[glamcem]

Originally Posted by seanblurr

I wouldn't run that set up on your ZLE. You need more tire than a 10's wheel can offer.

I'm currently using 18's with 315/30/18's all around, Nankang AR-1. The tires are GREAT, but the size isn't perfect. Car is definitely a bit looser now, needs more rear tire.

I've run 315/335/30/18's Nitto NT01's and they were HORRIBLE on this heavy of a car. Absolute shit. I gave them away after a day. 4 seconds off the pace of the stock G3R.

I've run 305/315/680/18 Pirrieli DH slick take-offs and they were ok. I'm not a huge fan of using slicks at track day events for a few reasons. I'd consider using a 305/325 660.

I've used multiple sets of stock G3R's, a set of 19" Hoosier R7's, and a set of 19" DH slicks. The point is I have tried a lot of tires and I haven't really found one that is a better overall package to the stock G3R's.

The car's electronics don't like square tires. I've had e-diff and TC/Stabilitrac issues. It'll work ok if you are comfortable running with everything off.

I've thought about trying a 305/345/35/18, but it is about a 4% split (stock is 1.6%) and the rear tire would be almost an inch taller than the factory 325/30/19.

It sucks to hear that you have some electronic issues with SQ setup Sean and very interesting too as I also ran SQ setup (305/30/19) with no issues ..well other than the car's balance sucked but that's whole another story.

Did you have the same issue with the Nankangs? As we discussed earlier you may try 315/30/18 and 345/30/19 that way the gap between front and rear would be much closer (still not sure if it's within the split percentage you are expecting)

If 315s worked with no issues (other than the loose feel) you may also be interested in these. I will try running these after my RRs, I have two sets of RRs now but would like to try them too so maybe before the second set I can get some 315/30/18 Hankook Z214s (mid compound). NASA list them with the R7s, R1s with the same point system on their guidelines. I know they're neck to neck with R7s maybe R7s are still slightly faster a little bit but Z214s typically outlast the R7s, not sure whether or not it would be the same on a ZLE

https://hankookmotorsports.com/produ...z214-dot-tire/

[TheRealJA105]

Originally Posted by glamcem

I also think anything narrower than 11" in the back would be a downgrade all things equal (meaning similar compounds, definitely not comparing to slicks to OEM tires as there are so many other factors that may play a role)

I recently have my tires mounted and balanced on my Apex SM 10 wheels 18x10" front and 18x11" rear with (295/30/18 F and 315/30/18 R) As you may see from the photos they don't look like balloony even though 18" tires have more sidewalls and they're 10mm wider tires on the same wheel width (compared to 285/305 on OEM wheels). Ideally I would love to see some 18x10.5" and 18x11.5" custom fitment for my SS 1LE to run 295/315 or 315 SQ but oh well...besides since I don't have the Multimatics, even after grinding the knuckles (with my previous 1LE) 18x10.5 +14mm wheels were slightly rubbing with -3.0 camber

Your 18s only have 3mm more sidewall because they are 10mm wider. A 285/30 is a 285/30 whether it's 18", 19", or 20".
I like your idea for future wheels though.

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by TheRealJA105

Your 18s only have 3mm more sidewall because they are 10mm wider. A 285/30 is a 285/30 whether it's 18", 19", or 20".
I like your idea for future wheels though.

Thanks !
And yes, normally we would only expect to see 3mm (30% of 10mm) and this can be said for same brand and model tires. However, as RRs typically run wider on the same "measured rim width", I wouldn't be surprised if they had slightly more sidewall profile than 3mm because of the wider tread width (not by much of course)

[TheRealJA105]

Originally Posted by glamcem

Thanks !
And yes, normally we would only expect to see 3mm (30% of 10mm) and this can be said for same brand and model tires. However, as RRs typically run wider on the same "measured rim width", I wouldn't be surprised if they had slightly more sidewall profile than 3mm because of the wider tread width (not by much of course)

Gotcha. I knew you were smart enough to know that, but I was thinking maybe your tires were 35s, you typoed, and that's why there was more sidewall. Not the case though

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by TheRealJA105

Gotcha. I knew you were smart enough to know that, but I was thinking maybe your tires were 35s, you typoed, and that's why there was more sidewall. Not the case though

[seanblurr]

Originally Posted by glamcem

It sucks to hear that you have some electronic issues with SQ setup Sean and very interesting too as I also ran SQ setup (305/30/19) with no issues ..well other than the car's balance sucked but that's whole another story.

Did you have the same issue with the Nankangs? As we discussed earlier you may try 315/30/18 and 345/30/19 that way the gap between front and rear would be much closer (still not sure if it's within the split percentage you are expecting)

If 315s worked with no issues (other than the loose feel) you may also be interested in these. I will try running these after my RRs, I have two sets of RRs now but would like to try them too so maybe before the second set I can get some 315/30/18 Hankook Z214s (mid compound). NASA list them with the R7s, R1s with the same point system on their guidelines. I know they're neck to neck with R7s maybe R7s are still slightly faster a little bit but Z214s typically outlast the R7s, not sure whether or not it would be the same on a ZLE

https://hankookmotorsports.com/produ...z214-dot-tire/

Electronic issues were not present at this last event, you just can not use any form of PTM, it has to be full nannies off. If you try to use nannies, the car trips out and it engages TC far too easily.

With that said, the car was drastically loose with 315 square on corner exit. It was a challenge getting the power down on the ZLE. I was 2 seconds slower on 315 Nankang AR1's compared to stock G3R's and it was a handful to drive.

I suppose it could be my right foot, or the tires were used from last season, but it was drastic. I wasn't confident with the car like I usually am. I will swap the tires front to back, perhaps raise the front a little bit and give it another go in two weeks. That will be the end of the tires and I will figure out which tires to go with after that.

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by seanblurr

Electronic issues were not present at this last event, you just can not use any form of PTM, it has to be full nannies off. If you try to use nannies, the car trips out and it engages TC far too easily.

For clarification, you can still drive around like normal on the street with same-diameter tires front and rear, even with nannies engaged? It's only an issue when you start to push the grip limits at an even, right? So IOW, driving to an event on such a setup doesn't require nannies to be off?

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by seanblurr

Electronic issues were not present at this last event, you just can not use any form of PTM, it has to be full nannies off. If you try to use nannies, the car trips out and it engages TC far too easily.

With that said, the car was drastically loose with 315 square on corner exit. It was a challenge getting the power down on the ZLE. I was 2 seconds slower on 315 Nankang AR1's compared to stock G3R's and it was a handful to drive.

I suppose it could be my right foot, or the tires were used from last season, but it was drastic. I wasn't confident with the car like I usually am. I will swap the tires front to back, perhaps raise the front a little bit and give it another go in two weeks. That will be the end of the tires and I will figure out which tires to go with after that.

Since I also drove with nannies off, that should be the reason why I never experienced it once.

Like you said, you probably need more tires in the back if you are having hard time putting the power down at the corner exit. If it's corner entry and you feel like front now has too much grip (almost non-existent understeer), I would play with the rear sway and maybe soften a bit to see how it feels.

If you also drive nannies off and that wouldn't trigger anything, you may wanna try 315/345-30-18 RRs (or 345/30/19 whichever di close to OEM proportions) .. that's assuming you don't have rubbing issues in the rear with 345s

How was the R7 setup? How much was it faster compared to G3Rs?

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by glamcem

I also think anything narrower than 11" in the back would be a downgrade all things equal (meaning similar compounds, definitely not comparing to slicks to OEM tires as there are so many other factors that may play a role)

I recently have my tires mounted and balanced on my Apex SM 10 wheels 18x10" front and 18x11" rear with (295/30/18 F and 315/30/18 R) As you may see from the photos they don't look like balloony even though 18" tires have more sidewalls and they're 10mm wider tires on the same wheel width (compared to 285/305 on OEM wheels). Ideally I would love to see some 18x10.5" and 18x11.5" custom fitment for my SS 1LE to run 295/315 or 315 SQ but oh well...besides since I don't have the Multimatics, even after grinding the knuckles (with my previous 1LE) 18x10.5 +14mm wheels were slightly rubbing with -3.0 camber

This is how they look. I will be testing them on March 23rd:

Hey Cem, what ET are those rims and do you expect to just do the grinding mod or also use a spacer? Or will they be a bolt on?
I suppose the gearing will be quite a bit shorter with these? Any experience running such short tires on your previous 1le? Thx!

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Hey Cem, what ET are those rims and do you expect to just do the grinding mod or also use a spacer? Or will they be a bolt on?
I suppose the gearing will be quite a bit shorter with these? Any experience running such short tires on your previous 1le? Thx!

18x10" +25 F (w/5mm spacer) and 18x11" +44 R. I will have my mechanic do both knuckle grinding and hole extending for extra camber up front.

Yes the gearing should be very different 25" F and 25.5" R (vs 26.7" and 27.2" OEM diameters) . I had 19" wheels and with 295" they were pretty short not as much as this but I also welcome the shorter gears especially on uphills sections and tight turns at the ORP ..car becomes alive IMO


I was about to do some work (brake fluid flush, race pads, C7 flares..etc) then I will install them and take some photos. My appointment is scheduled for this Sunday. Will keep you posted

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by glamcem

18x10" +25 F (w/5mm spacer) and 18x11" +44 R. I will have my mechanic do both knuckle grinding and hole extending for extra camber up front.

Yes the gearing should be very different 25" F and 25.5" R (vs 26.7" and 27.2" OEM diameters) . I had 19" wheels and with 295" they were pretty short not as much as this but I also welcome the shorter gears especially on uphills sections and tight turns at the ORP ..car becomes alive IMO


I was about to do some work (brake fluid flush, race pads, C7 flares..etc) then I will install them and take some photos. My appointment is scheduled for this Sunday. Will keep you posted

Super! Do post some pix pls!

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Super! Do post some pix pls!

As promised (take a look at my build thread for more info..specs, weight etc)

[TrackClub]

She's lookin' great Cem!!! How's the lower gearing feel thus far? Btw i assume you are well aware of the special mounting reqs for the RRs to prevent treat splitting, eh?
Albeit they seem to go regardless at times, or so it seems from some blogs (on heavier cars)? Any feedback on that? Cheers!

[seanblurr]

Keep me posted on what your data looks like when it comes to set up. Very curious about tire pressures with the RR's on this heavy of a car. I'm really tempted to try these. Might even risk the 305/35, 345/35.