[Wuiquen]

Hello,

I have read lots of emails and seen videos about the install of headers in the ZL1. I still can't find one that walks thru everything. Does anyone have instructions I can use?

Should I just pay for the installation? I was quoted 1k which seems high. I have also seen where there is so many things that need to be removed like the steering shaft, coolant reservoir (need to purge the system), starter, skid plate and plastic covers, etc. Out of everything that I have seen, the coolant portion is what concerns me the most, how do I stop the coolant from leaking if I have to remove the hoses? How to purge and refill the system after? Can I install the headers with just moving the reservoir out of the way?

I have access to a garage, quick lift, tools, and time. I am just hesitant due to unknown. I have done headers in the past for my C6 and my Camaro Gen5. Those were easy.

What should I do? Shop or DIY? I am leaning towards the DIY even if I have to do it over many weeks. I don't drive the car that often.

Any help is appreciated. I have been waiting on my warranty to expire so I can do this mod.

[Wuiquen]

Forgot, can I reuse my OEM gasket for the headers?

[D3adch1ld]

DIY, its tedious, but very doable. I did my on a Sunday.

You can remove the reservoir easily, get plastic clamps from Autozone, I placed a large ziplock bag under the reservoir when disconnecting the hoses, dont drain the hole thing, just place it on a tilt as to not let the rest of that coolant out.

You can reuse the gaskets, but just play it safe and get new ones.

I did have to loosen the starter for mine and the bolt for the steering shaft, its a no brainer to resinstall.



Sent from my SM-F946U1 using Tapatalk

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Not alot of information to work from here, I think a good response would factor in your past experience, access to tools, lifting equiptment, second set of hands, access to a repair manual for torque specs....

Based on your question, my guess is that you should pay the shop.
Question; what brand are you going with? Kooks or ARH or equivalent I hope?

Believe t or not, but headers are NOT created equally. Heard of, and experienced my own buyers remorse, trying to go cheap.

Adding to the topic through... there are a few things that are easy to do, while installing headers that will also help future work, performance and reliability.

1. BMR Motor Mounts; lots of info here on the forum, i love mine, and many others do. Great improvement in throttle response, and more clearance for the headers.
2. V Bands. I have heard of so many people complaining of exhaust leaks, and when i had them myself, I decided to have a local muffler shop weld in some V band clamps... this makes future work a breeze, and no more leaks!
3. Wideband bung... if doing Vbands, have them weld in a bung, upstream of the collector for a future wideband.
4. Spark plugs... easy access right after new headers are on.

Hope this helps.
and if not... well, at least it was cheap

[Bangkok_ZL1]

I'm doing mine right now. The car is on blocks and I have a month to install Jannetty's 125 RWHP kit with an interchiller (Thailand, it's HOT). Because I'm putting on a spacer between the head and the supercharger, I had to pull the supercharger as well. OK, if I were you, it would depend on two things. #1) Do I care about the grand. This is a hassle, no question. And there are things that could go wrong. So, it might be worth the grand to have it done for you, especially if it comes with the tune. In my case, because I'm in Thailand, I pretty much have to do it myself. So, I've decided to have fun with "Miss America". I'm being extremely slow and deliberate in everything I do. Yet, if I could have it done for me by (this is point 2....) somebody I really trust, then I'd probably let them do it. I have better things to do with my time concerning my work. Then there is a third point as well. Do you like wrenching on the car... If you do and you have time, then make it an adventure and enjoy it. That's what I'm doing now. Have a beer, take a few days. enjoy getting under her and seeing how she works.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

So, I did all this and more on my ZL1: My major FBO starts here:

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...=611982&page=5

But my entire journey starts here: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=611982

When I bought my headers, I research a lot and I personally felt the CSP Headers manufactured by Stainless Works had the best and easiest install as far as clearance and how well they fit etc. I did this myself with no helper. Also, what size long tubes are you considering 1 7/8" or 2" or what? I went 2", but I feel since I was only doing Full bolt on mods, maybe I should of went with 1 7/8". But smarter people on this forum can chime in as I'm no where nearly as smart as most these guys!

I did mine in one day and before I started anything I watched this video multiple times (like 10) and it was spot on for my ! SOCAL.M6.ZLE makes all good points. I did mine owe header install because I was also do a ton more FBO mods. Thus, I just decided to roll up my sleeves and go for it! I made a lot of mistakes along the way that I shared in my thread. So learn from that and you might be able to get by with making few or none ! GOOG LUCK and remember don't over tighten the exhaust flange bolts where the headers connect to the exhaust and remember to follow the torque specs !!!!

[Dynamical]

I have a question for people who know bout this and it would also add into the decision of installing your own headers or not.

I have read here on the forum if you install your own headers, you will end up with permanent codes and that even taking the car for a tune, the tuner can't get rid of? So because of this reason, headers should be installed at the tuners shop so you don't end up with permanent codes? You guys who know, is this correct or incorrect?

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by Dynamical

I have a question for people who know bout this and it would also add into the decision of installing your own headers or not.

I have read here on the forum if you install your own headers, you will end up with permanent codes and that even taking the car for a tune, the tuner can't get rid of? So because of this reason, headers should be installed at the tuners shop so you don't end up with permanent codes? You guys who know, is this correct or incorrect?

You need to disable the codes and flash the tune before starting the car and you won't have the permanent codes. HPtuners is a great Invesment for anybody that mods their cars. Tuner can email you a base file to start the car with if you plan on doing the work yourself.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Yes What he (KING) said ! I have ZERO codes, codes I can clear or permanent codes of any kind. Not sure where you heard this but I'm not sure it's accurate!

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

Yes What he (KING) said ! I have ZERO code, codes I can clear or permanent code of any kind. Not sure where you heard this but I'm not sure it's accurate!

On 2017+ If you remove cats or anything emissions related on your car, start it, let the ECU cycle through it's emission tests, and it detects any issue, you will get a hard(permanent code) until resolved. Even if you go in the tune and disable the codes after the fact, they will remain permanent and will require putting all of the emissions stuff back in place, so the ECU can complete it's emissions cycle before the permanent code will disappear. Now this doesn't hurt anything per say, but if you live in a state where they check with a scanner, you may be screwed.

The ideal order of operations for those modding cars is to disable any codes in the ECU prior to starting the engine post mods.

[Dynamical]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

On 2017+ If you remove cats or anything emissions related on your car, start it, let the ECU cycle through it's emission tests, and it detects any issue, you will get a hard(permanent code) until resolved. Even if you go in the tune and disable the codes after the fact, they will remain permanent and will require putting all of the emissions stuff back in place, so the ECU can complete it's emissions cycle before the permanent code will disappear. Now this doesn't hurt anything per say, but if you live in a state where they check with a scanner, you may be screwed.

The ideal order of operations for those modding cars is to disable any codes in the ECU prior to starting the engine post mods.

Now this is what I'm talking about. Thank you for the clarification KingLT1

So in layman's terms, I cant go installing my headers, then go driving to the tuner when it's convenient to get a tune like I did with my LS1 stuff. Instead I would have to expect these PITA perma-codes.

I guess the bottom line for me is either buy a tuning suite and learn how to tune or have the headers installed by a good shop. At this point, I'm just a wrench turner, no knowledge of messing with the ECM whatsoever

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Originally Posted by Dynamical

Now this is what I'm talking about. Thank you for the clarification KingLT1

So in layman's terms, I cant go installing my headers, then go driving to the tuner when it's convenient to get a tune like I did with my LS1 stuff. Instead I would have to expect these PITA perma-codes.

I guess the bottom line for me is either buy a tuning suite and learn how to tune or have the headers installed by a good shop. At this point, I'm just a wrench turner, no knowledge of messing with the ECM whatsoever

Remember, many shops and reputable tuners on this forum will do a remote tune for a fee. If you buy the HPTuners module (and credits) and have a laptop, you can flash the tune file they send you. Then data log and send that back to them, then it's WASH - RINSE - REPEAT! I had both CSP Racing and Jannetty Racing do my remote tunes and it was quite easy!

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by Dynamical

Now this is what I'm talking about. Thank you for the clarification KingLT1

So in layman's terms, I cant go installing my headers, then go driving to the tuner when it's convenient to get a tune like I did with my LS1 stuff. Instead I would have to expect these PITA perma-codes.

I guess the bottom line for me is either buy a tuning suite and learn how to tune or have the headers installed by a good shop. At this point, I'm just a wrench turner, no knowledge of messing with the ECM whatsoever

Yep that is correct. Now the Perma codes won't trip the CEL, they are just stored in the background. So, if your state hooks up to the OBD2 then you will have issues.

You can also have it remote tuned. Buy HPt,install a AEM 30-0334 wideband, and hit up someone for remote tuning services. There are a few great options out there for this.

[Wuiquen]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Not alot of information to work from here, I think a good response would factor in your past experience, access to tools, lifting equiptment, second set of hands, access to a repair manual for torque specs....

Based on your question, my guess is that you should pay the shop.
Question; what brand are you going with? Kooks or ARH or equivalent I hope?

Believe t or not, but headers are NOT created equally. Heard of, and experienced my own buyers remorse, trying to go cheap.

Adding to the topic through... there are a few things that are easy to do, while installing headers that will also help future work, performance and reliability.

1. BMR Motor Mounts; lots of info here on the forum, i love mine, and many others do. Great improvement in throttle response, and more clearance for the headers.
2. V Bands. I have heard of so many people complaining of exhaust leaks, and when i had them myself, I decided to have a local muffler shop weld in some V band clamps... this makes future work a breeze, and no more leaks!
3. Wideband bung... if doing Vbands, have them weld in a bung, upstream of the collector for a future wideband.
4. Spark plugs... easy access right after new headers are on.

Hope this helps.
and if not... well, at least it was cheap

They are ARH. I guess I wish I would have know about the wideband being before I coated my headers. I wouldn't want to mess the coating now. Can I installed that before the high flow cats?

Yes I will try to do some V bands. My C6 has V bands and no leaks.

I have some experience with working on cars as long as I have instructions. I have done suspension, timing belts, engine mounts installing the Catch can for this car was a paint in the rear too lol, fuel pump replacement. I think I have a large selection of tools I have collected over the years and recently got a quick lift. I can get over 24in of clearances. No repair manual thou.