[Standard]

I've watched every video and read near every post; but it seems there isn't some huge consensus.

I'm looking for *a* plan. I was originally thinking of putting on those red lift points on the rear and front-front, which looks good for shops with lifts; but may not work with other means where the lift points may add risk.

I've also found the mention of the side pinch welds being the optimal lift points (given the car's frame or lack thereof) compelling.

Side question: When jacking from the center (front middle-ward) pinch weld, on one side, does the car tend to raise 2 side wheels?

I want critique of these plans, or at least ideas based around them. I'm not running out to do either.

1. Jacking up just the front and putting on jackstands
Jack pad or something used in the 'front center-ward' lift points, lift both sides together from jacks pushing against the center, put rubberjack-stands-with-rubber under the frontmost lift points on both sides with rubber on them.


2. Jacking up all 4 - Jack pad or something used under lift center lift points, jack up one side at a time and on each side one at a time, putting jack-stands-with-rubber under naked frontmost and rear pinch welds.


I'd love a video of someone doing something to get safely onto jackstands - and/or just advice on going through the motions to do it. I'm not rushing into this, it seems complicated.

Here are some of the tools mentioned above.

[CalgaryZL1]

The car is so rigid that when you jack from the middle forward lift point the whole, one side of the car will lift up. then you can put jackstands under the two outer most pinch welds and go to the other side and repeat. It’s safest to go back-and-forth to get your final lift height instead of trying to get one side up right away.

[Standard]

Originally Posted by CalgaryZL1

The car is so rigid that when you jack from the middle forward lift point the whole, one side of the car will lift up. then you can put jackstands under the two outer most pinch welds and go to the other side and repeat. It’s safest to go back-and-forth to get your final lift height instead of trying to get one side up right away.

I just got my ZL1 mag pads with fitting puck (3” and a 2” I may want to use elsewhere). Aye the fitted pucks get it enough clearance that my 5” saddle Daytona cleared the side skirt with plenty of room to spare. I chocked the left side and raised the right just enough to get the wheels clear. Thanks you were right - the side weld area is stiff and fairly balanced

I’m guessing too that jacking both sides at once gets the front up instead.

There is some plastic in the center jack area gap that prevents you using its whole range. I think it was rearward. This still left about 4” to lift from though but a detailed guide should probably warn about it.

I’ve read and watched all manner of material on this. I think the lift-pads may have been a red herring - it’s tricky to use them heavily without risking pad-on-jackstand slippage. They are probably gold for people with their own lifts.

Wish there was a central manifesto on this stuff for we the nervous. I’m not qualified to write one but may do some “hey this way can get you by” thing with pictures.

[Kamero6]

I have those and they work. Issue is to actually put the jack stand after.
For the rear I use the jack in the beam next to the diff.
In the front you might have to use 2 jack pads or lift it from the frame with some pieces of wood.

I wouldn't install those ZL1 jack pads permanently. If they fall off they will go directly into the wheels and you might destroy the tires.

[Chutzpah]

The red jack pads are fine to leave attached… just use a little thread lock.

I use a piece of 3/8 rubber cut to the size of a low profile jack cup. That stops slippage.

I plan on using some bed liner for another project, I may brush a heavy coat on the underside of jack pads while I have it out.

[Standard]

Originally Posted by Chutzpah

The red jack pads are fine to leave attached… just use a little thread lock.

I use a piece of 3/8 rubber cut to the size of a low profile jack cup. That stops slippage.

I plan on using some bed liner for another project, I may brush a heavy coat on the underside of jack pads while I have it out.

Those flat-top (round rubber discs at top) stands I've seen in other posts may be the tool to put under the cups.

(Hopefully I'm attaching properly) I've put the pic of a typical-ish 3-ton jackstand, rubber pads for top of said jackstands, and some aluminum lift-pads. Wondering from your experience what combinations of them, where, could be of us.

I was thinking of putting the stands under the front and back pinch-welds with the rubber on them. *If* it were safe, putting them in some fashion under lift-pads would probably get more clearance of side skirts, though I don't think I'd need it. . . . .

[Chutzpah]

There’s a ton of information out there on this subject…I personally do not fully jack up my car (all four wheels off ground). One side of the car, no problem.. but not the whole car.

https://www.google.com/search?client...718&dpr=2#ip=1

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

I use the same parts you have shown about a dozen times with no issue, but NOT as you might think... i would NEVER put the jack stand directly under the pucks. The pucks are used for your jack... not jack stands... I use the same rubber jack stand pinch weld covers, on all 4 corners... as close to the front as you can go, and for the back, in the same area as the lower cradle brace. The PUCK is set about 12" back from the front jack stand location, so the two dont interfere. Although it is not centered, it will lift both front and back easily. When lifting, I go back and forth in approx. 4" increments. I start with some 4x4's on the first side, then start with the jack stands on the lowest setting on the opposite.... then back and forth approx. 4" at a time. NOTE: Make sure your wheel are clear and straight on your jack to allow it to move laterally, if you dont, you could rock the car off the stands... If you'd like more info, feel free to PM, and we can jump on a call.

[Standard]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

I use the same parts you have shown about a dozen times with no issue, but NOT as you might think... i would NEVER put the jack stand directly under the pucks. The pucks are used for your jack... not jack stands... I use the same rubber jack stand pinch weld covers, on all 4 corners... as close to the front as you can go, and for the back, in the same area as the lower cradle brace. The PUCK is set about 12" back from the front jack stand location, so the two dont interfere. Although it is not centered, it will lift both front and back easily. When lifting, I go back and forth in approx. 4" increments. I start with some 4x4's on the first side, then start with the jack stands on the lowest setting on the opposite.... then back and forth approx. 4" at a time. NOTE: Make sure your wheel are clear and straight on your jack to allow it to move laterally, if you dont, you could rock the car off the stands... If you'd like more info, feel free to PM, and we can jump on a call.

I wasn't talking about Jackstands under the pucks; but under the lift-pads (though, questioning that it could be dangerous).

What I'd like to know from you, in the back

1. Would it be acceptable too to you to use jackstand+pinch-weld-covers at the back pinch weld gap?
2. Do you have a pic of the lower cradle brace? Or perhaps you mean at this point in the video - the spot right at the bolt he shows? https://youtu.be/NX_Qf9wSwos?t=694
3. Half-lifting one side before jackstands on the other - is this just an extra precaution? Or is the chance of pulling the other side so extreme? (I realize you touched on this with the 'keep the wheels rolling at 90 degrees to the car' comment.

I have no problem with talking privately, though others searching for info on safety would also benefit from seeing it here.

[clyde]

This is what I do...

Jack from the aft-forward pinch weld location. Jackstands at the forward-forward and fully aft (by rear wheel well) location on one side. I'm super slow and attentive when lowering it onto the stands. Then, even slower and more attentive when raising the other side watching for any signs of movement/slippage of the stands on the first side. Lots of care lowering the second side. Once on stands, a bunch of pushes on all four corners before I remove wheels or consider getting under the car.

I've been using these instead of the permanent jackpads like you have in the first pic. Life would be simpler (especially when it comes to remembering to remove the puck when I'm done), but having the two red spots makes it a bit confusing if it has to go on a lift and I'm not there to tell them what's what.

[Evoq007]

With the jack pucks you linked.. what do you use as the interface between the jackstand and the pinch weld?

Originally Posted by clyde

This is what I do...

Jack from the aft-forward pinch weld location. Jackstands at the forward-forward and fully aft (by rear wheel well) location on one side. I'm super slow and attentive when lowering it onto the stands. Then, even slower and more attentive when raising the other side watching for any signs of movement/slippage of the stands on the first side. Lots of care lowering the second side. Once on stands, a bunch of pushes on all four corners before I remove wheels or consider getting under the car.

I've been using these instead of the permanent jackpads like you have in the first pic. Life would be simpler (especially when it comes to remembering to remove the puck when I'm done), but having the two red spots makes it a bit confusing if it has to go on a lift and I'm not there to tell them what's what.

[clyde]

Originally Posted by Evoq007

With the jack pucks you linked.. what do you use as the interface between the jackstand and the pinch weld?

Pinch welds directly on the jackstands. I've overthought enough things.

[Standard]

I've done some work under the car now one time and am thus the resident expert

Serious though, I think (barring having a *lift*) the lift-pads are not the right tool to put on the front-most or rearmost pinch weld, and for the center pinch weld the *Jack Magpad with Puck" is divine.

I think with or without having rubber pinch adapters on standard jackstands, in the *forward* position you have to nuance getting the wide jackstand top inside the side skirt gap, i.e. you can't come at it from directly below without damaging. This has ramifications if you're raising one side at a time incrementally, you have to nurse the front jackstand in case you're lifting enough to make it want to come out through the gap, then have to go back up. This doesn't seem to be the same problem at the rear.

And look very closely under the car with a phone or mirror, not all of the pinch weld gap anywhere is actually available, there's plastic crowding it. There's enough room for jackstand or Jack-magpad if you pay attention.

[JSH]

I don't know what you're asking, but ZL1 Addons Billet Lift Pads work perfectly on mine when lifting one wheel at a time.