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Old 04-02-2020, 02:29 PM   #15
kropscamaro16


 
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Drives: 2016 1ss camaro
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nice so since you trade in those two cars what did you end up paying/getting the zl1 for?
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16 1SS NIGHTFALL GRAY METALLIC WITH NPP #BECAUSERACECAR #SAVETHEMANUALS
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Old 04-02-2020, 02:39 PM   #16
h018871
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Drives: 2020 ZL1 Green
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Got the supercharger lifted and supported with a block of wood and tried to install the PCV diverter. The 45deg barb fitting would not clear the water pump housing. Mine is a 2020 LT4 assembled in Bowling Green, so not sure if that makes a difference. For the fix I removed the barb, installed the PCV diverter then planned to install the barb fitting. There was more room, but not quite enough to spin the fitting. I filed the bottom edge of the fitting right at the end. I did not have to file past the 1st barb, this made me feel better.
In order to tighten the fitting into the diverter, I used a 11mm wrench and 1/4in extension.
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Old 04-02-2020, 02:47 PM   #17
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Good thing there is a dent in the SC snout casting, the hose fits right in!
I set up the bracket so that the can was in the lower position, otherwise it was really close to the hood when closed. It's still relatively easy to un-thread the can bottom to drain.
Finished pic at bottom
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Old 04-02-2020, 02:54 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kropscamaro16 View Post
nice so since you trade in those two cars what did you end up paying/getting the zl1 for?
Never get enough for trade ins and always pay too much for a new car, BUT the car is fantastic and I must have been comfortable enough because I did it.
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Old 04-02-2020, 03:01 PM   #19
TWG1
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Drives: 2019 Camaro ZLE
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Location: PENSACOLA, FL
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Love the build, love the color, love the car. That green is beautiful.

On the camber plates, do you have a plan for the stock adjustment vs the CP range? Ex: leave stock adjustment at 1* (effective) and add another 2* at CP’s? That could also give you ability to go Street/Track with addition of a toe adjustment. However, seeing how our car adjusts stock camber (friction only on hub bolts), I can imagine they’ll ‘walk’ to max camber over time, which would throw everything off.

You seem to have a clear plan in mind, so I figured I’d ask. I’m interested in same mod (CP’s) for added camber on track and better street manners between events. (I DIY my front alignments; don’t enjoy setting F camber on this car with stock setup). Again, great build and thanks for sharing.
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Old 04-02-2020, 03:40 PM   #20
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Thx TWG1
I do run a street alignment with the plates full outboard.
-1.0 camber with 0.2 total toe in for street. The camber plates allow just over 1.5 degrees adjustment when in the rear caster position. With the additional caster, I don't need as much camber to reduce wear and get better turn in. Also the toe moves out as the negative camber increases, that also helps turn in.

EDIT: with the additional caster, I rarely add more than a degree to the camber.........the exception is doing one side if there is a high speed sweeper on the track. An example is going into turn 1 after the front straight at TWS(RIP).
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Old 04-02-2020, 08:22 PM   #21
TWG1
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Thanks! Great setup and good description. Hadn’t thought about using the CP’s for caster benefit. Gonna have to put a set of those on my list!
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Old 04-10-2020, 04:48 PM   #22
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5th Gen & 6th Gen Wheels

5th Gen ZL1/1LE black wheels
Front: 20x10 w/ +23mm offset, part #22798741
Rear: 20x11 w/ +43mm offset, part #22798743

6th Gen ZL1 wheels
Front: 20x10 w/ +20mm offset, part #23355790
Rear: 20x11 w/ +43mm offset, part #23355801

The difference in the front offset moves the tire and rim inboard when 5th gen wheels are used. I have several sets of 5th gen wheels from the 1LE and want to use them. Additionally, some of the 5th gen wheels have 35 aspect ratio tires that are a little taller. With the larger diameter and them moving inboard, they are REAL close to the spring seat and it gets worse when running additional camber using the stock adjustment point.

I have a couple 5mm spacers, but was not comfortable tracking the car with less thread engagement on the lugs. Thx to RXtacy for this post
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=513759
I'm basically thrifty/cheap, so I found some longer studs for ~ $1 each. They were listed with correct dimensions.....so let's give them a go. Turns out that the part where the knurls are is too big to fit the hole in the hub. Crud! They were probably correctly dimensioned before they were cad plated. So, yes, I ordered the ARP 1/2 longer studs ARP # 100-7736.
Lesson learned, again.

OE nuts won't thread on enough to clamp a wheel without the spacer. Found some long enclosed nuts # 65216 at Jegs. Work like a champ.
EDIT: Not really like a champ, look at post 37 for details
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=37

I did not remove the hub or rotor, hammered a stud out and put the new one in with the Lisle stud installer #22800, one at a time. The Lisle tool makes it so easy, it was a good purchase.
Last pic is of a 5th gen wheel installed
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Last edited by h018871; 02-26-2021 at 03:40 PM. Reason: Corrected ZL1 wheel PNs
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Old 04-10-2020, 05:03 PM   #23
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Drives: 2020 ZL1 Green
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Snow Blocker?

Thx to FoundNemo for this
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=572018
A snow blocker doesn't sound necessary here in S Tx.
Pulled it off for better breathing.
This made it easier to remove the clips.

Big thx to CDFF (post #20) for the 'how to'
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Old 04-19-2020, 01:59 PM   #24
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Got a Scare Yesterday

The lower spring cushion appeared to have slipped, either that or it was misaligned when the camber plates were put in. I pulled the strut, compressed the spring realigned everything and noticed that the spring end did not lay down into the depression............
That's weird. So looked at the driver's side & it's the same. Scratched my head, I don't understand how the camber plates would change the way the spring sits in the lower perch. I started a post asking someone to take pictures of their front spring...........light bulb moment.....I wonder if it changes when the weight of the car compresses the spring? So, put it all together and set it on the ground. Sure enough, all good, crisis averted. No need for the panic post.
I've got too much time on my hands, that's for sure!
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Old 04-24-2020, 01:26 PM   #25
h018871
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TWG1 View Post
Thanks! Great setup and good description. Hadn’t thought about using the CP’s for caster benefit. Gonna have to put a set of those on my list!
TWG1, I just noticed your signature...........'67 Jag!?!?!?!? wicked
I've always wanted one, post a pic!
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Old 04-28-2020, 05:49 PM   #26
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TPMS: too much info

The 5th and 6th gen use different frequencies for the TPMS sensors, the new one is 433.92MHz
Item 1, the sensor is 13598463, it does not come with the nut (# 7 in the diagram)
The new nut is 13581557 and there is a "repair kit" that is usually called a grommet # 13507403

You can use the 5th gen nuts if you want, the threads are different length and the outside is smooth instead of a groove, but they will work. To further confuse matters, the repair kit comes with items 3-6 & 4 of #7 (the nuts). Very interesting. it's cheaper to get 4 sensors and one repair kit rather than getting the 4 nuts separately.

Slowly converting my 5th gen track gear to the new car.
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Old 05-17-2020, 05:07 PM   #27
carguy55

 
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Drives: 2018 1SS 1LE
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Got a nice building going. I usually go to COTA, ECR and MSRC. Only made it to MSCH 1 time so far.
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Old 05-18-2020, 08:24 AM   #28
h018871
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Thx carguy55. I was at MSRH this past weekend, we managed to dodge the rain both days! Outstanding weekend, this is the first time I've been out since early Feb.
Now that TWS is closed, my favorite tracks are Cresson and Eagles Canyon. Both of those are overnighters, it'll probably be a bit before I get back up there.
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