[deathbyc4]

Working on subwoofer setup currently, aiming for two ML 2500.3 and LC-1.1500

Zenclosure box already came in

[deathbyc4]

So I've decided to redo the amp setup once I add in the subs.


Currently designing a new backplate So I'll have some storage space (current setup I can't really put anything back there in fear of scratching something)

[Plasar]

Sweet install - looks pro!

[deathbyc4]

Little update, just waiting on more wire.

[deathbyc4]

Time to tune and need to remake the lower floor cover. So far it sounds amazing. I had already partially tuned the highs but holy crap these subs hit. Definitely will need to hunt down rattles.






ml2500.3s

[deathbyc4]

Small update, got tired to the stock off center trunk light and added some White LED Strips

[SWRocket]

Would you be willing to share the design file and the mounting method for the amp panel? I'm about to start my old-school rebuild and planned to have the same panel there to hold the PPI Art A1200.

[xplct]

Nice set up! how does it sound? I have been eyeballing zenclosures boxes and amp rack for when I get around to do mine.

[SomeGeoffGuy]

Wow - that looks great! So those amps do the line level conversion too? That is where I am stuck on mine, I need to sum the signal first if I want to do anything other than add a sub.

-Geoff

[deathbyc4]

Swrocket, I'll see if I still have the dimensions, I did it on an online cad so it's iffy.

Xplct, sounds great just need alot more sound deadening. Bass turned up is overkill lol. Eventually I'll add in rear mid fill but it's plenty for now.

Geoff, yes the d.6-1200 has a built in dsp so the stock radio feeds to them RCA to the lc.1-1500. no loc converters needed. Gen5 diy has a harness to make it easy to wire.

[SomeGeoffGuy]

Originally Posted by deathbyc4

Geoff, yes the d.6-1200 has a built in dsp so the stock radio feeds to them RCA to the lc.1-1500. no loc converters needed. Gen5 diy has a harness to make it easy to wire.

Not that easy for me - nobody makes the T harness for a convertible yet! I reached out to those-who-shall-not-be-named and they expressed interest in developing one with me at least.

For you convertible guys (or maybe it is the same for everyone) - does the door speaker get a full range signal? If I could get a full signal from the door speaker it would simplify matters. Or do I need to merge it with the dash speakers?

-Geoff

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by SomeGeoffGuy

Not that easy for me - nobody makes the T harness for a convertible yet! I reached out to those-who-shall-not-be-named and they expressed interest in developing one with me at least.

For you convertible guys (or maybe it is the same for everyone) - does the door speaker get a full range signal? If I could get a full signal from the door speaker it would simplify matters. Or do I need to merge it with the dash speakers?

-Geoff

The door and dash speakers both get the same signal, but the dash speakers have a 68uF capacitor on their terminal to filter out frequencies below about 600hz. In a coupe, the signals to all four speakers are full-range, at least in a 1LE with no amp in the trunk. Your 2SS convertible probably has a Bose system, right? In that case, I'm not sure that any driver gets a full-range signal.

[SomeGeoffGuy]

Originally Posted by Msquared

The door and dash speakers both get the same signal, but the dash speakers have a 68uF capacitor on their terminal to filter out frequencies below about 600hz. In a coupe, the signals to all four speakers are full-range, at least in a 1LE with no amp in the trunk. Your 2SS convertible probably has a Bose system, right? In that case, I'm not sure that any driver gets a full-range signal.

Yea, Lucky me with the Bose system! Honestly, the Bose sounds great in my Silverado, but I think they failed on the Camaro Convertible. I have only seen one or two people post here that they have upgraded their convertible, and the ones who have spent a TON of money. Trying to stay on a budget here!

My ideal build is assuming that I can get full range from the door speaker (If not, looking at an Audio Control LC7i). I can put that door speaker output into something like a Rockford Fosgate R2-750X1. That will give me some good power for a sub (I can only fit an 8" in a sealed box), and also give me a pre-out for the component speakers up front. If I build the sub box and pinch the wire signal myself, I figure I can add the sub for around $600 now with the amp, and the components with amp for another $500 later.

-Geoff

[deathbyc4]

yeah best option would be to bypass the bose and pull from the main radio unit if they can make you a harness.



I'm still considering replacing the entire stock radio, just dont want to lose the built in non radio controls (NPP, mag ride, etc)