the same stuff. If you're a do-it-yourself kind, maybe a full kit is a good idea.
• Price vs Quality - I'm VERY happy with my purchase and would do it again without thinking about it.

RE: Rotofab
Just go Rotofab. I'm sure the other CAIs are just fine. I don't think you'll find anyone that would complain about their RF. Quality, fit & finish, design, value, etc., are all top notch, and with a BG - you'll need a racecar, essentially, if you want to max' that thing out.

I think the post about JRE's package is a good one to consider, too. He was testing from the start, and getting great improvements, with pretty much ZERO downsides to anything else. Same kind of boost, so no increase in MATs, and opening up the front and back of the engine just made it more efficient with the hardware GM gave us. With some E', you can take the fueling to it's limits, but get all the benefits, with very little downsides. If this were a package I could run, I probably would've gone this way, with a ported blower. I think that would have put me at the power goal I set. I think this package would allow the car to be completely happy for as long as there's fuel to power it.

[Vigilante375]

People can talk all day about the mods that can be done.

The real answer is what is YOUR goal and how much are you willing to spend.

FYI, any CAI is not going to gain you anything but extra whine from the supercharger and even then. A CAI for the ZL1 isn't really needed until around 700 or 750 rwhp. The stock airbox is very efficient.

[SATINSTEEL1LE]

Originally Posted by Gunkk

For tenths...

Best bang for the buck: driver mod.

After that: deweight. Hint: front seats.

Then: flex fuel & tune.

Got the driver mod and drag radial. I was able to run completely stock with only the DR and the car gave all it had. No traction issues. Completely flat to the floor until the stripe. There is not much else you can do with a completely stock car on a tire. It just doesnt want to go any faster.

As for removing weight, I might do the passenger seat and rear seat.

[NG329]

Originally Posted by Vigilante375

People can talk all day about the mods that can be done.

The real answer is what is YOUR goal and how much are you willing to spend.

FYI, any CAI is not going to gain you anything but extra whine from the supercharger and even then. A CAI for the ZL1 isn't really needed until around 700 or 750 rwhp. The stock airbox is very efficient.

This has already been debunked with back to back dynos. To your point tho, A "Big Gulp" rotofab isn't really needed until 700+rwhp.