**startup VID** SBE LLSR with FED custom TFS262cc..it begins

[WHAMMO]

Well I got it!! I removed the bolts by drilling em and using extractor!! I was stressed and I gotta tell those recessed bolts are the worst thing ever invented!

[WHAMMO]

Heads are back on; cam is degreed and the PTV clearance is 0.74 exh minimum and .175 exh, that is with a .040 Cometic gasket. I am pretty happy I didn't end up fly cutting. I checked 3 times with old gasket.

Tricky part is the pushrod length; seems like it should be around 6.750" . That seems awfully short, but the heads are milled, Isky lifters might have a longer body, T&D 1.8 rockers needs shorter PR, the valves tip is .203 higher than stock, and the more the lift, the more the rocker stand is gotta be lowered. You use a little T shim tool that came with the rockers to determine if your rockers are properly shimmed. Turned out mine don't need any shimming/ machining.

I am gonna try to fit 3/8 pushrods, while there is tons of space, TFS might not clear bigger than 11/32.

[WHAMMO]

About degreeing the cam, you need to remove the electric motor or the steering; just 3-4 bolts and 3 connections, or the degree wheels WONT fit!

Gotta say that for the rest, I setup a home made piston stop from a 90deg metal part from home Depot I had laying around. I was lucky enough that the little arm from the kit happens to fit in one of the holes of it. Forget about any magnetic base...
I suggest you get the comp cams kit, or at least not the kit with the magnetic I had.

[WHAMMO]

HLittle info on the retainers / springs size combo;

1209x are 1.320 size and there's not many retainer size that are close to this. Most of the LS retainers are advertised as good for up to a 1.300 size springs, even then they're too small.

I have the numbers somewhere but here's a pic for reference; I felt that the BTR steel (54$) are too small for a 1209x springs, even if they said to me over the phone it was alright. I called FED and decided to keep my ti retainers, which are a lot beefier, as you can see.

For the Micrometer, I suggest to use a beehive spring tool cause the double springs tool didn't make any sense. It's easier to add the retainer part sitting on top of it than with the double tool. Maybe it's me, but the double tool was way too big and it didn't into account the retainer sitting inside the tool...

I double checked with my dial caliper and numbers were spot on. Ended up with an installed height of 1.78-1.85. since the Ti retainers will deteriorate over time, installed height will go up I guess.

Valve seals have enough clearance between the retainers.

[WHAMMO]

Got my Fluid Damper and I ordered the crush washer for it(10-14 days delivery).

I need to reinstall the oil pump, new injectors and set up the Meziere water pump.

[WHAMMO]

Cold start :O

https://youtu.be/O16e6hw8Tu8

[Clarkstar]

Originally Posted by WHAMMO

About degreeing the cam, you need to remove the electric motor or the steering; just 3-4 bolts and 3 connections, or the degree wheels WONT fit!

Gotta say that for the rest, I setup a home made piston stop from a 90deg metal part from home Depot I had laying around. I was lucky enough that the little arm from the kit happens to fit in one of the holes of it. Forget about any magnetic base...
I suggest you get the comp cams kit, or at least not the kit with the magnetic I had.

I used comp cams 9" degree wheel. It fit fine. I got a 2" thick piece of steel from work and set it on the valley tray then attached me magnetic base to it.... worked great.

[WHAMMO]

Originally Posted by Clarkstar

I used comp cams 9" degree wheel. It fit fine. I got a 2" thick piece of steel from work and set it on the valley tray then attached me magnetic base to it.... worked great.

Great idea. I don't have much ressources in my garage but I got it done!

Rockers do not clear the stock valve covers with a .5inch spacer. I removed the baffles and it should be alright now.

I had a slight fuel leak but it was easily fixed. I might drive the car tomorrow.

New tune from Pat G seems spot on, as usual.