[ZX-10R]

Bolt kits for those interested (ordered both)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/153471322011
https://www.ebay.com/itm/153640349826

[v8]

Hey, I don't want to offend you for providing that link but I would be careful with those bolts, the description says they are for LS engines and we have LT engines.

In the link for the supercharger bolts, the bolts are different from factory, they don't have washers like the factory bolts. In the link for the cover bolts you will be missing a few as the LT engine has the bolts with the built in threads for the wire clips at the front of the engine, this kit by the pictures is missing those bolts. Lastly, they are stainless steel and there are mixed opinions about using dissimilar metals. (Stainless steel in aluminum)

[Chris 2018 ZL1 A10]

Originally Posted by v8

Hey, I don't want to offend you for providing that link but I would be careful with those bolts, the description says they are for LS engines and we have LT engines.

In the link for the supercharger bolts, the bolts are different from factory, they don't have washers like the factory bolts. In the link for the cover bolts you will be missing a few as the LT engine has the bolts with the built in threads for the wire clips at the front of the engine, this kit by the pictures is missing those bolts. Lastly, they are stainless steel and there are mixed opinions about using dissimilar metals. (Stainless steel in aluminum)

Hi v8,

Thanks for making my decision easy.

Chris

[Chris 2018 ZL1 A10]

Originally Posted by v8

Hey, I don't want to offend you for providing that link but I would be careful with those bolts, the description says they are for LS engines and we have LT engines.

In the link for the supercharger bolts, the bolts are different from factory, they don't have washers like the factory bolts. In the link for the cover bolts you will be missing a few as the LT engine has the bolts with the built in threads for the wire clips at the front of the engine, this kit by the pictures is missing those bolts. Lastly, they are stainless steel and there are mixed opinions about using dissimilar metals. (Stainless steel in aluminum)

v8,

These bolts may be getting hard to find, did you reuse yours?

Thanks,
Chris

[Biscuit.fr]

Originally Posted by v8

Hey, I don't want to offend you for providing that link but I would be careful with those bolts, the description says they are for LS engines and we have LT engines.

In the link for the supercharger bolts, the bolts are different from factory, they don't have washers like the factory bolts. In the link for the cover bolts you will be missing a few as the LT engine has the bolts with the built in threads for the wire clips at the front of the engine, this kit by the pictures is missing those bolts. Lastly, they are stainless steel and there are mixed opinions about using dissimilar metals. (Stainless steel in aluminum)

They are stronger than the OEM
Reuse the old washers
And with the good torque it will work ;-)
Just reuse the ones with the wire

I reuse OEM twice before switching to those ones
No issues

[v8]

I did re-use mine, and there are mixed opinions on that. The cover bolts have never been an issue for anyone as far as I know. A few people have snapped their supercharger bolts, but I think thats (and this is my opinion only) that they overtightened them by not using a torque wrench. I used a torque wrench on mine.

Normally when you have Torque to Yield (TTY) bolts, they have a value plus a degree of turning, like 40ft/lbs +90 degrees. A lot of VW's use this, and even GM used this on some engines, and you can actually feel them stretching. On VW suspension I did recently, once I hit the torque value, I went the extra # of degrees and the bolt didn't feel like it was getting any tighter, it was stretching.

I don't think these bolts are TTY, but I think they may be suspect in quality for overuse, or maybe people don't inspect the threads or whatever, so its just easier for GM to say get new ones. They seem to be doing this more, and maybe its because they know with new bolts you will have good clean threads, I don't know. I inspected all of mine and they were good. If you see sharp threads its a sign they are deforming, so again, maybe its just easier, and safer to get new ones????

If you want the safest opinion, I would say to re-use the cover bolts, and all the gaskets (if your vehicle is low mileage) , and buy new supercharger bolts. Someone said there was a whole kit from GM earlier for a cheaper price, (can't remember what post) If this is the case then you can just get the kit if you want, but I didn't get new bolts after I inspected mine. Please keep in mind I'm a licensed mechanic, so I have done a lot of car work and have seen a lot of bolts LOL

As far as Elite Engineering goes for your system, I think they have one of the best catch cans on the market, and would say you can't go wrong getting one. I used their original E1???? Can on on an SS Camaro years ago, and it's now modified to fit on my daily driver (Toyota Tacoma) and I provided a video on that.

I think a small number of the people on this forum took my CC install video the wrong way. I was not trying to sell a catch can to anyone as I'm not in that business. What I was trying to do is show how I hooked mine up and the benefit I think it provides. You could hook up any catch can this way. Some people did not like the look of the line from the throttle body, but it wasn't about that, you could make it however you want, and I was not telling anyone to do that, that's just how I did it.

Anyone can use my video to install any catch can, and just watch the "lifting of the blower" part if they are unsure of how to lift the blower, as that is pretty much required no matter what can you install. I do not think there is a better video out there showing how to lift the blower in detail. If you think there is, please provide me with the link so I can make the next one better

I going to do my best to conduct more scientific tests to see if there is any concrete evidence in placement of the restrictor, and I may reach out to Elite to see if they have any flow figures, as that is pretty much the only difference. This will take some time, as I have other projects on the go......

Also the catch can I used in my video was made by a company called APEX (which I do not believe sells them anymore - they may have had issues with Elite due to patent infringement). It is an excellent design that I believe is very similar design to the Elite Engineering. It is so well made that it does not need a O-ring to seal. The mating surfaces are so well machined it seals with very little torque to tighten, and I have used it since 2013 (I think that was the year I bought it). I used it on my 5th Gen ZL1, my Hellcat, and now my Z06. I did not go over the catch can design in detail in my video, as I don't think anyone can buy it so it would be a moot point to talk about it.

I think Elite is offering you a great opportunity to go out there and have them do the install for you.

On a personal note, on this forum you will find some people are more passionate that others, some care about keeping things stock, and others not so much. Everyone is right in their own way. I can tell you are very cautious and careful about what you do, as I see the effort you are putting in for research.

If you can tell by my posts, I really could care less about what's easiest, I'm all about what's best, and "cost of products" is low on my priorities as, as I don't mind paying up, as long as I'm getting the best, and I want to understand exactly what I'm doing to my very expensive car, before I do it.

If you have any questions please let me know.

[v8]

Originally Posted by Biscuit.fr

They are stronger than the OEM
Reuse the old washers
And with the good torque it will work ;-)
Just reuse the ones with the wire

I reuse OEM twice before switching to those ones
No issues

If you ordered them and actually used them then you are right, those stainless bolts are slightly stronger than an un-hardened (grade 2) steel (which it what I think the supercharger bolts are made from)

Important to know that A2 stainless is significantly weaker than hardened steel fasteners. So not good for all applications, but in this application I think you are right. Just make sure to thread in my hand as stainless can cause galling.

[ZX-10R]

Originally Posted by v8

In the link for the supercharger bolts, the bolts are different from factory, they don't have washers like the factory bolts. Lastly, they are stainless steel and there are mixed opinions about using dissimilar metals. (Stainless steel in aluminum)

Not worried about stainless in aluminum because I use anti-seize (which should always be used threading into aluminum). As far as the length of the bolts, I'll check with the seller (can always return them)

[v8]

Thanks for the update,

only thing to think about is the GM ones have loctite on them, its blue so probably something similar to the 242. I'm sure they would be fine with anti-seize though. If they work out they are a really good deal for that price!!!!

[Elite Engineering]

v8

Excellent post. Reusing these bolts on hundreds of installs and never an issue over the years. But we would never reuse a head, rod, main bolt as they are true torque to yield. These MUST be evenly tightened in a criss cross pattern gradually bringing all down evenly, and do NOT over tighten. The O ring gaskets can be reused many times without issue as long as they do not come out of place.


On our family of catchcans and air/oil separating systems, our original base can was designed years before GDI engines, and with the technology used at the time, was one of the best functioning when compared with most small billet cans, and is a good affordable solution for mild bolt on's and daily driven port injection engines such as the LS.


Our E2 has undergone several updates over the years, starting out as a dual outlet/valve option for forced induction applications and our first start at a proper solution for GDI applications as unlike the port injection engines, cannot tolerate any oil ingestion, so we extended the size as well and as we worked for several years with Automotive Engineers and one of the Worlds most respected Lubrication Labs, we introduced the E2-X line, and they were and continue to be the most effective systems on the market period, and we stand by the challenge tests. Put ANY catchcan on an engine first in line, and our E2-X in series AFTER the first can and it will catch as much or more than the first can AFTER the first has done it's best. Then drain and document and clean each and reverse the order so we are first, any other can second. Only droplets get past ours. This is a Patented design that to date is unequaled, and we have systems for 1000 HP plus FI applications.


Flow from an average V8 sized crankcase should be app. 3.5 CFM to be able to properly flush and remove the combustion byproducts that cause most wear and damage over time. Our E2-X systems do just that. And they do such a good job oil remains cleaner far longer as we remove much of these before they can settle and mix with the engine oil. As we pull full time suction on the crankcase, pressure and seal failures are not possible unless there is a failure in the piston/ring/cylinder wall seal.


Email us direct at: Tech@EliteEngineeringUSA for ANY guidance and technical questions, and v8, email us direct and want to discuss some testing if your willing.


Cheers!


www.EliteEngineeringUSA.com

[v8]

Elite Engineering,

Thanks very much for your post, it is much appreciated as I do have some technical questions and want to do some actual "real life" testing.

Thanks very much

V8

[ZX-10R]

Originally Posted by v8

You don't have to do what I did, the reason I had a more complex line was because I did not want the restrictor under the blower.

So more oil can be vented correct? What size restrictor did you use and where did you get it?

[kwav8r]

Originally Posted by kwav8r

Does anyone have the part number for the Brake Booster Hose Assembly you have to cut for the Elite Catch Can install, I had it at one time but i'll be damned if i can find it now.

Thanks in advance

Part number for the Brake Booster Vacuum line is:
23377187

It's the one that you have to splice the T-into for the E2-X Catch Can install.

[v8]

Originally Posted by ZX-10R

So more oil can be vented correct? What size restrictor did you use and where did you get it?

Sorry for the late reply,

Restrictor is 1/8" that is the same size as factory PCV, I got the restrictor from Elite Engineering

You don't want to vent anything if possible. The system should run in closed loop, the vent on min e is only for emergency if by some chance there is not enough vacuum provided by the engine.