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Old 02-16-2020, 03:47 AM   #29
MakCamaro
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Just a quick question: what’s the factory alignment specs?
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Old 02-16-2020, 08:10 AM   #30
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-2.4 is more street than track and toe will eat tires, not camber.
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Old 02-16-2020, 10:58 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by MakCamaro View Post
Just a quick question: what’s the factory alignment specs?
About 1.2 to 1.4 all around.
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Old 02-20-2020, 02:06 AM   #32
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My experience with the track alignment is similar to the OP's, except I got more life out of my factory tires than most people, thanks to being unable to actually push the car in the SF Bay area's constipated traffic. I got a track alignment at 14000 miles, when all four tires appeared to be wearing evenly from edge to edge, but the outside edges on the front tires SEEMED to be wearing faster than the rest of the tire (I later read that the tread on the outer shoulder is shallower and it only APPEARS to wear faster). I requested the tech at a very reputable tire shop here to perform the track alignment with the camber set to -2.0* and 0.00 toe for the front tires. By 20000 miles the inside of the front tires were down to the steel cords but the rest of the tire looked the same as it did 6000 miles ago. Hard lesson learned right there that if you have a track alignment and you don't drive aggressively enough, all you're doing is chewing up that inside shoulder. Actual front toe in my case turned out to be 0.00 on the right side and 0.11* in on the left side but that's still within the advise the tech gave that if you're going to run aggressive negative camber in the front you counter that with a tiny bit of toe in.

My alignment after new tires is -1.5* camber and 0.06* toe in as recommended by the the shop. They also recommended that I run 36-38 PSI in the front tires as there was still a lot of tread left in the center on my old tires.
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Old 02-20-2020, 08:47 AM   #33
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About 1.2 to 1.4 all around.
Thank you!
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Old 02-20-2020, 11:54 AM   #34
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By 20000 miles the inside of the front tires were down to the steel cords but the rest of the tire looked the same as it did 6000 miles ago.

Wow, 20k miles on the ss 1le stock tires! That's impressive. I think there might be a relationship between tire width + camber and wear. My 1 series bmw 225 width front tires wore great with 2 degrees of camber and of lot of daily driving. If my math is right 2 degrees across 225mm lifts ~= 8mm, while the 295mm on the front Camaro tires would be ~10.5mm.
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Old 02-20-2020, 12:01 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by jeep_junkie View Post
My experience with the track alignment is similar to the OP's, except I got more life out of my factory tires than most people, thanks to being unable to actually push the car in the SF Bay area's constipated traffic. I got a track alignment at 14000 miles, when all four tires appeared to be wearing evenly from edge to edge, but the outside edges on the front tires SEEMED to be wearing faster than the rest of the tire (I later read that the tread on the outer shoulder is shallower and it only APPEARS to wear faster). I requested the tech at a very reputable tire shop here to perform the track alignment with the camber set to -2.0* and 0.00 toe for the front tires. By 20000 miles the inside of the front tires were down to the steel cords but the rest of the tire looked the same as it did 6000 miles ago. Hard lesson learned right there that if you have a track alignment and you don't drive aggressively enough, all you're doing is chewing up that inside shoulder. Actual front toe in my case turned out to be 0.00 on the right side and 0.11* in on the left side but that's still within the advise the tech gave that if you're going to run aggressive negative camber in the front you counter that with a tiny bit of toe in.

My alignment after new tires is -1.5* camber and 0.06* toe in as recommended by the the shop. They also recommended that I run 36-38 PSI in the front tires as there was still a lot of tread left in the center on my old tires.
If they told you to run 36 - 38 PSI, I would RUN. At that PSI, when they get heated up, you would be at like 42- 45 PSI, WAY TOO much, it will cause the car to feel a bit unstable.

The recommended tire pressure is 32 psi cold. Anything above 36ish HOT, and you start to lose that planted feel.
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Old 02-20-2020, 06:31 PM   #36
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but the outside edges on the front tires SEEMED to be wearing faster than the rest of the tire (I later read that the tread on the outer shoulder is shallower and it only APPEARS to wear faster).
Yes, the outside 1/3rd of the tire seemed to wear faster, But it didn't. And the tread isn't any thinner on the outside 1/3rd either. What you are looking at is the tread groove pattern, and yes, that is shallower than the inner 2/3rds of the tire. But if you measure the tread depth at the holes in the outer portion of the tire, you will find that the tread is indeed the same depth all the way across the tire. Remember, tread isn't the grooves you see in the tire, it is the usable rubber laid on the carcass of the tire. Racing slicks have tread too even though they don't generally have grooves in the tread.
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Old 02-20-2020, 08:29 PM   #37
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If they told you to run 36 - 38 PSI, I would RUN. At that PSI, when they get heated up, you would be at like 42- 45 PSI, WAY TOO much, it will cause the car to feel a bit unstable.

The recommended tire pressure is 32 psi cold. Anything above 36ish HOT, and you start to lose that planted feel.
I run my fronts way over inflated on the street to combat inside edge wear. High 40s cold, I've seen 50 hot before and it's not unstable. It's not optimal grip either but not unstable.

Quote:
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Yes, the outside 1/3rd of the tire seemed to wear faster, But it didn't. And the tread isn't any thinner on the outside 1/3rd either. What you are looking at is the tread groove pattern, and yes, that is shallower than the inner 2/3rds of the tire. But if you measure the tread depth at the holes in the outer portion of the tire, you will find that the tread is indeed the same depth all the way across the tire. Remember, tread isn't the grooves you see in the tire, it is the usable rubber laid on the carcass of the tire. Racing slicks have tread too even though they don't generally have grooves in the tread.
No, tread is exactly that, tread and rubber is rubber. You understand the tire but tread is literally the grooved part.
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Old 02-24-2020, 02:51 AM   #38
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Yes, the outside 1/3rd of the tire seemed to wear faster, But it didn't. And the tread isn't any thinner on the outside 1/3rd either. What you are looking at is the tread groove pattern, and yes, that is shallower than the inner 2/3rds of the tire. But if you measure the tread depth at the holes in the outer portion of the tire, you will find that the tread is indeed the same depth all the way across the tire. Remember, tread isn't the grooves you see in the tire, it is the usable rubber laid on the carcass of the tire. Racing slicks have tread too even though they don't generally have grooves in the tread.
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No, tread is exactly that, tread and rubber is rubber. You understand the tire but tread is literally the grooved part.
^This. The outer shoulder has shallower tread depth (grooves, if you will) for the tire to provide consistent cornering grip as it wears.
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Old 02-24-2020, 02:57 AM   #39
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If they told you to run 36 - 38 PSI, I would RUN. At that PSI, when they get heated up, you would be at like 42- 45 PSI, WAY TOO much, it will cause the car to feel a bit unstable.

The recommended tire pressure is 32 psi cold. Anything above 36ish HOT, and you start to lose that planted feel.
OK, so I checked again with a digital tire pressure gauge in the garage this time and it was 35 PSI. Seems like the TPMS read ~1 PSI higher. I suppose 800 miles isn't enough to get a read on tire wear, but the tire looks even and unremarkable at this time.
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Old 02-24-2020, 07:00 PM   #40
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No, tread is exactly that, tread and rubber is rubber. You understand the tire but tread is literally the grooved part.
No, the grooves are called the tread pattern. It is not the only thing that makes up the tread. If tread was only the grooved portion then slicks would have no tread. Tread it the rubber portion of the tire that is applied to the carcass and designed to be contact with the road surface. As you drive on the tire, the tread is worn away, racing slick or DOT legal tire.
In the case of the SC3, why would there be tread depth holes deeper than the tread pattern on the outside edge of the tire if the tire is worn out when those grooves are gone?
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Old 02-24-2020, 08:33 PM   #41
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No, a slick doesn't have tread, exactly why it's called a slick...
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Old 02-24-2020, 08:58 PM   #42
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If a slick doesn't have tread, why does it come with tread depth holes?
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