Getting alignment done on my car tomorrow need some help

[Avrotholz]

So from what I understand the alignment can be adjusted by loosening the clevis bolts and adjusting by hand can somebody send a picture of the clevis bolts just so I can see exactly what I’m going to show them

[InFiD3ViL]

Originally Posted by SSammy

You remove the bolt once your desired camber is reached and spindle bolts are locked down, so it’s not a missing part, more like GM allowed us to use a simple bolt as a precise alignment tool. IMHO this is one of the better alignment setups for easily achieving a tight spec alignment.

Ahh ok, it doesn't stay in there - just for adjustments.

[SSammy]

Originally Posted by Avrotholz

So from what I understand the alignment can be adjusted by loosening the clevis bolts and adjusting by hand can somebody send a picture of the clevis bolts just so I can see exactly what I’m going to show them

In post #5 you can see one of the bolts sandwiching the strut to the knuckle just under the tapped adjustment hole. The other bolt is approx 4-5 inches below that one. Hope this helps. If the shop you are going to isn’t familiar with any of this, you may want to consider a shop that is.

[SSammy]

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

Ahh ok, it doesn't stay in there - just for adjustments.

Correct

[Avrotholz]

Originally Posted by SSammy

In post #5 you can see one of the bolts sandwiching the strut to the knuckle just under the tapped adjustment hole. The other bolt is approx 4-5 inches below that one. Hope this helps. If the shop you are going to isn’t familiar with any of this, you may want to consider a shop that is.

I have the lifetime alignment with firestone so I’m going to try to get it done there I’ll see how it goes

[cdb95z28]

If a shop has no idea how to adjust this camber, they're going to be clueless at the rear. Time to find a better shop.

[InFiD3ViL]

Originally Posted by Avrotholz

I have the lifetime alignment with firestone so I’m going to try to get it done there I’ll see how it goes

I have a similar one from Goodyear. Mine is 3 years unlimited. They got it exactly with the specs I brought in...well, kind of. The only thing ehy couldn't get spot on was the rear camber.

Because I lowered mine so much I could not get any better than -1.5º camber in the rear. So I have to order camber bolts to get another degree or so of room to get as close to 0º as possible. If you don't bring your own specs they will go by factory specs, but most places will allow you to use your own specs, within reason of course.

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

Because I lowered mine so much I could not get any better than -1.5º camber in the rear. So I have to order camber bolts to get another degree or so of room to get as close to 0º as possible. If you don't bring your own specs they will go by factory specs, but most places will allow you to use your own specs, within reason of course.

There's at least a chance that when they started to adjust camber that the toe adjuster was set in a location that would not allow as much camber adjustment as was needed/desired. Adjusting toe messes with camber and vice versa, so it is possible for one of those adjustments to be limited by the setting in the other.

This was explained a few years back in one or more posts by JusticePete and I think contained in "the Book". Worth a search.


Norm

[Rock-It Man]

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

There's at least a chance that when they started to adjust camber that the toe adjuster was set in a location that would not allow as much camber adjustment as was needed/desired. Adjusting toe messes with camber and vice versa, so it is possible for one of those adjustments to be limited by the setting in the other.

This was explained a few years back in one or more posts by JusticePete and I think contained in "the Book". Worth a search.


Norm

Per the shop manual, the front camber adjustment is done before the toe. The manual does not discuss using the threaded hole to adjust camber.

The rear camber is locked in using the eccentric washers on the lower control arm. One of these is under a bolt, the other is under a nut. The nut is single use, with pre-applied "micro encapsulated" thread sealant. So before starting, make sure your shop has these on hand. As with the front, the camber is done before the toe.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by Rock-It Man

Per the shop manual, the front camber adjustment is done before the toe. The manual does not discuss using the threaded hole to adjust camber.

The rear camber is locked in using the eccentric washers on the lower control arm. One of these is under a bolt, the other is under a nut. The nut is single use, with pre-applied "micro encapsulated" thread sealant. So before starting, make sure your shop has these on hand. As with the front, the camber is done before the toe.

It does mention using the threaded hole. I have the 2014 Camaro GM service manual. In the wheel alignment section, Front Camber Adjustment, with a picture,

-"Install the service only camber adjusting bolt (M10x1.5x40) into the threaded hole at the top of the knuckle and gentle (sic) tighten until it is snug against the strut body."

-"Loosen the strut to knuckle bolts"

-"Adjust the front camber to specifications using the camber adjusting bolt..."

-"Tighten the strut to knuckle nuts to 59lb/ft plus 180*"

-"Remove the service only camber adjusting bolt"


As mentioned, at the front, the toe is always adjusted after the camber. Any movement of front camber will change the toe. But not the other way around. You can move your toe and it won't change the camber.

BUT, at the rear, any movement of camber will move the toe and any movement of the toe will move the camber. To get the rear where you want is a delicate dance, but it can be made perfect. It takes patience and a gentle hand.

[Avrotholz]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

It does mention using the threaded hole. I have the 2014 Camaro GM service manual. In the wheel alignment section, Front Camber Adjustment, with a picture,

-"Install the service only camber adjusting bolt (M10x1.5x40) into the threaded hole at the top of the knuckle and gentle (sic) tighten until it is snug against the strut body."

-"Loosen the strut to knuckle bolts"

-"Adjust the front camber to specifications using the camber adjusting bolt..."

-"Tighten the strut to knuckle nuts to 59lb/ft plus 180*"

-"Remove the service only camber adjusting bolt"


As mentioned, at the front, the toe is always adjusted after the camber. Any movement of front camber will change the toe. But not the other way around. You can move your toe and it won't change the camber.

BUT, at the rear, any movement of camber will move the toe and any movement of the toe will move the camber. To get the rear where you want is a delicate dance, but it can be made perfect. It takes patience and a gentle hand.

After you install the camber bolt and loosen the strut knuckle bolts, do adjust the camber by tightening/loosening the bolt? Or do you adjust it by moving everything by hand?

[cdb95z28]

The natural tendency of the knuckle, when the two strut bolts are loose, is to move in toward the strut. And this is with the tire loaded, on the ground. There is a chance the knuckle will need some persuasion to move but I haven’t had an issue.

The best bet is to remove the wheel, install the adjuster bolt, but do not tighten too much when it contacts the strut, just snug. Loosen the two strut bolts. Then reinstall the wheel, leave car off jack. You want the car to sit at ride height to get to your camber numbers.

If the car is on the alignment rack, a good tech can loosen the strut bolts while the car is at ride height with the wheels still on.

Once at ride height and the alignment machine is setup on the car all you do is loosen the adjuster (to add negative camber) or tighten to (remove negative camber). As long as the bottom of the adjuster bolt is in contact with the strut at all times there is no need to move anything by hand. The weight of the car keeps the adjuster bolt preloaded against the strut.

Once you have achieved your desired camber, tighten the two strut bolts. Again, a good tech can at the very least get a tight snug on them without having to Jack the car up (which loses the weight on the adjuster bolt). If he gets a very tight snug on it, he can be confident that the camber will stay were it should when he jacks the car up and removes the wheel to torque the strut bolts. Once torqued he then removes the adjuster bolt.
The strut bolts must be torqued !

There is enough room if working underneath the car from an alignment rack to loosen and tighten the strut bolts. I used a powerful 1/2” drive air impact with a swivel to loosen And tighten mine.

Also, each rotation of the adjuster bolt equals approximately .4 degree of Camber movement .

[cdb95z28]

A good tech will always confirm the results of his work.

[Avrotholz]

Thanks for all that info that’s exactly what I needed