[Snakebt6]

In my experience with aggressive camber and low toe #s on the alignment sheet (like post 58,) you should still get pretty good overall wear between track and street driving. As long as you're adjusting air pressures between the track and street and not street driving on starting track air pressures.

There's quite a few other factors of course but imo you need to start with the above to really have a good baseline of tire life and wear patterns. I think then you can start looking at abuse on out laps, driving styles, improper alignment, and fine tuning air pressure as some of the culprits for uneven and premature wear.

Edit:
Like posted in one of the pictures, 35-37 at the max hot pressure should have your outter wear at the top of the winged boot on the SC3R/SC3. Depending on the track and driving style that will probably mean different pressure in each tire.

I generally start at 30 depending on the outside air temp. (On a hot Florida summer day ive started as low as 27 psi) Run 7 or 8 laps and make air pressure adjustments to be no higher than 37psi. During the course of the track day as it gets warmer or I get faster, or both, adjust to keep the hot pressure in that 35-37 range.

If youre doing that and have horrendous track day tire wear its an alignment or driving style issue.

[Checkmate1]

Has anyone driven the ZL1 1LE on track on the stock (Non Track) alignment for a baseline?

Curious on feedback.

[Zl1+911]

Originally Posted by Snakebt6

In my experience with aggressive camber and low toe #s on the alignment sheet (like post 58,) you should still get pretty good overall wear between track and street driving. As long as you're adjusting air pressures between the track and street and not street driving on starting track air pressures.

There's quite a few other factors of course but imo you need to start with the above to really have a good baseline of tire life and wear patterns. I think then you can start looking at abuse on out laps, driving styles, improper alignment, and fine tuning air pressure as some of the culprits for uneven and premature wear.

Edit:
Like posted in one of the pictures, 35-37 at the max hot pressure should have your outter wear at the top of the winged boot on the SC3R/SC3. Depending on the track and driving style that will probably mean different pressure in each tire.

I generally start at 30 depending on the outside air temp. (On a hot Florida summer day ive started as low as 27 psi) Run 7 or 8 laps and make air pressure adjustments to be no higher than 37psi. During the course of the track day as it gets warmer or I get faster, or both, adjust to keep the hot pressure in that 35-37 range.

If youre doing that and have horrendous track day tire wear its an alignment or driving style issue.

+1

it is my observation that inside tire wear is huge in the first few laps at low pressure. I now (patiently) wait till is go from 28/29 to 32/33 before i push the car in the corners. The first session of the day does the most damage if not managed carefully. I also try and not go below 35 hot in the fronts (even though there is slightly more grip to be had at 33)

[khcoaching]

Question - In other track cars I have used, we are almost always over -3deg in the front and have no issues with inside wear. The ZLE in "track" setting seems to max out at just under -3 and there are lots of issues with the inside wearing quickly...Is that correct?

Ken

[mspeed1LE]

I have been driving my ZLE with the track alignment for over a year with no noticeable inside wear.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by khcoaching

Question - In other track cars I have used, we are almost always over -3deg in the front and have no issues with inside wear. The ZLE in "track" setting seems to max out at just under -3 and there are lots of issues with the inside wearing quickly...Is that correct?



Ken

It's more of a dynamic toe issue than anything else. I think the high camber #s will compound the problem.

Originally Posted by mspeed1LE

I have been driving my ZLE with the track alignment for over a year with no noticeable inside wear.

What is your static toe set at?

[Stephen12ZL1]

Originally Posted by Checkmate1

Has anyone driven the ZL1 1LE on track on the stock (Non Track) alignment for a baseline?

Curious on feedback.

car is fine but tire wear is not even...at the very least, turn the strut to track camber and run like that and return the strut to the street setting for street driving.

[Checkmate1]

Well..I did my track day at Summit over a week ago.

Despite turning my front struts to track camber, I can't seem to automatically get -2.75 on either side. Not sure if I'm missing something.

My toe was out of whack after 1 track day. It was originally set at 0.05 Toe In F/R.

I ordered the SPL Rear Toe Arms with Lockout.

See below -

[khcoaching]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

It's more of a dynamic toe issue than anything else. I think the high camber #s will compound the problem.

Ahh, got it. I searched to see if anyone has tried more camber with the OE DSSV and didn't see anything and now this makes sense.

Ken

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by Checkmate1

Well..I did my track day at Summit over a week ago.

Despite turning my front struts to track camber, I can't seem to automatically get -2.75 on either side. Not sure if I'm missing something.

My toe was out of whack after 1 track day. It was originally set at 0.05 Toe In F/R.

I ordered the SPL Rear Toe Arms with Lockout.

See below -

It's not as simple as only turning the camber plates. It is partly affected by what you camber was prior to moving anything. You may still have to fine tune the camber via the strut to knuckle connection. Temporarily install a 10mmx1.5 bolt or set screw in the threads at the top of the knuckle (below pic), lightly seating it against the strut. Loosen the two large lower strut bolts. The upper hole (of the two large bolts) in the strut is slotted allowing for fine camber adjustment. Turn the 10mmx1.5 bolt in (clockwise) to reduce the negative camber, out (counter-clockwise) to increase. This works best when you have the suspension loaded. What I do is I place a jack under the rotor and compress the suspension slightly. This keeps the knuckle and strut kinda loaded tight against each other. It makes for more accurate adjustments. One turn of the adjuster bolt yields approximately .4* of camber. Keep the jack under the rotor and tighten the two large lower strut bolts to spec. Remove the 10mmx1.5 bolt.



The Gen6 two large strut bolts most likely need to be hammered out of the knuckle to the point where their splines are out of the knuckle. Do not completely remove the bolts. I say "most likely" because some have said there is no need to hammer them out. In my experience of doing an alignment on my friend's SS 1LE, we did have to hammer out the bolts so the knuckle would be free to move.

Of course doing it the way described above isn't how an alignment shop may do it. I do my own alignments and I aware of how I can hone in on my #s with the tire removed. It is possible to loosen the two large bolts without removing the tire. But it is important to temporarily install the 10mmx1.5 bolt,, this is what gives you the fine adjustability. A good alignment tech can do this fine tuning without drama. The tough part is find those good techs

Any camber change up front will change the toe. Adding more negative camber will, on the Gen5/6 Camaro, create more toe out. Just turning the camber plates at will, between max camber and street camber will change the total toe. Some find a happy medium that still is not exactly "happy" for one side or the other.

I wouldn't sweat the front toe movement from your total toe spec of .05* that moved to .02*. This is a difference of .013" which is very minor. I could see that as just a tolerance variable somewhere. But what is also showing is the LF is toed out, while the RF is toed in. That out/in difference could be as simple as the steering wheel not perfectly straight. On the rear toe movement, the SPL parts will fix that.

[SFV1LE]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

car is fine but tire wear is not even...at the very least, turn the strut to track camber and run like that and return the strut to the street setting for street driving.

Unless you do your own alignment and you're very good at it (which very few people are) switching between track and street camber plate settings on a ZLE, before and after every track event, would be very expensive and time consuming. You can't just rotate the plates, you have to dial in a few things that take special tools and skill or it will not be right.

Every dealer and alignment shop I asked about this quoted at least $300. So for each track event having this street>track>street process done right by a pro is ~$600--that's more than 2 days track fees alone.

If the ZLE is your daily driver, you're serious about max performance on track, and you don't want to spend a ton on worn street tires, you might have to do this. In that case you need to learn to do your own alignment.

My ZLE is only for track and canyon use so I leave it set at max camber, and get alignment re-done for ~$120 every 2 track days. It usually only takes minor adjustments but toe tends to move a little.

[foshjowler]

I will say that setting my camber at -2.5 F -2.0 R I haven't seen dramatic extra tire wear over 8k miles or so on my street wheels/tires. Maybe 1 mm from the inside to the outside of the tire. We'll see how it wears down with more miles, but I don't see it making a difference of more than a few thousand miles on a set of Michelin a/s 3+. IMO it's not worth bothering with switching the alignment back and forth, even if you get your alignments for free. The hassle of changing alignments before and after events would be too much for me.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by foshjowler

I will say that setting my camber at -2.5 F -2.0 R I haven't seen dramatic extra tire wear over 8k miles or so on my street wheels/tires. Maybe 1 mm from the inside to the outside of the tire. We'll see how it wears down with more miles, but I don't see it making a difference of more than a few thousand miles on a set of Michelin a/s 3+. IMO it's not worth bothering with switching the alignment back and forth, even if you get your alignments for free. The hassle of changing alignments before and after events would be too much for me.

What toe do you run at the front?

[Stephen12ZL1]

Originally Posted by SFV1LE

Unless you do your own alignment and you're very good at it (which very few people are) switching between track and street camber plate settings on a ZLE, before and after every track event, would be very expensive and time consuming. You can't just rotate the plates, you have to dial in a few things that take special tools and skill or it will not be right.

Every dealer and alignment shop I asked about this quoted at least $300. So for each track event having this street>track>street process done right by a pro is ~$600--that's more than 2 days track fees alone.

If the ZLE is your daily driver, you're serious about max performance on track, and you don't want to spend a ton on worn street tires, you might have to do this. In that case you need to learn to do your own alignment.

My ZLE is only for track and canyon use so I leave it set at max camber, and get alignment re-done for ~$120 every 2 track days. It usually only takes minor adjustments but toe tends to move a little.

Understood
... the only thing I'm saying is if you have a choice between running track camber at the track versus Street camber you should run at track camber. The toe will be off and tire wear will not be amazing.