[srcstc]

Thanks for the how-to. It was pretty easy to do.
Used this mirror tap for the hardwire:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221707488314

Only $10.50 shipped and worked great.

[Adrian97c]

Now that I used mirror tap for my radar... how could I also hardware a dash cam?


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[srcstc]

Originally Posted by Adrian97c

Now that I used mirror tap for my radar... how could I also hardware a dash cam?


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You could run a wire from the fuse box in the engine bay.


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[TDS]

Originally Posted by CME73

Installing a hardwired Escort RD is pretty easy with their smartcord. Its pretty nice to have a button located other than the top of the windshield, which is the main reason going this route.

The most difficult part was finding a switched wire near the kickpanel. Im used to a fuse box being located around there never the less, there is one.

First thing I started with was finding a good location to mount the Mute button. I found the best spot was just below the push start button under the small step there. for the cleanest install, unscrew the mute button housing, and pull the shell apart. Take care in doing so as the decal in front is attached to both sides. once apart find the location you want to attach under the step there and drill a small 1/8th hole through the top shell, and the step in the dash. If you want to remove it later, there will be no visible mark, being located under the step.






with a small screw (i used a small panhead) attach the top of the shell to the dash. put the button and bottom shell back together and replace the single screw. route the wires into the dash by the right side of the steering wheel.

the ground wire is run to where the hood release is. there is a screw holding the plastic to the subframe, remove that and put the ring of the ground wire there in between the plastic and subframe. replace screw.



for the power wire, the switched 12v one I found is the green with purple stripe wire coming out of the black connector (in the picture its the one with the purple snap connector attached)



Next run the "telephone" wire up the a-pillar on the door side. Its relatively easy to pull the weather stripping back and push the wire in. At the top of the a-pillar, push the headliner in to snake the wire to the other side of the a-pillar. lastly run the wire by way of the headliner to where ever you place your RD. Push leftover wire under the headliner.



If you have any questions let me know.

Thank You so much, I found this thread after not being to find power down there for hours. Thanks Again!

[deButler]

Originally Posted by CME73

Installing a hardwired Escort RD is pretty easy with their smartcord. Its pretty nice to have a button located other than the top of the windshield, which is the main reason going this route.

The most difficult part was finding a switched wire near the kickpanel. Im used to a fuse box being located around there never the less, there is one.

Used all your info and completed my install with little to no issues. Only problem I ran into was that the tap wire was a very small size and my wire taps were too large and had to go pickup some smaller ones.

I installed it on the C7 Blendmount with the Escort Hardwire cord with Blue light of course (HBM SS). Really like having the mute button handy right underneath the engine start switch.

Thanks for the great pics and details. Made installation a breeze.

[jamoka3]

Originally Posted by CME73

Installing a hardwired Escort RD is pretty easy with their smartcord. Its pretty nice to have a button located other than the top of the windshield, which is the main reason going this route.

The most difficult part was finding a switched wire near the kickpanel. Im used to a fuse box being located around there never the less, there is one.

First thing I started with was finding a good location to mount the Mute button. I found the best spot was just below the push start button under the small step there. for the cleanest install, unscrew the mute button housing, and pull the shell apart. Take care in doing so as the decal in front is attached to both sides. once apart find the location you want to attach under the step there and drill a small 1/8th hole through the top shell, and the step in the dash. If you want to remove it later, there will be no visible mark, being located under the step.






with a small screw (i used a small panhead) attach the top of the shell to the dash. put the button and bottom shell back together and replace the single screw. route the wires into the dash by the right side of the steering wheel.

the ground wire is run to where the hood release is. there is a screw holding the plastic to the subframe, remove that and put the ring of the ground wire there in between the plastic and subframe. replace screw.



for the power wire, the switched 12v one I found is the green with purple stripe wire coming out of the black connector (in the picture its the one with the purple snap connector attached)



Next run the "telephone" wire up the a-pillar on the door side. Its relatively easy to pull the weather stripping back and push the wire in. At the top of the a-pillar, push the headliner in to snake the wire to the other side of the a-pillar. lastly run the wire by way of the headliner to where ever you place your RD. Push leftover wire under the headliner.



If you have any questions let me know.

I'm reviving an old thread...

I have been looking around for instructions on how to hard wire up my Escort 8500 x50 radar detector and really want to use under dash power, can you update the pictures to this post if possible so i can follow?

[Hoopster3]

For the life of me I can't remove the trim panel above the rearview mirror. Is this write up the same for a convertible?

Even bought plastic trim removal tools...

[Hoopster3]

Thanks to this thread and the convertible thread I was able to finally piece enough together to install a Uniden R3 radar detector with a Blendmount and mirror tap.

On the convertible the headliner has to be removed and you're only given limited access to the airbag power connection. I found it was much easier to pop out the 4" long airbag screen than to remove the plug.

[Try2paz]

Has anyone had it stop working? I did a track day and went to replug my V1connection and nothing. I checked the cable and it was firmly in the plug (white/purple) and black. I ended up sending the cable back and they shipped me a new one for good measure. I installed the new cable and no power. The unit works fine plugged in with cigg lighter so I know it’s not the V1.

Checked the airbag fuse and it’s fine and the light is off.

Help?

[Usmcdevildog]

I don’t know if this has been touched on before but DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES USE T TAPS to try to hard wire off that airbag power and ground wire a shop I took my 2019 ZL1 did this it worked fine for about a month, hahahaha then it started shorting and turning off every time i hit a bump then stopped working all together, instead of just ordering the plug from gen5 they t tapped then tiny ass wires, long story short of course they broke AND THEY DIDNT ZIP TIE IN PLACE!! Every time it was tugged it was against those wires so i had to have all that fixed CAR STUFF SUCKS!!!!!in Louisville KY

[DIYguy]

FWIW-

I hard wired mine in by using connections at the light panel in the front center of the headliner.
Cost- About $0.10 for some electrician's tape and a dab or two of dielectric grease.

Just find a ground and a +12 wire that shuts off when the ignition is off (or turns off shortly thereafter when you open the door).
I forget which ones they were and really don't want to pull the panel down to check, but they were very easy to find using a multi-meter.
No need to run wires down the A-pillars or anything.
Typical modern radar detectors don't draw enough power to make any difference.

This is at least the fifth or sixth vehicle I have done this on and I haven't ever had any issues with doing it on any of them.

As for T-taps, I 100% agree with Usmcdevildog.
They should be outlawed for manufacture, sale and usage for any application.
Spectacularly bad idea.
I have had nothing but headaches everywhere I have run across them (including house wiring...!) and remove them whenever I encounter them without hesitation.

[CW3SF]

Ok.....let me first say that this is the worst vehicle I have ever encountered for hardwiring a detector (2019 ZL1).

First, I hard wired to the fuse block under the hood. (I looked at this thread and it’s methid first, but the working space is very small and my hands and fingers are large). To my astonishment EVERY DAMNED FUSE in the entire block is full hot ALL THE TIME. Key on or off makes no difference.

Didn’t take long to get tired of having to power down the detector after every drive so I went back to the overhead console method. And here’s my new problem. The only purple and white wire I have is on one of the map light plugs. So I tapped in there. Yep, full hot all the time. Detector stays on all the time.

So then, looking at the airbag light plug....no purple and white wire. I have a brown and white wire and I have a purple and yellow wire. I tried both of those wires and neither one are 12v hot, ever.

I gave up for the moment and rewired it to the map light with full time hot. What a pain.

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by CW3SF

Ok.....let me first say that this is the worst vehicle I have ever encountered for hardwiring a detector (2019 ZL1).

First, I hard wired to the fuse block under the hood. (I looked at this thread and it’s methid first, but the working space is very small and my hands and fingers are large). To my astonishment EVERY DAMNED FUSE in the entire block is full hot ALL THE TIME. Key on or off makes no difference.

Didn’t take long to get tired of having to power down the detector after every drive so I went back to the overhead console method. And here’s my new problem. The only purple and white wire I have is on one of the map light plugs. So I tapped in there. Yep, full hot all the time. Detector stays on all the time.

So then, looking at the airbag light plug....no purple and white wire. I have a brown and white wire and I have a purple and yellow wire. I tried both of those wires and neither one are 12v hot, ever.

I gave up for the moment and rewired it to the map light with full time hot. What a pain.

Try this: https://www.gen5diy.com/collections/...tector-harness

[CW3SF]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

Try this: https://www.gen5diy.com/collections/...tector-harness

Thanks, I saw that. I’m running a Radenso Pro, so the phone plug doesn’t work for me. I am using t-taps and have no problem tapping the wires. My issue is finding the one wire (apparently) on this car that kills power when the car is shut off.