[Alpha1BC]

Originally Posted by raidaru

They weren't switched. I topped the fluid tank, opened bleeder screw and put a hose on it. After the few 1st pedalst level droped @ 1cm in the fluid tank, and that was all. I could also see 1-2 cm fluid in the hose but stuck there, even pushing 100 more times after that no more fluid came out of the bleeder and no fluid was sucked in from the tank.

Sounds like you still have some air trapped in the master cylinder if fluid isn't moving. You could try making sure the pedal is pulled all the way up and waiting for 5-10 seconds before each pump for starters. If that doesn't work, you could try a pressure bleeder like the motive one mentioned above to get the master cylinder to a state where it's moving fluid properly again. I wouldn't do anything like that video you linked, you only want fresh fluid put into the reservoir. Any debris that's in the system or in the return hose or picked up from the outside if the bleed valve on the caliper is going to be recycled through the brake system and potentially cause damage and/or premature failures.

Even with those or any other method, there's still a good chance that you'll need to bench bleed the master cylinder. Due to how it's tilted in the vehicle, it's entirely possible for air to be trapped in the MC that can't be pushed out just by moving fluid through it with pressure or brake pedal pumping, and IMO it'd be easier to take it out and bleed it now rather than going through the trouble of bleeding each corner and the ABS unit only to have to take the master cylinder off, do the bench bleed, and then bleed the rest of the system again if air ends up stuck in the MC. You might get lucky and be able to push it out of the system with a normal bleed, but wanted you to be aware that there's a good chance you'll have to do a bench bleed either way.

As for the ABS module, if you don't have a tool that can do the automated bleeding process, you can bleed the system as much as you can, drive to a gravel road or somewhere you can easily activate ABS at slower speeds, do a couple of ABS stops, and then bleed again. Might have to repeat the bleed/drive/bleed cycle a few times to get all the air out, but it's probably the easiest way to do it without having the right scan tool. Just make sure you don't have a lot of speed when you activate ABS. You won't want to be going fast then push a bunch of air into the system that makes the brakes weak at high speed.

Also, if you're planning to more brake work on cars in the future, I'd suggest picking up a brake line plug kit. Can pick up a kit with a bunch of rubber plugs for a little more than $10, and they've saved me lots of times from unintentionally draining the brake system when I get caught unable to put a caliper or brake line on right away.

[carguy55]

If the master cylinder was drained empty (or bench bleed), than you may have to do a master cylinder port bleeding. This is just a maybe!

From the Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Manual)

Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir is full to the maximum-fill level. If necessary, add brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.

3.2 If removal of the reservoir cap and diaphragm is necessary, clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the cap prior to removal.

3.3 With the rear brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, loosen and separate the front brake pipe from the front port of the brake master cylinder.

3.4 Allow a small amount of brake fluid to gravity bleed from the open port of the master cylinder.

3.5 Reconnect the brake pipe to the master cylinder port and tighten securely.

3.6 Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.

3.7 Loosen the same brake pipe to purge air from the open port of the master cylinder.

3.8 Tighten the brake pipe, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.

3.9 Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 3.3–3.7 until all air is purged from the same port of the master cylinder.

3.10 With the front brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, after all air has been purged from the front port of the master cylinder, loosen and separate the rear brake pipe from the master cylinder, then repeat steps 3.3–3.8.

3.11 After completing the final master cylinder port bleeding procedure, ensure that both of the brake pipe-to-master cylinder fittings are properly tightened.

4. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir remains at least half-full during this bleeding procedure. Add fluid as needed to maintain the proper level.

From the manual but shortened by me:

Wait 15 seconds, then repeat until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit after each bleed.

Bleed in this order:
RR inner
RR outer
LF inner
LF outer
LR inner
LR outer
RF inner
RF outer

[motorhead]

Originally Posted by raidaru

They weren't switched. I topped the fluid tank, opened bleeder screw and put a hose on it. After the few 1st pedalst level droped @ 1cm in the fluid tank, and that was all. I could also see 1-2 cm fluid in the hose but stuck there, even pushing 100 more times after that no more fluid came out of the bleeder and no fluid was sucked in from the tank.

You put a hose on the bleeder. Was the opposite end of said hose submerged in a bottle of brake fluid or left open to air while you were pumping. Not trying to insult your abilities, just trying to figure out exactly how you are going about it.

[raidaru]

Originally Posted by motorhead

You put a hose on the bleeder. Was the opposite end of said hose submerged in a bottle of brake fluid or left open to air while you were pumping. Not trying to insult your abilities, just trying to figure out exactly how you are going about it.

I tried both ways, same result, MC won't suck in any fluid. I also tried with a scan tool, still no results. I think that If I will use a motive power bleeder and use the scanner to open the abs valves at the same time it must work. I've gotta order a motive power bleeder

[motorhead]

Originally Posted by raidaru

I tried both ways, same result, MC won't suck in any fluid. I also tried with a scan tool, still no results. I think that If I will use a motive power bleeder and use the scanner to open the abs valves at the same time it must work. I've gotta order a motive power bleeder

Good luck to you. It does sound like you may have air in the ABS module. Those can be a real bitch.

[raidaru]

All right, in the end I managed to bleed my system with a Motive power bleeder, and a scan tool with the brake bleeding function, however sth was not right. 1st thing is that it started to leak brake fluid , saw brake fluid traces on the front subframe but I was to lazy to further investigate. I pumped 15 psi in the power bleeder, maybe that was to much. 2nd, during the process the abs module started to make two types of crazy noises, idk why, but whatever. Now the pedal is firm, with engine off it's hard like steel, and with engine running it's softer but it prooly holds the pressure as it doesn t go all the way down, had yet to test drive.