[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by Ailurus2SS

After they tried recharging the battery they said it was reading fine and I put it back and the dash read about 13. Car still wouldn't start

This gets a bit tricky because you need to know the battery voltage under load. Batteries do not like being left in a discharged state for too long. They lose their capacity. I am a bit suspicious of a battery at 11.3 volts being completely recharged in 30 minutes.
A battery is considered completely discharged around 11.8 volts.
Did they load test the battery?
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/r/...-voltage-range

[supersportss]

Sounds like a bad starter solenoid or starter.

[Ailurus2SS]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

This gets a bit tricky because you need to know the battery voltage under load. Batteries do not like being left in a discharged state for too long. They lose their capacity. I am a bit suspicious of a battery at 11.3 volts being completely recharged in 30 minutes.
A battery is considered completely discharged around 11.8 volts.
Did they load test the battery?
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/r/...-voltage-range

My SCT device was the one reading 11.3V from the ignition voltage but the dash read about 12.5 V. It was the first mark that starts the gray area on the gauge. The one at the 10:00 position. Not sure which was more accurate for the actual battery capacity, the dash or the ignition voltage reading. I'm not sure what test they ran on the battery but they only ran it for about a minute.

I plan on getting the car on a flat bed and brought to one of my mechanics tomorrow to check the alternator.

When I had this same problem a month ago, the mechanic the car was brought to when it broke down put the battery that was in the car to charge for a couple hours and still wouldn't turn over but a new battery did the trick.

Now that new battery is having the same issue, could it be the aftermarket batteries? The first one was a duralast platinum (from AutoZone) and this current one, that replacement is an autocraft platinum (from advance auto parts). Both of them had the tag H6-AGM on them

[Ailurus2SS]

Originally Posted by supersportss

Sounds like a bad starter solenoid or starter.

My starter, starter solenoid, and battery cable were replaced last year when they fried from a heat soak issue. When I had the heat soak issue it was a slow crank or it wouldn't crank at all and you would just hear a click. Both of those issues are currently not happening so I know it shouldn't be them.

The car is cranking no problem but sounds like my car is out of gas which I'm assuming the PCM isn't activating the fuel pump since the U0109 code says it lost connection to it. But there's also codes for the ABS and BCM so it's not the fuel pump but something electrical wrong

[MrChrisLS3]

Originally Posted by Ailurus2SS

My starter, starter solenoid, and battery cable were replaced last year when they fried from a heat soak issue. When I had the heat soak issue it was a slow crank or it wouldn't crank at all and you would just hear a click. Both of those issues are currently not happening so I know it shouldn't be them.

The car is cranking no problem but sounds like my car is out of gas which I'm assuming the PCM isn't activating the fuel pump since the U0109 code says it lost connection to it. But there's also codes for the ABS and BCM so it's not the fuel pump but something electrical wrong

Sounds like there is an issue in the fuel delivery system. There are two fuel pumps in the car, the low pressure in the tank and the high pressure under the intake manifold. You may be able to figure out which one has lost connection by checking fuel pressure in the line behind the high pressure pump. If you have pressure then it's the HP pump, if not, them start at the pump in the tank. How to check that on this car, I'm not sure.

The "lost connection" could be that either the signal to activate the pump is not being sent, or that the pump is bad and the ECM cannot read it.

In a previous post you mentioned that the dealership was wanting to deny warranty coverage for the starter? Are you outside of the powertrain warranty for mileage, or do you have any type of modification, like a throttle controller, headers, tune, E85 tune? If none of this is true, then you have your warranty in tact. If you don't like the dealer you went to before, send it to another. I would suggest having the starter replacement and battery replacement paperwork handy in case there was any issue with craftmanship on those repairs.

The harness to and from the starter might be a good place to look. If you had heat soak issue before, there might be something in the connection, a loose wire, or a wire that found it's way too close to the exhaust. If it's the wire that sends the signal for fuel delivery, that would do it.

Bottom line, you have an issue with your fuel delivery system. Either a signal is not being sent to where it's supposed to go, or the signal is being received by a non-working part when it gets there.

[avalonandl]

Originally Posted by Ailurus2SS

After they tried recharging the battery they said it was reading fine and I put it back and the dash read about 13. Car still wouldn't start

Ok its cranking...

THe DI motors need cranking to build fuel pressure...

[TBAtilidk]

Originally Posted by Ailurus2SS

My starter, starter solenoid, and battery cable were replaced last year when they fried from a heat soak issue. When I had the heat soak issue it was a slow crank or it wouldn't crank at all and you would just hear a click. Both of those issues are currently not happening so I know it shouldn't be them.

The car is cranking no problem but sounds like my car is out of gas which I'm assuming the PCM isn't activating the fuel pump since the U0109 code says it lost connection to it. But there's also codes for the ABS and BCM so it's not the fuel pump but something electrical wrong

Sorry to hear about your issues.

I have a question related to your heat soak. I'm dealing with this issue on my 16 SS right now. It came, I replaced the battery and it went away for about 6-12 months. It came back and now it's turning over only when it has been sitting for at least an hour if not driven far. If it does not start up, I unplug the ground to the battery and let it sit for 15 mins and then it will start up, but just barely.

After you replaced the starter, battery cable, etc. did that fix your heat soak issues? Secondly, could this issue be a result of the heat soak somehow?

Love the camaro, but unfortunately the next few months are looking dim for this one.

[red_johnny]

Do you have anything aftermarket on the car? Like tail lights, amp, interior/exterior LEDs? Might have a slow drain that has now become worse. I did not experience the exact symptoms you were having but I did have a significant drain on my battery with my aftermarket tail lights. Fix was a new harness with built in resistor. Could be the issue here possibly

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by Ailurus2SS

I definitely had a bunch of other electrical codes. About 3 or 4 in total. They U109 was the one I remember off the top of my head but they were all U01XX. I remember one was for my transmission and another was for brakes I think.

These codes are too all-over-the-place. I would bet electrical before chasing down a fuel issue.

Starter solenoid is a fine idea. But really I would want to know load test on the battery before replacing that.

The thing is his battery is going dead. Either bad battery or parasitic load. Bad diode (failed short) kind of explains everything. With a shorted diode, you can have one of the alternator windings always getting battery power. It depends if the Camaro ignition switch does a full alternator disconnect.

[Ailurus2SS]

Originally Posted by TBAtilidk

Sorry to hear about your issues.

I have a question related to your heat soak. I'm dealing with this issue on my 16 SS right now. It came, I replaced the battery and it went away for about 6-12 months. It came back and now it's turning over only when it has been sitting for at least an hour if not driven far. If it does not start up, I unplug the ground to the battery and let it sit for 15 mins and then it will start up, but just barely.

After you replaced the starter, battery cable, etc. did that fix your heat soak issues? Secondly, could this issue be a result of the heat soak somehow?

Love the camaro, but unfortunately the next few months are looking dim for this one.

It's definitely not your battery, when I first had the issue my first guess was to replace the battery to no avail. First the start alone was replaced but the issue came back within a month. The second time they had a look they replaced the starter, starter solenoid, and the battery cable which fixed the problem permanently. Haven't had a slow crank since, knock on wood.

[Ailurus2SS]

Originally Posted by red_johnny

Do you have anything aftermarket on the car? Like tail lights, amp, interior/exterior LEDs? Might have a slow drain that has now become worse. I did not experience the exact symptoms you were having but I did have a significant drain on my battery with my aftermarket tail lights. Fix was a new harness with built in resistor. Could be the issue here possibly

My only electric mod is oracle lights but in the process of testing them I have left them on roughly 24 hrs till my battery was drained and with a quick jump the car was back to normal. The system remains off when the car is off but I forget every once and a while and even over night having them on I can start the car without a jump. They have a very miniscule drain on the battery and the 24 hr scenario was just a worst case test

[Ailurus2SS]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

These codes are too all-over-the-place. I would bet electrical before chasing down a fuel issue.

Starter solenoid is a fine idea. But really I would want to know load test on the battery before replacing that.

The thing is his battery is going dead. Either bad battery or parasitic load. Bad diode (failed short) kind of explains everything. With a shorted diode, you can have one of the alternator windings always getting battery power. It depends if the Camaro ignition switch does a full alternator disconnect.

I'm leaning towards electrical as well because of the other codes. When I replaced the battery last month all the codes went away. That quick fix wouldn't fix a fuel problem but likely will put a temporary fix on an alternator issue which Is my best guess right now.

The car is being towed today and should have alternator and battery test done tomorrow

[HDRDTD]

Another idea is, check and make SURE all your ground connections are good and tight both at the battery end and the engine/chassis grounds.

A bad/flaky ground can cause electrical issues even if the battery is fine.

A new battery just 'might' be strong enough to hide a bad ground.

Just a thought.

[ctrlz]

That U109 code for the fuel pump typically means a connection problem. Damaged connector or wiring. if you have real fuel issues, there are more serious codes for low pressure in the fuel rail, injectors, etc. Those typically lead to a flashing CEL and limp mode.
Taken with the other codes in this case, I think the U109 is a "confusion" issue.