[Brianw36]

I just saw a waterless coolant that doesn't boil until 375 degrees. Has anyone used this in our LT1? Would it be worth changing out oem coolant?

[thescreensavers]

50:50 coolant/water mix has a boiling point of 223F. Now add in 20PSI (On our coolant Caps) you are now at 275F to boil.

If your coolant is hitting 275F say goodbye to your engine.

With a properly functioning cooling system the OEM coolant mix is more than sufficient, people that been taking their cars to the track haven't had any issues with coolant temps so there is no reason to change.

[gippy87]

less worried about the temp it boils at and more worried about its efficiency to transfer heat. As far as I knew plain water was the best at doing that if you live in an area where it wont freeze.

[thescreensavers]

Originally Posted by gippy87

less worried about the temp it boils at and more worried about its efficiency to transfer heat. As far as I knew plain water was the best at doing that if you live in an area where it wont freeze.

Coolant serves anti corrosion benefits as well, your cannot run straight water.

[Brianw36]

It seems like it will keep system clean and efficient. It can easily handle the high temps of the parts and allow it to stay cooler. Only problem I see is $50 a gallon.

[thescreensavers]

Originally Posted by Brianw36

It seems like it will keep system clean and efficient. It can easily handle the high temps of the parts and allow it to stay cooler. Only problem I see is $50 a gallon.

When tested on an LS1 it had negative effects

By having engine cylinder head temperatures 128oF hotter with the Evans product, a number of performance setbacks were observed: (1) the octane requirement was increased by 5-7 numbers, (2) the computerized ignition system retarded timing by 8-10o to avoid trace knock, (3) horsepower was correspondingly reduced by 4-5%, as confirmed on a chassis dyno.

http://www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm

I do not see a reason to run this at all.

[Brianw36]

Originally Posted by thescreensavers

When tested on an LS1 it had negative effects



http://www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm

I do not see a reason to run this at all.

Wow. Great Info. Thanks for sharing.

[EFI Tuning]

I'd be concerned about corrosion issues. I have no proof a given product wouldn't work but GM goes to great lengths to ensure the factory coolant prevents corrosion. From a thermal management perspective I've seen no reason to deviate from what GM specifies. GM did a great job on the cooling systems.

Tim

[EV2DEMON]

Originally Posted by thescreensavers

Coolant serves anti corrosion benefits as well, your cannot run straight water.

Sure you can, just make sure it's distilled. I've run straight water with a bit of water pump lube in the race car for years. Most race tracks don't allow anti-freeze.

[thescreensavers]

Originally Posted by EV2DEMON

Sure you can, just make sure it's distilled. I've run straight water with a bit of water pump lube in the race car for years. Most race tracks don't allow anti-freeze.

Most racecars will run anti corrosive additives(waterwetter) before and after the competition. Straight distilled water will still corrode. Aluminum blocks, iron blocks you name it. The water pump lube you are using likely contains anti corrosive additives.

I've had aluminum blocks sent to be rebuilt where that water jackets we're damaged because it was used only with water all the time.

[BrianL]

I always used water wetter back in the day

[Lerch98]

The material scientists here at work said not to use distilled water, as that it is erosive. Water dissolves just about anything. Distilled and De ionized water is just looking for ions. We have to use stainless steel piping and fixtures as it will erode away brass.
Since I have a well, and water with high mineral content, I use filtered bottle water. I have used distilled water, but then I mix it with a percentage of well water so it has some ions, then mix it with dexcool.
As for waterless coolant, I know that is not compatible with the factory or glycol-water coolants.