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Old 05-18-2020, 12:38 PM   #29
h018871
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Wheel Paint

This is not meant to blame or shame anyone

I got a set of really nice, freshly repainted wheels from a friend with Toyo R888Rs mounted on them. I was having trouble keeping proper lug nut torque, they seemed to be backing off?!?!?

Turns out that they painted the contact surface where the nut mates up to the wheel. OEM wheels don't have paint there. I did not know, nor did I notice it before running on the track. Now I know. Cleaned the paint off and made sure that was no over spray on the mating surface of the wheel where it goes against the rotors.
All better. Lesson learned
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Old 05-18-2020, 12:51 PM   #30
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A guy in a highly modded Subaru STI was parked by me at Eagles Canyon late last year. He came in early from a session with four VERY loose wheels. He had just had his powder coated and were not masked in the lug nut / wheel interface area. After manually scraping the powder coat off, no more issues for the weekend.
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Old 05-18-2020, 07:54 PM   #31
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There was a lady who experienced the same as me last weekend. Must have been a similar issue. Funny, what you don’t know you don’t know. Once you know it, it’s like “duh”.

LOL now I know it
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Old 06-16-2020, 02:06 PM   #32
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The 6th gen has less steel underneath that you can put a jack and jack stands on. I wasn't very comfortable jacking it up, particularly when jacking up the second side.
A few weeks ago, Costco knocked $200 off of the QuickJack BL-5000SLX. My daughter in law ordered it for me. Sweet!
I got a set of jack pads specific to the 6th gen and installed them with loctite and waited for the QJ to arrive. Set it up following the directions and lifted the car. It did take a bit of fiddling the first time to make sure it was contacting the car in the proper spot.
The jack comes with 2" and 3" rubber blocks, they crushed quite a bit and allowed the car to move front and back with repeated cycles. So I built some wooden blocks to fit in the jack pockets out of some scrap I had. Very stable now and easy to use/setup.
I went ahead and sprung for the hooks to hang them on the wall, that's a great accessory.
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Old 06-16-2020, 02:20 PM   #33
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I went up to Cresson last week for a single day with double-up sessions. I got 8 sessions in! It was +100F ambient, but a great day
On the way home I had a flat on the tire trailer. I'm glad that I carry a spare!
I have some motorcycle style tire bars/spoons and so when I got home I was able to remove the old tire and mount a new one. I definitely got an upper body workout that afternoon!
All set to go to COTA for an after dark event next month. I'm looking forward to having some glowing rotor pictures!
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Old 06-16-2020, 04:07 PM   #34
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Geoff, there are trailer TPMS kits from Dill and others. I have a Dill one that uses OEM style TPMS sensors (bolt in like ours) vs. ones that screw on the end of the valve stem that I don't trust. My kit can be 1 to 10 sensors. I have it with six - four road wheels and two spares. Shows temperature and pressure for each.

Of course, it won't catch a sudden blow out or delam always, but, the last flat I had, it warned me in enough time to slow down and pull off the road into a parking lot.

I throw the tires in the car or drive to events on the tires I'm running 90% of the time, but, when I do tow, I like have the trailer tire info.
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Old 06-16-2020, 05:11 PM   #35
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Thx for the info. It's interesting that the Dill sensors operate at the same frequency as the 6th gen, long range 433.92MHz, but use a chip instead of a programmer.
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Old 06-17-2020, 02:58 PM   #36
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The dealer called me today, LOOK WHAT SHOWED UP!
I think that I placed the bushing order in early April........it's been so long I can't remember.
I had also ordered the front lower control arms and they came in the next day. Time to get all this in
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Old 06-24-2020, 06:50 PM   #37
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Lug Nut update

Flashback to post #22
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=22

The longer lug nuts I was able to find have a smaller & shorter contact area at the cone. I decided to modify some 5th gen nuts that I had.

1st, thread the nut onto a suspension bolt that I had lying around
2nd, force the nut down onto the bolt
3rd, wiggle the 'disk' off
4th, grind the the 'pooched' out portion off, being careful not to overheat the stainless cup
5th, check fit to make sure that there is no interference

This way, I'm confident of the correct torque to use and the strength of the nuts.
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Old 06-24-2020, 09:33 PM   #38
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Cut the lead-in bullet nose off of the ARP 100-7736's and use stock lug nuts, or better yet, sexy black McGard closed end. With the bullet nose cut off, they're right around stock overall length but with the extra 12-13mm of threads.

The McGard's can be hit over and over with an impact without chipping. PN 64024 for a four-pack.

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Old 06-30-2020, 05:18 PM   #39
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Rear tow point

I finally got the rear tow point on the car. It is supposed to be behind the license plate. But, I feel as though the plate threads will wear out over time causing angst on how to repair. So I moved it to below the crash bar just inboard of the reflector. The slot was cut in the diffuser.
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Old 06-30-2020, 05:59 PM   #40
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GM solid cradle bushing kit 84341929

This was quite a job. Much thx to all that went before me. Most especially to the guy that posted the video on removal of the old bushings with a two arm puller. That worked like a champ! Didn't even need to heat the cradle to soften the glue, awesome!
The cradle had to be dropped, this means that the exhaust & driveshaft had to come out of the car. The garage floor was full.
The cheap trans jack was used for both the exhaust and cradle. Finding the balance point for the exhaust was pure luck, I got it close enough. supporting the cradle where it was flat was more of a challenge, the first pic is how it ended up. I did not need to disconnect the differential cooling lines, the clips were removed along the trans tunnel and the lines hung free. Plenty of slack to drop the cradle enough to get the puller on the bushings.
I wasn't sure how stable the car would be on the QJ with the rear cradle out, so I placed jack stands under the engine 'just in case'. The car did not move, the stands did not get any load transferred to them. Reassuring.
Something else: the alignment was off before the cradle was dropped. Not sure what difference that makes, but it is correct now. This is in regards to using correct sized pins to line up holes in the body and cradle.
It was not difficult, just takes time working on your back. I will get the car aligned tomorrow and have COTA planned for the 18th.
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File Type: pdf GM solid cradle bushing kit 84341929.pdf (12.36 MB, 2 views)
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Old 06-30-2020, 06:05 PM   #41
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front lower front control links

These were an easy swap, the most fiddly part was getting the bolts out. It requires loosening the aux coolers. Put weight on the car and torque up the bolts. Very straight forward
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