[Vigilante375]

I'd just bite the bullet and buy the ADM reservoir. Just install it, fill it with coolant then drive the car around and let it purge itself.

[LT4Greg]

Greg, if I were you I would take your ZL1 to a dealership and have it checked out. You go screwing around under the hood and they could deny any new car warranty claims that yours might have. That’s my advice but you do what’s best for you and your ZL1.

[Greg83]

Originally Posted by Vigilante375

I'd just bite the bullet and buy the ADM reservoir. Just install it, fill it with coolant then drive the car around and let it purge itself.

Yes, you are probably 100% correct but I’d like to have it all original when the dealer looks at it at the 500 mile oil change. I know the ADM shouldn’t matter at all but I know how silly these dealers can get.

[raptor5244]

Originally Posted by Greg83

So I noticed today while doing a couple pulls that my boost gauge would go up to approx 9.5 PSI and hold there but as my RPM’s climbed closer to 4000 RPM’s, the gauge would start to fluctuate and drop like 2 PSI, and then jump back to 9.5 PSI. Certainly seems like there might be more air in the system. I will keep purge bleeding it. If I buy the adapter to bleed it into a two liter bottle, how long do I let the car run with that adapter and bottle attached?

Keep in mind that the boost will fluctuate as part of the torque management system. So depending which gear and RPM you are at it may pull some boost. I would think a 3rd gear pull should give you full steady boost. Also make sure your foot is all the way down and you are not lifting a little bit causing the valve to close and lower boost.

[CW3SF]

The ADM reservoir is a lot easier. You purge the ADM by letting the car idle with the reservoir cap removed. It only take a couple of minutes at idle to completely purge the system.

[Greg83]

Originally Posted by LT4Greg

Greg, if I were you I would take your ZL1 to a dealership and have it checked out. You go screwing around under the hood and they could deny any new car warranty claims that yours might have. That’s my advice but you do what’s best for you and your ZL1.

I totally agree!! I have only bled the supercharger and won’t do anything else. It will go to the dealer in another 250 miles when it’s due for its first free oil change. If they can’t fix it then it will go to Nickey Camaro for an inspection and some dyno numbers. Definitely don’t want to mess with my warranty.

[Greg83]

Originally Posted by raptor5244

Keep in mind that the boost will fluctuate as part of the torque management system. So depending which gear and RPM you are at it may pull some boost. I would think a 3rd gear pull should give you full steady boost. Also make sure your foot is all the way down and you are not lifting a little bit causing the valve to close and lower boost.

Yes, I noticed it during a 5th gear pull on the Hwy. Not sure if the fluctuation is normal but it seems strange. I appreciate everyone’s help and don’t want to keep wasting everyone’s time… I’ll let you guys know after the dealer looks at it.

[eldersCAMARO]

my question is, who built the engine?

[Greg83]

Originally Posted by eldersCAMARO

my question is, who built the engine?

I was wondering if that question would be asked. I don’t want to accuse anyone of anything just yet. I’m not even 100% sure I have a real problem, maybe I’m just remembering the experiences of the past ZL1’s wrong and expecting to much, or maybe I just need to get some more break-in miles on it and drive it harder… I wish I had another ZL1 easily available for comparison. For now I’ll just put some more miles on it, have the dealer check it (doubt they will find anything), then have it dyno’d to get some concrete data and numbers. I could be wrong but it sure feels like it’s not getting full boost and maybe even pulling timing. I like the idea of getting the car dyno’d either way, if nothing else just to know and see my cars real numbers and know it’s performing to it highest potential.

[Tfjenkins]

Yes, take it to a responsible dealership. Ask them to run any applicable bulletins. This may identify an issue you have and any others they identify. I took my SS 1LE (under 3k miles) in for a few issues, there was a bulletin covering every one of them as a known issue, now my exhaust is being replaced warranty.

[WhiteMale]

TO be fair this guy hasn't or barely has driven his car yet your'e trying to fix something that is unlikely to be broken.

[Gunkk]

Originally Posted by WhiteMale

TO be fair this guy hasn't or barely has driven his car yet your'e trying to fix something that is unlikely to be broken.

Hey, man ... you're buzz killing our "guess the problem over the internet" fun with all your rational reasonable-ness of common sense.

But yeah, that's why I suggested OP get some data via diagnostics and oil testing. If there's a problem, he has data to take to GM and get it sorted. If there isn't as we expect, then he can sleep better with the bonus of having a nice dyno sheet and lab results to frame and hang on the office wall.

[Greg83]

Originally Posted by Gunkk

Hey, man ... you're buzz killing our "guess the problem over the internet" fun with all your rational reasonable-ness of common sense.

But yeah, that's why I suggested OP get some data via diagnostics and oil testing. If there's a problem, he has data to take to GM and get it sorted. If there isn't as we expect, then he can sleep better with the bonus of having a nice dyno sheet and lab results to frame and hang on the office wall.

I agree. Thanks guys! I’ll let you know the results!

[Xelor]

Op
Did you back side it yet from 50-120 ?
I would do that a few times. Let it breathe