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Old 09-11-2021, 04:30 PM   #15
LiqTenExp

 
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I wouldn't say it is extending anything, just preventing leaks via damage during install with new seals.

I know my replacement injector set went in like butter when replaced after using that tool and I have no regrets or concerns. The tool definitely shaped and compressed them properly, per the service manual prior to install. If something went south with a seal and I had to pull my blower off again and replace both the hardlines again I would have wished I saw this thread. The hardlines alone cost 3x that tool let alone 2-3 hours each way to R/R the blower.

Mine were replaced once using the method you are suggesting and I had either a leaking seal or bad injector in cylinder #3. I'm was not taking the chance for 45 bucks.
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Old 09-12-2021, 05:45 PM   #16
Eldi Z

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arpad_m View Post
As far as I know, it isn't used for boosting voltage so much as preventing voltage drop at high loads, which helps preserve a healthy safety margin. Whether or not it's "critical", I am not able to tell, but (as per Ted Jannetty's advice) my car has one to make sure it's on the safe side of fueling.
Yep, I can see the R-WHP in your sig and understand the requirement. Clear. In my case though, I am planning no more than stock ZL1 R-WHP levels which should be just about ~ 560-560 WHP @ 93 Pump gas?
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Old 09-12-2021, 06:02 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Joshinator99 View Post
Depends on your desired power level IMO. If you're going for low to mid 600s WHP then you can generally tune the FSCM with the LT4 in tank pump and be fine. If you want more you definitely want the JMS.
Plans are a modest 550-560 RWHP @ 93 Pump gas. Not adding Meth nor Ethanol to the mix - so I guess advancing Ign. timing too much is not an option, so more "safe" WHP than that will probably not be happening anyway.
The setups that I am considering:

1.) Centri: Procharger's "CARB Compliant" kit (the one that retains the stock upper part of the airbox), P1X (instead of the 1SC) + Stg.2 FMIC. Boost level with these kits is set at ~ 7 PSI as far as I am aware?
Or
2.) PD: Stock GM material - TVS2300 / ZL1/Z06/CTS-V style + ADM /Weapon-X, Etc. "installation kit" (mostly stock GM ZL1 parts + adapter plates / various other fasteners, relocation harnesses, etc.)

Main concern with PC's Centri option is, that it shares the 6-PK accessories drive belt (I.E. with the alternator, AC, Etc.) - I am not sure about the reliability and sturdiness of such a system But maybe, with only 7 # of boost it will hold up OK?
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Old 09-12-2021, 06:10 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by LiqTenExp View Post
Make sure to get an injector seal tool to pre-size them before insertion! Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088TLZBRT The part labeled 245-4 in the picture is really all you need for new injectors.

Check here for pipe part #s: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=17 I replaced all of LT4 injectors with a new set this year, one in Cylinder #3 was causing misfires, did the whole set.
Thanks for the Heads-up
I was surely going to replace the hard-pipes, but was not aware of this injector insertion tool How much does this tool cost? The link in AWS reads "no availability"
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Old 09-12-2021, 06:15 PM   #19
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[QUOTE=Eldi Z;11069722]
Or
2.) PD: Stock GM material - TVS2300 / ZL1/Z06/CTS-V style

Mistake! meant the Stock TVS1700 (1.7 L) Charger of course....
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Old 09-12-2021, 07:15 PM   #20
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https://www.amazon.com/Injector-Repl...05-18683AA000/
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Old 09-12-2021, 07:16 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eldi Z View Post
Yep, I can see the R-WHP in your sig and understand the requirement. Clear. In my case though, I am planning no more than stock ZL1 R-WHP levels which should be just about ~ 560-560 WHP @ 93 Pump gas?
I had the JMS voltage booster already at 560 rwhp, it's relatively cheap insurance and gives peace of mind.

(Plus you know how it goes, once this is done, you'll start wondering after a couple passes at the dragstrip what 700 hp feels like, then 850 hp becomes very interesting all of a sudden... Just look at the specs and horsepower numbers in this very thread LiqTenExp is very modest with his signature, but rest assured that his car is a beast.)
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Old 09-13-2021, 05:28 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by LiqTenExp View Post
I got a "page not found" from AWS.
Can you re-check the link?
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Old 09-13-2021, 05:35 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by arpad_m View Post
I had the JMS voltage booster already at 560 rwhp, it's relatively cheap insurance and gives peace of mind.

(Plus you know how it goes, once this is done, you'll start wondering after a couple passes at the dragstrip what 700 hp feels like, then 850 hp becomes very interesting all of a sudden... Just look at the specs and horsepower numbers in this very thread LiqTenExp is very modest with his signature, but rest assured that his car is a beast.)
I guess that I understand the direction, however (and unfortunately...) where I am stationed right now there are no strips, so I shall have to remain content with the 560-580 RWHP on the streets for a while ;-)
In addition, I understand that the FSCM/CCM is still tunable with a satisfactory effect for this range of boost level (~7-9 PSI) and WHP level...
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Old 05-18-2022, 06:15 PM   #24
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I bought the Amazon seal tool listed in this thread, looks cheap/China and reviews are sketchy with folks tearing up seals. So I ordered the OTC kit and will return the $30 Amazon one. $150 but they are prob the OEM supplier. I’ll skimp on some tools but high pressure injector seals doesn’t like like a good one.

What are folks doing to remove/install injector clips? GM tool for that is $193. I think I’d just buy new clips and be careful installing.
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Old 05-21-2022, 12:39 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eldi Z View Post
Plans are a modest 550-560 RWHP @ 93 Pump gas. Not adding Meth nor Ethanol to the mix - so I guess advancing Ign. timing too much is not an option, so more "safe" WHP than that will probably not be happening anyway.
The setups that I am considering:

1.) Centri: Procharger's "CARB Compliant" kit (the one that retains the stock upper part of the airbox), P1X (instead of the 1SC) + Stg.2 FMIC. Boost level with these kits is set at ~ 7 PSI as far as I am aware?
Or
2.) PD: Stock GM material - TVS2300 / ZL1/Z06/CTS-V style + ADM /Weapon-X, Etc. "installation kit" (mostly stock GM ZL1 parts + adapter plates / various other fasteners, relocation harnesses, etc.)

Main concern with PC's Centri option is, that it shares the 6-PK accessories drive belt (I.E. with the alternator, AC, Etc.) - I am not sure about the reliability and sturdiness of such a system But maybe, with only 7 # of boost it will hold up OK?
I have the p1sc1 installed with the factory box setup and stage 2 intercooler and I'm making 565 rwhp on the LT1 fueling with 6.5 lbs of boost. If you go with the P1x setup stage 2 and your upgrading to the LT4 fueling you'll make 600 easy at the full 7lbs boost. After that you will be looking at getting internal to the engine with pistons and cam work that can get you into 700 range .

I chose not to go LT4 but now that I have that in site I may do it at a later time. I'm in no rush that 565 hits different and its a ball to drive as is but from the start 600 was my goal. Only time will tell.
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Old 05-23-2022, 09:25 PM   #26
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Highly recommend this tool. The bore is machined to a smooth finish unlike the Chinese junk I bought on Amazon. 👍
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Old 05-24-2022, 06:41 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrome383Z View Post
I bought the Amazon seal tool listed in this thread, looks cheap/China and reviews are sketchy with folks tearing up seals. So I ordered the OTC kit and will return the $30 Amazon one. $150 but they are prob the OEM supplier. I’ll skimp on some tools but high pressure injector seals doesn’t like like a good one.

What are folks doing to remove/install injector clips? GM tool for that is $193. I think I’d just buy new clips and be careful installing.
If i recall, the new injectors come with new clips. I just carefully used a large flathead screwdriver and needlenose pliers to remove them. No issues. Putting them back on was pretty easy by hand. A couple of soft taps with the screwdriver handle to get them fully aligned and seated.

Also, i did not use a seal compression tool. It's not required, but prob still a good idea.
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