Electrical woes: Alternator? Starter? Short?

[metrogdor22]

Less than a year ago, I purchased a new battery for my car. A couple of weeks ago, that battery died and I replaced it with a new one. My car had trouble turning over for a few days before it couldn't even make it one full revolution. Thinking it was the alternator, I got a jump and took the car to Autozone to get tested.

They hooked their tester up, and the tester showed a bad battery. Unlikely, but it's under warranty and free to replace, so I did that. They gave me a new battery off the shelf. It wouldn't turn one full revolution again. They used their tester, which again showed a bad battery. Then they took another battery off the shelf, tested it as good, and then I put it in my car. The car started fine and I drove home.

This morning the car started and I drove around for a bit, but noticed some odd behavior: according to the voltage gauge on the 4-pack cluster, the battery had 13 volts when I started. Then after a few seconds of idling, it dropped to 11 or so, then went back to 12.5. I drove around while watching the gauge and it fluctuated between 12.5 and 14, but didn't seem to be in relation to RPM.

Most of these symptoms scream "bad alternator". Except that A) their tester showed the alternator was fine, and B) the car wouldn't start with one brand new battery. Maybe their tester is full of shit and one of the batteries they gave me was bad? What do you guys and girls think?

[muffins4all]

If your voltage gauge is dropping below 12.5 then the battery is having to provide energy to power the systems in the car.

So I'd say it's the alternator not giving enough juice to take over for the battery. Or your connection from the battery to the car is faulty somewhere.

Maybe go to another place to get the alternator tested? Cause your battery will eventually go dead again.

[Leo72793]

Check your grounds. Chances are they are NOT truly tight. I had this happen on a 05 ram. literally one ugga dugga and all issues went away.

Also, engine ground SUCKS.

[metrogdor22]

UPDATE:

I removed everything electrical I've done to the car and the problem seems to have gone away. I won't know for certain until the car sits for a couple of days, but I'll update later. I went ahead and bought an alternator ($230+$20 S&H) for reassurance.

[beak81champ]

Originally Posted by metrogdor22

UPDATE:

I removed everything electrical I've done to the car and the problem seems to have gone away. I won't know for certain until the car sits for a couple of days, but I'll update later. I went ahead and bought an alternator ($230+$20 S&H) for reassurance.

Did you notice anything blatant while you were removing things? Keep us updated.

[metrogdor22]

Originally Posted by beak81champ

Did you notice anything blatant while you were removing things? Keep us updated.

No, I didn't see anything that struck me as unusual. Nothing was loose, nothing shorting, nothing looked burnt. For the record I removed the following:

* MSD 2-Step launch controller
* Dashcam hardwire kit
* Forza Componenti exhaust controller

The exhaust controller is the only thing that receives power from an always-on fuse, but according to the manufacturer, it receives a minuscule amount of power. As in, if you drive the car at least once a month, it won't be a problem.

[jethrobandit]

Originally Posted by metrogdor22

No, I didn't see anything that struck me as unusual. Nothing was loose, nothing shorting, nothing looked burnt. For the record I removed the following:

* MSD 2-Step launch controller
* Dashcam hardwire kit
* Forza Componenti exhaust controller

The exhaust controller is the only thing that receives power from an always-on fuse, but according to the manufacturer, it receives a minuscule amount of power. As in, if you drive the car at least once a month, it won't be a problem.

Have you found out anything with this issue? I have a very similar setup including the Forza and have had intermittent issues (no start and then immediately start — sometimes with Service Stabilitrak warning in DIC). Drove it around today and started it 6 or 7 times with no issues. Parked it for 30 min and it is 100% Completely DEAD! No clicking, no attempt to turn, no juice, can't even open the trunk or lock the doors. Nothing comes on.

Don't even know where to start. Starter and Alternator don't sound like the issue. I just replaced the battery 4 months ago (mainly due to the mis-start issue). All my connections are tight. Guess I'll have to look and see if wires got fried somewhere underneath or in the bay. Still doesn't make sense to be completely dead.

[TXsilvy]

I have an extra alternator if you diagnose that to be the issue. less thank 10k miles and an OEM sealed unit (not aftermarket rebuit junk). I'll take 100+ ship. I'm not running the e38 ecm so the alternator is not going to work for my build.

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by metrogdor22

Less than a year ago, I purchased a new battery for my car. A couple of weeks ago, that battery died and I replaced it with a new one. My car had trouble turning over for a few days before it couldn't even make it one full revolution. Thinking it was the alternator, I got a jump and took the car to Autozone to get tested.

They hooked their tester up, and the tester showed a bad battery. Unlikely, but it's under warranty and free to replace, so I did that. They gave me a new battery off the shelf. It wouldn't turn one full revolution again. They used their tester, which again showed a bad battery. Then they took another battery off the shelf, tested it as good, and then I put it in my car. The car started fine and I drove home.

This morning the car started and I drove around for a bit, but noticed some odd behavior: according to the voltage gauge on the 4-pack cluster, the battery had 13 volts when I started. Then after a few seconds of idling, it dropped to 11 or so, then went back to 12.5. I drove around while watching the gauge and it fluctuated between 12.5 and 14, but didn't seem to be in relation to RPM.

Most of these symptoms scream "bad alternator". Except that A) their tester showed the alternator was fine, and B) the car wouldn't start with one brand new battery. Maybe their tester is full of shit and one of the batteries they gave me was bad? What do you guys and girls think?

Couple of thoughts 1)How long after the cam install did the battery die ... if shortly then maybe serpentine belt/ tensioner reinstall issue 2)Do you have an underdrive pulley ?