[GAOLDGUY]

Dubchitts, thanks for this great write up! I hate to go off topic but would you mind providing how many miles are on your engine and if you are running an oil separator? I was looking at pictures 22 and 41 and your pistons look fabulous. I little bit of normal build up is visible in 15 but I would love to hear that you've put lots of miles on your engine with no separator. It seems that some indicate if you run your engine at idle for 20 minutes and don't have such a device the engine will lock up from crust on the back of the valves. Can you share your experience? NOT TRYING TO START A LONG THREAD ABOUT OIL SEPARATORS. I REALIZE THERE ARE MANY. Thanks again for this great documentation.

[JCunningham]

1 thing incorrect is post 20. you do not just torque them down. the rocker has to be on the base circle of the cam befor you torque the rocker down to 22lbft. PDF attached. you should delete post 20

[maxgee]

Just did cam swap with engine in the car. I am wondering if you guys replaced the fuel pipes? They seem to be hard to find and are on back order.
You think it's ok to reuse them? Car has 37k miles.

[Dubchitts]

Originally Posted by GAOLDGUY

Dubchitts, thanks for this great write up! I hate to go off topic but would you mind providing how many miles are on your engine and if you are running an oil separator? I was looking at pictures 22 and 41 and your pistons look fabulous. I little bit of normal build up is visible in 15 but I would love to hear that you've put lots of miles on your engine with no separator. It seems that some indicate if you run your engine at idle for 20 minutes and don't have such a device the engine will lock up from crust on the back of the valves. Can you share your experience? NOT TRYING TO START A LONG THREAD ABOUT OIL SEPARATORS. I REALIZE THERE ARE MANY. Thanks again for this great documentation.

At the time of swap I think I had 8k. I'd have to look at my records. I've had a standard elite engineering can since 700 and the reason 15 looks normal, is that it is. I got bored waiting for gaskets or something and cleaned the tops of the Pistons and then the side of the block etc

[Dubchitts]

Originally Posted by maxgee

Just did cam swap with engine in the car. I am wondering if you guys replaced the fuel pipes? They seem to be hard to find and are on back order.
You think it's ok to reuse them? Car has 37k miles.

They say not to reuse them, but I did and Im sure I'm not the only one. 8k at the time and I put another 5 on it so far with no issue. I'd say try it and keep an eye on them if your comfortable with it. Just remember not to over tighten them

[parbreak]

I'm replacing all 3 of mine (low side inlet, high side outlet and crossover) just for a HPFP and injector install. Main reason is I wanted to get all LT4 lines, but a little piece of mind for not reusing is worth a few $ to me. Guess I'll replace them again when we do the cam, LOL!

[Dubchitts]

Originally Posted by parbreak

I'm replacing all 3 of mine (low side inlet, high side outlet and crossover) just for a HPFP and injector install. Main reason is I wanted to get all LT4 lines, but a little piece of mind for not reusing is worth a few $ to me. Guess I'll replace them again when we do the cam, LOL!

I won't fault you there. They were not available when I did mine lol. I had to full send and hope for the best

[DaggerMouth]

I just want to add something to this post as I used it as a guide from my own engine pulling. I did not originally plan on pulling the engine and because of this I think I found an easier way than the described post. Everything was the same up until dealing with the trans.

I removed my radiator and condenser because I planned on doing the install with the motor in the car. Because of this I was able to easily pull the motor forward without having to do any jacking to the transmission. I removed the engine mounts from the actual block instead of the mount attached to the cradle. This allowed the engine to slide forward and backward without any pivoting needed of the transmission.

In the last photo we used a wooden plank and bridged it from one cradle bolt to the other. We use the old head bolts as they were the correct threading as well as a wide enough space to provide room for the wood to brace the transmission and keep it from moving. This also allows us to roll the car even with the engine removed. This removed the need for a third person. During removal we supported this wood beam with a jack in the middle.

This saves you from having to unhook anything there and to remove anything except for the transmission cooler lines which will be messed with when you remove the radiator and the condenser. I personally think it is a lot easier to remove the radiator and condenser than to deal with the transmission in any way. Just thought I would add my two cents to anyone else looking at this guide in the future.



Good luck and hope this helps.

[h018871]

How did I miss this thread? Dubchitts, thx for putting this together and the others for the additional tips. Bookmarking this for the summer as I plan to swap the cam for a bigger fuel lobe.