[Dixie ZL1]

Originally Posted by cirpower

Oh no, so basically what you are saying is that without going with a cam, adding the upgraded fuel pump does not seem worth it? You ran E40 before the change, correct?

I think it depends on your setup. On my ZL1 ran out of Low side at E40 and the DW400 resolved that issue. Unfortunately my HPFP is now out of gas at E60, so now I’m starting to consider a LPE DI pump.

I still this this is a good solution instead of voltage boosters, or drilling a hole in the tank for a DSX.

[cirpower]

I am sold, how did you do it and what were the costs?

[travislambert]

Originally Posted by Dixie ZL1

I think it depends on your setup. On my ZL1 ran out of Low side at E40 and the DW400 resolved that issue. Unfortunately my HPFP is now out of gas at E60, so now I’m starting to consider a LPE DI pump.

I still this this is a good solution instead of voltage boosters, or drilling a hole in the tank for a DSX.

I've been told by a reputable tuner that the LPE DI pump isn't a worthwhile upgrade. I'd probably consider a cam with a different fuel lobe first.

Are you absolutely certain the low-side is keeping up? I'd be suspicious of a slight low-side pressure dip starving the high-side.

[RHight]

I have a 2014 chevy ss im trying to retrofit the DW400 all went well until start up seems to be hard to start. finally let it run for a few and try to drive around the block it spit at medium throttle and finally died now wont start. noticing on the pics venture hose has T what goes to T. DIXIE any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Dixie ZL1]

Originally Posted by RHight

I have a 2014 chevy ss im trying to retrofit the DW400 all went well until start up seems to be hard to start. finally let it run for a few and try to drive around the block it spit at medium throttle and finally died now wont start. noticing on the pics venture hose has T what goes to T. DIXIE any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi chevy SS,

Does your DW400 have a built in check valve? You can identify the check valve by an orange insert in the output of the pump. Lack of this check valve with enable fuel rail leak down and create hard starting.

I’m not familiar with the Gen5 fuel tank, but the Gen6 has a split tank and the Venturi port “T” is to enable fuel transfer into the fuel pump side of the tank.

I suggest checking rail pressure to start your diagnostic. I suspect you have an issue with the fuel line from the pump to the hat. Assuming you replaced the stock pump to hat line with a new flexible line.

Happy to help you diagnose.

[danhr]

Curious if this can be replicated with a walbro 525.... I definently see this as a good inexpensive median between the stock pump and an auxiliary

[Dixie ZL1]

Originally Posted by danhr

Curious if this can be replicated with a walbro 525.... I definently see this as a good inexpensive median between the stock pump and an auxiliary

I evaluated the 525 pump and it has two issues: 1) the main body is too small and the bell is too large for easy fitment and retention, and 2) it doesn’t have a check valve.

There’s also no upside for any additional work as the DW400 and 525 have almost identical performance at 70 PSI. The Walbro flow 525 LPH @ 0 PSI, which is a worthless measure of performance

[danhr]

Originally Posted by Dixie ZL1

I evaluated the 525 pump and it has two issues: 1) the main body is too small and the bell is too large for easy fitment and retention, and 2) it doesn’t have a check valve.

There’s also no upside for any additional work as the DW400 and 525 have almost identical performance at 70 PSI. The Walbro flow 525 LPH @ 0 PSI, which is a worthless measure of performance

Agreed they are both the same in performance, but I would rank the walbro higher in reliability imo.

Iirc the nickname I remember hearing for the dw400 is thsy it is the DoesntWork400

[RHight]

Well I called Deatsch works on the check valve initially before install and it had the yellow/orange cage in it and manufacture date was last month on pump. I run a BAP on system and I'm set at max 21.00 volts I think I need to back that off to 18.00 setting. due to fact it blew the FSCM fuse 30amp, I haven't dug out the 40 amp inline on the BAP yet (today) but I guessing its blown as car wont start or even try hit off(electrical) doesn't sound like fuel. I basically hooked everything up how it cam off the OEM module. my venture does not have a T so im guessing I have correctly installed everything using you pics as reference and they were Mucho helpful. I wil douvble check the BAP fuse see if I can get it running. if not maybe I will pull pump and post pics see if you guys see anything I missed. thanks

[Dixie ZL1]

I will update the thread with new photos early next week as I made a mistake in the initial project and didn’t have enough loop in the 10mm fuel line from the pump to the hat resulting in hose failure. That’s has been resolved.

Fortunately I had built two assemblies, so a longer line on the second pump and a quick swap resolved the issue.

Chalking it up to working out the “kinks” ��

[Dixie ZL1]

Originally Posted by danhr

Agreed they are both the same in performance, but I would rank the walbro higher in reliability imo.

Iirc the nickname I remember hearing for the dw400 is thsy it is the DoesntWork400

Prior to Camaro life I developed a semi-return fuel system for the Volvo community and used Aeromotive 340’s, DW300’s Walbro 485’s & 525’s and only had trouble with the Aeromotive. DW has been good to me so far.

[RHight]

DixieZL I dialed the BAP back to low setting 18 volts and installed new 40 amp mainline fuse to BAP and "viola" she fired up and ran like a top. haven't put her on the road yet, but all is good if were at least running. on my install I used the entire supply hose which made a pretty good loop so im hopeful that's going to work. I will look forward to your pics thanks for any and all input. always gets the mind reeling with ideas.

[Dixie ZL1]

Originally Posted by RHight

DixieZL I dialed the BAP back to low setting 18 volts and installed new 40 amp mainline fuse to BAP and "viola" she fired up and ran like a top. haven't put her on the road yet, but all is good if were at least running. on my install I used the entire supply hose which made a pretty good loop so im hopeful that's going to work. I will look forward to your pics thanks for any and all input. always gets the mind reeling with ideas.

Good news. The max voltage input for the DW400 is 18V, so I guess I’m not surprised it pulled too much current. You really shouldn’t need to drive it that hard through.

You’re supply hose will work fine if you have a loop. I’ve never had an issue in the past and simply made a mistake.

[scantone]

Might try throwing one in my Zle, has a 32% cam..........guess it can't hurt. This with a JMS might be the ticket!