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Old 06-05-2020, 12:55 PM   #29
TheRealJA105

 
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Originally Posted by Leadrightpedal View Post
I’m pretty firm on sticking with stick parts personally. However I could use a good shop in the Houston area. Not going back the dealer. They haven’t called me either on the fronts. So I’ll just take the $180 as a lesson and work with a trusted local mechanic from now on.

Also really want to get rid of that braking shudder. Might as well change my fluid as I’ve had 2 liters of SRF sitting around for that purpose.

Any opinions on brake lines? Stock ok? Maybe better feel with aftermarket? Please let me know.
I'm going to be blunt, because i am good at that. None of your brakes look like they need replaced to me. Although posting the back side of your rear pads really doesn't show us anything Front Pads and all rotors look like they have alot of life left especially for street driving. Also please don't waste more of your money on any brake upgrades. The 1LE brakes are designed for hard track duty. NOTHING i repeat NOTHING you do to them on the street will even eclipse 50% of their capability. Not sure why you wasted money on SRF either, only needed on the track. Unless you are hooking up a trailer to the car, loading it to max towing capacity, and driving in mountains that is. If that's what you are doing, ignore what i said.
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Old 06-05-2020, 01:53 PM   #30
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^ I would want measurements. Most brake pads are recommended to be replaced at 4mm or less. Rotors really should be replaced with pads, most can't be resurfaced.
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Old 06-05-2020, 01:54 PM   #31
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So I just got the car back. Clearly the prices on each rotor and pads are about $60 higher each than GMpartsdirect. I could post the receipt if that is okay with the forum rules. So I overpaid $180. However they charged me only 1 hour labor for the rear and intend to charge the same for the front.

Honestly I can’t tell from looking at the rotors. They don’t look warped as far as I can see. But the pads are clearly worn.
Could just be me but those pads look like they still have life left in them for street driving purposes. Also, a set of rotors should last longer than a set of pads. I’d get a second opinion before spending $ to replace them. Too late for the rears obv but the fronts are the most expensive ones anyway
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Old 06-05-2020, 01:59 PM   #32
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^ I would want measurements. Most brake pads are recommended to be replaced at 4mm or less. Rotors really should be replaced with pads, most can't be resurfaced.
No need to "resurface" anything unless it is warped.
Rotors will last for several pad changes even if one tracks the car without any maintenance required to them.
Two separate parts. Two different life spans. Cheers!
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Old 06-05-2020, 02:13 PM   #33
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No need to "resurface" anything unless it is warped.
Rotors will last for several pad changes even if one tracks the car without any maintenance required to them.
Two separate parts. Two different life spans. Cheers!
That's a great point. Seems simple, but I had it in my head that when I need brakes in the next few months, I would get pads and rotors done at the same time. But maybe all I need to do is new pads.

At what point in the rotor life though does its heat dissipation start to diminish? That would be the one reason I would consider pads and rotors at the same time still. The last thing I want is to just get new pads, then a few thousand miles later start having warping issues due to decreased heat dissipation.
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Old 06-05-2020, 02:19 PM   #34
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^ I would want measurements. Most brake pads are recommended to be replaced at 4mm or less. Rotors really should be replaced with pads, most can't be resurfaced.
Measurements sure, but these look to be more than fine. Everything else you said HELL NO!
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Old 06-05-2020, 03:49 PM   #35
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That's a great point. Seems simple, but I had it in my head that when I need brakes in the next few months, I would get pads and rotors done at the same time. But maybe all I need to do is new pads.

At what point in the rotor life though does its heat dissipation start to diminish? That would be the one reason I would consider pads and rotors at the same time still. The last thing I want is to just get new pads, then a few thousand miles later start having warping issues due to decreased heat dissipation.
Well, that would depend how the car is used?

I change my rotors based on heat checks, as i track my car and want to avoid a rotor possibly splitting.

My primary DD is a Tahoe, which weighs almost twice as much, has smaller rotors and goes 20+k miles per year. I suspect its rotors would last a good 5 yrs if not longer (but i trade them at about 3 or 4 yrs).

So, a lighter car, with bigger rotors, as a DD should last at least the same if not longer. Officially, a rotor has a minimum thickness after which it should be replaced. Ut keep in mind this is for a sports car expected to run on a race track at high speeds and hard braking 10 times per 1.5 min or so, over and over.

But i suspect 99% of folks out there have no idea about it and just keep driving their vehicles. I have never heard of a rotor not being able to slow down a vehicle due to its lack of heat dissipation under normal DD driving.
I suspect there are plenty of 10 yr old vehicles that have never seen new brakes, or fluid. Probably just a set of pads.

Bottom line and since this is a PERSONAL SAFETY issue, id say go by the min thickness spec and discard my musings.

Cheers!
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Old 06-05-2020, 11:43 PM   #36
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Dealer wants to change my 1LE brakes and rotors at 33k mile
This is BS, the 6 piston brakes are good.
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Old 06-05-2020, 11:50 PM   #37
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This is BS, the 6 piston brakes are good.
Funny you should say it given your Handle

But ya, i agree (obviously).
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Old 06-06-2020, 12:42 AM   #38
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Funny you should say it given your Handle

But ya, i agree (obviously).
It's faster.
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Old 06-06-2020, 08:24 AM   #39
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This is BS, the 6 piston brakes are good.
I'm pretty sure he meant the dealer wants to change the brake pads and rotors, not retro fit another entire brake system onto the car.
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Old 06-06-2020, 10:02 AM   #40
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I'm pretty sure he meant the dealer wants to change the brake pads and rotors, not retro fit another entire brake system onto the car.
Ah, well since they said brakes, I was just assuming they meant brakes.
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Old 06-07-2020, 09:44 AM   #41
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OEM rotors were like $350 each at Rock Auto plus some shipping.
Generally the prices I have seen are $387. GM parts direct and even amazon sellers for that much.
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Old 06-07-2020, 09:47 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by TheRealJA105 View Post
I'm going to be blunt, because i am good at that. None of your brakes look like they need replaced to me. Although posting the back side of your rear pads really doesn't show us anything Front Pads and all rotors look like they have alot of life left especially for street driving. Also please don't waste more of your money on any brake upgrades. The 1LE brakes are designed for hard track duty. NOTHING i repeat NOTHING you do to them on the street will even eclipse 50% of their capability. Not sure why you wasted money on SRF either, only needed on the track. Unless you are hooking up a trailer to the car, loading it to max towing capacity, and driving in mountains that is. If that's what you are doing, ignore what i said.
Thank you. I think you are right. Now my problem is that shudder. I need to take it to a proper mechanic instead of a dealer that wants to replace everything.
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