Driveshaft and Axle Strength

[morepowerjoe]

Ok now I would like to know who out there is making roughly 500 whp and still have the stock driveshaft and axles on their automatic? What I really would like to know is if you guys think I will break one of the two with sticky drag radials? I do have stock gears with a 3600 stall converter. Thanks.

[CamaroCracka]

Driveshaft will be fine. Can't say for the axles as I've never run stock axles with sticky tires.

I run roughly 800whp with slicks and a manual with a factory drive shaft.

[morepowerjoe]

Originally Posted by CamaroCracka

Driveshaft will be fine. Can't say for the axles as I've never run stock axles with sticky tires.

I run roughly 800whp with slicks and a manual with a factory drive shaft.

Thanks a lot for the info on the driveshaft, that puts my mind at ease. Well at least I bought an extra pair of oem ac delco axles last year before that were all gone. Lol

[acutron42]

From what I have read here & also discussed with Andrew Cammer, deflection in the cradle will be your biggest enemy. Hard to say how long parts will live depending on how hard you are on them. I am upgrading to Hendrix solid bushings, DSS driveshaft & G-Force Renegade axles along with a Truetrac. It might be overkill but I plan on running the 1/8 quite a bit this summer on drag radials.

[morepowerjoe]

Originally Posted by acutron42

From what I have read here & also discussed with Andrew Cammer, deflection in the cradle will be your biggest enemy. Hard to say how long parts will live depending on how hard you are on them. I am upgrading to Hendrix solid bushings, DSS driveshaft & G-Force Renegade axles along with a Truetrac. It might be overkill but I plan on running the 1/8 quite a bit this summer on drag radials.

Yeah I have bmr poly subframe bushings, trailing arms, and toe rods. I also have new Ac Delco axles. But I just don't know.

[acutron42]

I hear you there Joe. I thought long & hard if I wanted to spend another 3k+. It was a very hard decision.

[Moto-Mojo]

This pains me because for 49 years I've been in - and now retired, from the driveshaft business. For decades we used u-joint series to spec HP, torque, angle, etc. (1310, 1350,1410, etc.) And tube dia. & length. But don't recall ever seeing a flex disk ('guibo') like our Camaros have being equated to a particular u-joint series. And they've been around a long time. Mercedes was using them in the 80's. But generally speaking, they're tough SOB's. Until they're not.

I'd have to believe a fudge factor was built into the stock shaft. But Cracka's must be getting out toward the limits. Roughly double the HP of the OE. Good to know they can handle it.

[morepowerjoe]

Originally Posted by Moto-Mojo

This pains me because for 49 years I've been in - and now retired, from the driveshaft business. For decades we used u-joint series to spec HP, torque, angle, etc. (1310, 1350,1410, etc.) And tube dia. & length. But don't recall ever seeing a flex disk ('guibo') like our Camaros have being equated to a particular u-joint series. And they've been around a long time. Mercedes was using them in the 80's. But generally speaking, they're tough SOB's. Until they're not.

I'd have to believe a fudge factor was built into the stock shaft. But Cracka's must be getting out toward the limits. Roughly double the HP of the OE. Good to know they can handle it.

Thank you sir for your thoughts.

[CamaroCracka]

Originally Posted by Moto-Mojo

don't recall ever seeing a flex disk ('guibo') like our Camaros have being equated to a particular u-joint series. And they've been around a long time. Mercedes was using them in the 80's. But generally speaking, they're tough SOB's. Until they're not.

And then they are hard to find replacements for.

On the axles, many have said being lowered puts a lot more stress on the CV. I'm only lowered half an inch in the rear, and when I broke a ZL1 axle, the CV itself was fine. I twisted off the splined end that goes into the hub. Maybe I should not have reused the axle nut.

[Moto-Mojo]

Originally Posted by CamaroCracka

And then they are hard to find replacements for.

On the axles, many have said being lowered puts a lot more stress on the CV. I'm only lowered half an inch in the rear, and when I broke a ZL1 axle, the CV itself was fine. I twisted off the splined end that goes into the hub. Maybe I should not have reused the axle nut.

There may have been - and even intended to be, a stress riser at the spline end. For decades we told customers that the driveshaft was the "fuse" in the drivetrain. Tubing was spec'd and actually intended to twist and or break before trans and diffs were destroyed. It didn't always work out that way though!

[trashbasket]

Tires are the fuse in the drive-train. At least that's what I've found to be true. You hook, you break : (


Stock SS Axle or CV joint exploded on 1-2 Shift with mere street tires. This was at 650whp on the street. I think you are safer because of automagic. Once I got the renegade axles I learned the diff doesn't hold up too well and was just trading one weak point for another. So depends on how much further you want to go. Also the axles can be hard to get and can wait 7-8 weeks for so take that into account if decide to keep rolling the dice.

[morepowerjoe]

Originally Posted by trashbasket

Tires are the fuse in the drive-train. At least that's what I've found to be true. You hook, you break : (


Stock SS Axle or CV joint exploded on 1-2 Shift with mere street tires. This was at 650whp on the street. I think you are safer because of automagic. Once I got the renegade axles I learned the diff doesn't hold up too well and was just trading one weak point for another. So depends on how much further you want to go. Also the axles can be hard to get and can wait 7-8 weeks for so take that into account if decide to keep rolling the dice.

I've heard that auto's are easier on the drive train but don't know really how true that is. I actually have a second set of new Ac Delco axles just sitting in the garage.

[trashbasket]

Originally Posted by morepowerjoe

I've heard that auto's are easier on the drive train but don't know really how true that is.

yea, thats my understanding as well.*If you have spares, then rock n roll. As others said, driveshaft would be fine.

Could always do the diff bushings to help. I think they even make offsets for lowered cars. Then your diff will sing its song throughout the whole car on the highway. Its not annoying at all.

*racecar noises*

[Moto-Mojo]

Originally Posted by trashbasket

Tires are the fuse in the drive-train. At least that's what I've found to be true. You hook, you break : (


Stock SS Axle or CV joint exploded on 1-2 Shift with mere street tires. This was at 650whp on the street. I think you are safer because of automagic. Once I got the renegade axles I learned the diff doesn't hold up too well and was just trading one weak point for another. So depends on how much further you want to go. Also the axles can be hard to get and can wait 7-8 weeks for so take that into account if decide to keep rolling the dice.

You broke your tires? Send pics!