[scottcolem]

it does. the only issue I've had with mine are the heat shrink over the coolant lines were leaking and I had to install a hose clamp.

[waterman]

Continuing to follow this thread with great interest.

[kwav8r]

Originally Posted by scottcolem

it does. the only issue I've had with mine are the heat shrink over the coolant lines were leaking and I had to install a hose clamp.

Thanks! Appreciate the heads up on the heat shrink vs hose clamps. I’ll go with hose clamps from the start.

[kwav8r]

Here's where I'm running into an issue. There's a hard line (metal) that runs right behind the radiator and secured with a plastic retainer to the fan shroud. It either has to be moved or the tank must sit in-between the line and the fan shroud. It's wrapped in anti-chafe.

[LiqTenExp]

Here's some pictures of my current install. Used the fill point that came with the magnuson 2300 so the tank could be completely filled and all the air removed.

[waterman]

Originally Posted by LiqTenExp

Here's some pictures of my current install. Used the fill point that came with the magnuson 2300 so the tank could be completely filled and all the air removed.

Thanks for posting.

[LiqTenExp]

FYI,

You can see the inline fitting/heatshrink on the bottom tube of tank going to the top of the pump on the second picture

[kwav8r]

LiqTenExp - again, thank you for the photos they were very helpful.

I also reached out to Cordes and Justin there was kind enough to send the photos below that answered the rest of my questions (apologies for the top two loading sideways).

[kwav8r]

Originally Posted by kwav8r

Here's where I'm running into an issue. There's a hard line (metal) that runs right behind the radiator and secured with a plastic retainer to the fan shroud. It either has to be moved or the tank must sit in-between the line and the fan shroud. It's wrapped in anti-chafe.

During the install I did end up removing the grommet holding this line in place and that line now sits on the bottom of the Cordes tank (see top photo above).

You do have to cut the return line from the S/C manifold near the attachment point of the coolant pump. You want to leave enough of the rubber line though so that you can turn it 180 degrees (it needs to face toward the Cordes reservoir). The clamp that holds the tube to the pump is a mother. Initially, I tried twisting 180 degrees while it was still attached and could not get it to turn. I ended up pulling that tube off BUT, the clamp is attached to the tube and will not allow you to spin it into an easy to get to position. I ended up using a small vise-grip to hold the clamp open and re-install on the pump (see the middle photo above).

Note in the bottom picture above that the supply line (the front most line) for the water manifold on the S/C has been removed and raised up out of the way. I highly recommend doing that as it gives you more room to work with. You'll have to snake it out from under the A/C pressure line (keep the end up) and I reattached it to the manifold to keep from losing fluid out of the S/C.

As previously mentioned, I used hose clamps instead of the heat shrink to ensure no leaks from the system.

Once I got everything put back together I just filled the tank, left the lid off and started her up. The air purged pretty quickly and from there I added to it to top it off. You'll want to put the tank lid back on before you turn off the motor and do NOT open the tank with the motor off (don't ask me how I know).

[Saksride]

I installed one also, very good quality. I love it, plus makes bleeding the system as easy as just running with cap open and adding coolant. Only thing I need to figure out is where can I put a catch can system now... I’m out of room.

[Torquem]

Interesting. I would have figured that tank would have to be higher than supercharger for the air to naturally purge through the tank.

[breakskeet]

Originally Posted by Torquem

Interesting. I would have figured that tank would have to be higher than supercharger for the air to naturally purge through the tank.

Yes, It has to be

[LiqTenExp]

Originally Posted by breakskeet

Yes, It has to be

Yes, that is why the extra fill point was added in my photos above to get the most fluid in and all the air out.

[kwav8r]

As the return line (the one with the OEM purge valve) feeds into the top of the can, and as long as you don't drain the bricks, running the car after the install will remove the air from the system, at least that's what I was lead to believe by Cordes.

From my observation there's quite a bit of volume being moved through the system by the pump and the return line coming into the reservoir doesn't sit that much lower than the OEM purge valve. It 'should' be able to get 99% of the air out just driving it around a bit.

At any rate, I'm going to test the theory by topping off the reservoir and then raise the tank the half inch of difference b/w top of tank and the purge valve (make it the apex of the system) and see if there's a change in the fluid level in the tank. My guess is that it won't be much, if anything.

Hell, you could likely achieve the same effect by putting the front end on ramps, jack stands, front lift, and get the same effect.

In LiqTenExp case, I think they had to replace the purge valve due to replacing the S/C. That way they can put a vacuum pump on it to remove the air before introducing the fluid.