[Stephen12ZL1]

Originally Posted by Dabjbr

SPL rear toe rods with eccentric lockout

Just installed them (along with solid subframe bushings) and have a couple questions before I get an alignment. Thanks in advance!

1) The kit came with a pair of bolts and nuts. Do I use them for the subframe side? The instructions state to reuse OEM bolts at both the knuckle and subframe but then I wonder, why did SPL provide these??

* My gut tells me this is an error. They’re probably issuing the same instructions for both the rod-only package and the set with lockouts.

2) Should I use jam nuts in addition to the Allen bolts? If so, what are the sizes and where can I get a set? With one side having reverse threads, I’m guessing no one local store will have hem.

3) I’ve heard concerns of squeaking in the future so I picked up a can of Amsoil HD-MP. I guess I’ll spray some on after the alignment? Anything else I should do for protection?

factory bolt closest to the tire end of the toe rod and new bolt/nut on the subframe side with the eccentric lockout plate (square) placed in the slot.

[Dabjbr]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

factory bolt closest to the tire end of the toe rod and new bolt/nut on the subframe side with the eccentric lockout plate (square) placed in the slot.

Thanks for the confirmation! I figured that made the most sense and did exactly that. Now doing the strut mod up front so I can get a little more camber all around.

Going slow because Northern California is on fire. 111 tomorrow and 112 Tuesday. Luckily we catch a break with a mild 108 Wednesday :/

[Texan4iu]

Has anyone installed these bushings? If so, how was the install? My stock bushings are getting soft & will need to replace in the near future.

[That1guy_tim]

Originally Posted by Texan4iu

Has anyone installed these bushings? If so, how was the install? My stock bushings are getting soft & will need to replace in the near future.

Probably the hardest one to change.. Its a PITA

[Texan4iu]

Originally Posted by That1guy_tim

Probably the hardest one to change.. Its a PITA

Well crap!! Not what I wanted to hear. Lol

[carguy55]

Remember most of the OEM suspension bolts are TTY and need to be replaced with new ones, this includes when SPL says "using OEM hardware". Look at the suspension part number mega thread for more details or the service manual.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...y#post10210721

[Texan4iu]

Wanted to give a quick update on the SPL Front Caster Rod Bushings (see pic above) and increased caster. Got them installed and new alignment settings. Went to ECR on Saturday and car felt amazing. No issue with bump steer as I was concerned having > 9* caster might cause that. Car felt better than ever.

[That1guy_tim]

Originally Posted by Texan4iu

Wanted to give a quick update on the SPL Front Caster Rod Bushings (see pic above) and increased caster. Got them installed and new alignment settings. Went to ECR on Saturday and car felt amazing. No issue with bump steer as I was concerned having > 9* caster might cause that. Car felt better than ever.

How'd the swap go ?

[Texan4iu]

Originally Posted by That1guy_tim

How'd the swap go ?

I didn’t even try it bc you said it was a PITA. 👍 I did hear them say they were putting the bushings in the freezer before installing them. I’m guessing that shrinks them a tad so they’ll go in easier?

[Slurpee]

Has anyone installed the rear upper arms with eccentric lockout? I saw a YouTube video of the eccentric lockout install and he had a hard time with it.

[Christian1LE]

Originally Posted by Slurpee

Has anyone installed the rear upper arms with eccentric lockout? I saw a YouTube video of the eccentric lockout install and he had a hard time with it.

I have, wasn't too bad.

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by Christian1LE

I have, wasn't too bad.

Great, thanks. Is the re-used OEM hardware on the rod end or the clevis end? Want to buy the right bolts since they are TTY.

[Christian1LE]

Originally Posted by Slurpee

Great, thanks. Is the re-used OEM hardware on the rod end or the clevis end? Want to buy the right bolts since they are TTY.

I reused all my bolts. From what I remember the kit will come with bolts for the lower arm lockout (where OEM camber adjustment is made). And it will come with new bolts for the clevis end for your SPL part.

You would need to buy new ones for both rod ends. You also need to disconnect the lower part of the rear strut to drop the lower arms I think. I'm not sure if that one is a TTY bolt.

[cdrptrks]

Originally Posted by Christian1LE

I reused all my bolts. From what I remember the kit will come with bolts for the lower arm lockout (where OEM camber adjustment is made).

Yes the 1 bolt that locks out the factory toe adjustment point on each side is included.

I would highly recommend replacing the 1 OEM outer toe link to knuckle bolt on each side as they're TTY. Also I'd recommend using the torque + angle from the shop manual (74 lb ft + 105°) rather than just 74 lb ft recommended in the SPL directions especially if reusing the bolts (which again I don't recommend). Either way, it is very important to put a wrench or socket/ratchet on these bolts regularly to make sure they're not coming loose to prevent a snapped bolt like I experienced last year. One more session on track that day and I probably would have crashed but I got lucky that my bolt snapped at low speed leaving a gas station that night instead.

I'd further recommend using loctite both in the hole and on the threads although it is not called for in the shop manual. I used orange because red is a pain to deal with in my experience. I went with about 100 lb ft with loctite (vs. 132 lb ft dry with reused bolts to reach the specified torque + angle) and they haven't loosened after 5 track days.

*Paint pen markings don't accurately show tightness on this bolt because of the stuff sandwiched in between so don't make the same mistake I did of relying on those...make sure to physically check bolt tightness.

My installer reused my bolts and torqued them "to spec" (I'm guessing 74 lb ft with no additional angle). He advised that it would be a good idea to replace the bolts eventually but he said he used red loctite and that they'd done the same thing before on other cars without issues. My bolt snapped less than 3 months after it was reused when the SPL rear toe arms with eccentric lockouts were installed. There was only evidence of red loctite on one side but apparently it was only used on the bolt threads and not in the threaded hole because the bolt on that side was loose too but it hadn't snapped yet. I also reused this bolt once previously (only the side that I found loose but not snapped) with the stock toe link when I replaced a failed rear hub; I torqued it to the previously mentioned 74 lb ft + 105° that time and had no issues but the stock toe links probably put less force on the bolt because of the rubber bushing.

11609598 is the outer toe link to knuckle bolt part number. You will need one for each side.