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Old 04-19-2021, 08:19 AM   #29
JSH


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vileintent View Post
My son and I upgraded our 2017 A10 ZL1 with a Magnusson 2650R as our covid father son project. We took it to the dyno to see what it's at for power and the numbers came back a lot lower than I was expecting, pretty bummed about it actually.

Mods on the car:
  • Standard Rotofab (not big gulp)
  • AWE Touring cat back exhaust
  • Soler performance ported throttle body (stock size)

Other details:
  • Mileage: 22,000
  • 92 pump gas
  • Stock lower pulley, upper 90mm, throttle body 90mm
  • Runs were done in 6th gear
  • I don't have a baseline unfortunately, the shop pulled up a baseline for another customer (same car) and it was 547WHP SAE (about what I'd expect for stock)
  • Dynojet AWD using SAE, smoothing factor 5

Results
  • First run (#004) was using the Magnuson canned tune, other run is after a custom tune. I was hoping for 650-670 but came out at 622. A 75HP increase.
  • Interesting the curve flattens at 6K RPM, perhaps that's normal?
  • The boost appeared to hit 15psi, much higher than I expected?? Going in I was thinking of ways to get to 11-13psi, potentially going to an 85mm upper pulley but with the boost showing 15 it doesn't seem like I should touch it.
  • The custom tune definitely added more under the curve for torque in the lower end which I can definitely feel.

Plans from here:

I think I need to open things up to get more airflow so :
  • Open up the snout, go to 103mm throttle body
  • Consider headers and high flow cats

Goal: 680-700 WHP on 92 pump gas (for now)

.
I recall KaTech saying that if you just bolt the 2650 on with no other mods it would likely be around 600-620RWHP.
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'20 ZL1 1LE A10,
OEM short block, LME heads/valve train, E2650.
100+ octanes, no eth, no meth, no N2O.
2/23 - 1031/1004 wheel.
4/23 - 1.41/9.61/145 at DA 7000 ft. (only made five passes).
2/24 - LME 390, E2650, FBO, 100 oct.; 1116hp/ 1063tq; 109 oct. dyno next.
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Old 04-19-2021, 09:43 AM   #30
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Interesting, I pulled 670whp with just the edelbrock 2650 and a tune
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Old 04-19-2021, 12:31 PM   #31
radz28
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Moving from a standard RF to their BG required about 25% more fueling for another car I know about (no other mods'). Just sayin'...
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Old 04-19-2021, 12:38 PM   #32
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According to Mikey on his corvette it makes 740 rwhp stock TB and no headers.. so wtf?
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Old 06-22-2021, 02:17 PM   #33
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Any updates OP? I’m pretty with the exact same parts in mine so it’s a good chance I will get the same outcome. The only changes I did was go ahead and order the 103mm NW TB, 103mm snout and the JMS Fuel Max. So, I am hoping that the custom tune will get better numbers than your highest.

Still stock headers and cats.
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Old 06-22-2021, 05:36 PM   #34
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Don't need the big gulp and yes, the standard rotofab will fit on a 103mm tb.
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Magnuson 2650 - 15% lower, 90mm upper
FIC+30%
DSX Flex fuel/Low side
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Old 06-22-2021, 06:11 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vileintent View Post
We took it to the dyno to see what it's at for power and the numbers came back a lot lower than I was expecting, pretty bummed about it actually.
This is another really good reason to avoid dyno numbers. It's much more important to focus on getting the car to run like you want it to, like it should run
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'20 ZL1 1LE A10,
OEM short block, LME heads/valve train, E2650.
100+ octanes, no eth, no meth, no N2O.
2/23 - 1031/1004 wheel.
4/23 - 1.41/9.61/145 at DA 7000 ft. (only made five passes).
2/24 - LME 390, E2650, FBO, 100 oct.; 1116hp/ 1063tq; 109 oct. dyno next.
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Old 06-22-2021, 06:55 PM   #36
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Didn't see it mentioned, but how were your dyno numbers displayed? The shop I used displayed my numbers as uncorrected. SAE correction bumped them appx 40hp in my case. I see the compare dyno numbers were SAE. Just verify if yours were.
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Old 06-22-2021, 07:07 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vileintent View Post
I'm not sure about doing a cam. I know it's probably the easiest way to get fuel to break past 700WHP but I'm not yet ready to open the engine internals and I'm not a fan of the motor boat sound that comes with it. Cool for some, not entirely my thing. That said, I will likely convince myself once I get used to the 670-700 power range. Never say never goes the saying right : )

You know you can get a stockish idle cam that has no lope and just a bigger fuel lobe right ?

You also need headers and a bigger tb. This is your missing hp.
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LME 377 LT4 Short Block | Magnuson 2650 80mm upper w/13% lower (9.06) | DSX Lid & Valve Covers | CSP Custom Cam w/32% fuel lobe | CID Heads | NW 103mm TB | Roto Fab Big Gulp | CSP 2" Headers w/Green GESI Gen 2 Cats | Borla 3" Full Cat Back w/ S-Type| Mighty Mouse Wild Catch Can| Custom Holley Low side Fuel system| TooHigh PSI Port Injection w/Holley Controller | Forced Inductions Interchiller w/2 gallon fender tank | TK Performance built 10L90
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Old 06-22-2021, 07:40 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camaro1973 View Post
You know you can get a stockish idle cam that has no lope and just a bigger fuel lobe right ?

You also need headers and a bigger tb. This is your missing hp.
If I could do headers, I would definitely… I live in CA so, what’s good for the other 49 states somehow isn’t good enough for this place

Time to get creative and figure out how to get to hellcat/gt500 power and still keep the equipment on… or easily swappable
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Old 06-22-2021, 07:46 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camaro1973 View Post
You know you can get a stockish idle cam that has no lope and just a bigger fuel lobe right ?

You also need headers and a bigger tb. This is your missing hp.
For sure.. a supercharged car doesn't even need all that.. if I didn't have borla Atak you wouldn't even know I had a cam.

Lpe cam has the 38% and 42% specifically for there pump with no chop at all.
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Old 06-22-2021, 07:49 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airtroop01 View Post
If I could do headers, I would definitely… I live in CA so, what’s good for the other 49 states somehow isn’t good enough for this place

Time to get creative and figure out how to get to hellcat/gt500 power and still keep the equipment on… or easily swappable
This is like any other motor more air in more air out with more flow..

So ported heads, ported blower, smooth idle cam and best California will let you do!
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Old 06-22-2021, 08:04 PM   #41
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I don't know much about cams so it's good to know you can add fuel and still have a stock-like idle. I'll add it back to my list of things to consider (along with headers)

I'm literally in my garage right now adding:
  • NW 103mm throttle body
  • Matching snout
  • JMS Fuel Pump Booster

I'm booked to go back to the dyno this Friday so keeping my fingers crossed I'll see some better gains + get rid of the low side fuel drop at WOT (was down to ~50PSI). From there I can see I need to do more to hit my goal of 800 crank.
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Old 06-22-2021, 08:47 PM   #42
airtroop01
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vileintent View Post
I don't know much about cams so it's good to know you can add fuel and still have a stock-like idle. I'll add it back to my list of things to consider (along with headers)

I'm literally in my garage right now adding:
  • NW 103mm throttle body
  • Matching snout
  • JMS Fuel Pump Booster

I'm booked to go back to the dyno this Friday so keeping my fingers crossed I'll see some better gains + get rid of the low side fuel drop at WOT (was down to ~50PSI). From there I can see I need to do more to hit my goal of 800 crank.
Cool… Same parts. Just waiting for UPS/FedEx…
I’m guessing that the big issue with power will be effective octane and ability to add timing.
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