[RazzleDazzle]

1LE OEM rotors turned after 7000 of daily driver use
New powerstop pads properly broken in
New Bridgestone Potenza all-season tires

When doing HARD braking, the front end dances around - makes sound like anti-lock braking is happening while also skidding tires;

Is this normal?

[bobby35ny]

Originally Posted by RazzleDazzle

1LE OEM rotors turned after 7000 of daily driver use
New powerstop pads properly broken in
New Bridgestone Potenza all-season tires

When doing HARD braking, the front end dances around - makes sound like anti-lock braking is happening while also skidding tires;

Is this normal?

Turning rotors is a no no today!
Get new ones, sounds like they took too much off.
Sounds warped.
Hope they are not the Z26 pads, great for the street, I wouldn't track them at all.

[RazzleDazzle]

AW CRAP!!! I didn't know you can't turn rotors anymore?!?! GAHHHH!!!! So new rotors = problem solved likely?

[bobby35ny]

Originally Posted by RazzleDazzle

AW CRAP!!! I didn't know you can't turn rotors anymore?!?! GAHHHH!!!! So new rotors = problem solved likely?

These cars don't liked turned rotors...
If lug nuts are torqued properly etc. Its most likely the rotors.
New OEM rotors should do the trick.

[Alpha1BC]

You'll hear the ABS module making slight clicking noises and some chirping of the tires if you're getting into ABS. Does it shake under normal or moderate braking? I.e., hard but not locking up the tires? If yes, then it's probably the rotors. If no, then you're really only seeing the issue when in ABS, and if that's the case it's probably because both the brake pads and tires have been changed.

The ABS cal is built around the OE tire and brake pad, so switching to different parts that have different properties could absolutely cause the ABS system to not respond as well as it did with the OE stuff and feel like the front is dancing around more.

[RazzleDazzle]

Originally Posted by Alpha1BC

You'll hear the ABS module making slight clicking noises and some chirping of the tires if you're getting into ABS. Does it shake under normal or moderate braking? I.e., hard but not locking up the tires? If yes, then it's probably the rotors. If no, then you're really only seeing the issue when in ABS, and if that's the case it's probably because both the brake pads and tires have been changed.

The ABS cal is built around the OE tire and brake pad, so switching to different parts that have different properties could absolutely cause the ABS system to not respond as well as it did with the OE stuff and feel like the front is dancing around more.

I do hear the clicking noises and chirping of the tires. It does not shake under normal or moderate braking so it seems you're saying it's just an ABS issue? And there is no way to circumvent / prevent this from happening again other than putting OEM stuff back? (aint gonna happen! lol)

[VinnAY]

Dramatically different tire, and a less aggressive pad are going to be way different. What was your expectation for performance there? I'm not being sarcastic.

Did you do the install? simple questions even like did you torque the lugs down, criss-cross, etc etc etc

[VinnAY]

Originally Posted by RazzleDazzle

AW CRAP!!! I didn't know you can't turn rotors anymore?!?!

That is categorically not true.

[Scargoes]

It's going to happen when ABS activates. The tire is cycling between a sliding condition and a rolling condition. These changes in condition cause a change in input thru the suspension and produces the shaking feeling you are describing.

Changing the tire compound and brake pad friction material will change when the ABS will cycle. If you install a pad with a more agressive friction material while installing a tire with a harder(lower grip) rubber compound, you will notice that the ABS will actuate at lower stoping effort levels. Same as going to a higher grip rubber compound tire and a less agressive pad friction material will make ABS actuation come in later.

The condition of the road surface will also effect this. More debris(sand, rocks, dust, rubber...) on the surface will cause the ABS to actuate earlier. A difference in road surface between left and right sides can also cause ABS actuation to change.

[RazzleDazzle]

Originally Posted by VinnAY

Dramatically different tire, and a less aggressive pad are going to be way different. What was your expectation for performance there? I'm not being sarcastic.

Did you do the install? simple questions even like did you torque the lugs down, criss-cross, etc etc etc

I was just hoping for increased performance without causing problems

Me and my friend (who has extensive knowledge) did the install and he used the clicking torque wrench for the final tightening so I don't think that is the issue

[kropscamaro16]

lol i turned my rotors on my ss and replaced with new pads no issues here but not a 1le

[Alpha1BC]

Originally Posted by RazzleDazzle

I do hear the clicking noises and chirping of the tires. It does not shake under normal or moderate braking so it seems you're saying it's just an ABS issue? And there is no way to circumvent / prevent this from happening again other than putting OEM stuff back? (aint gonna happen! lol)

Yeah, that sounds like it's ABS fignting the different pads and tires. New rotors won't help that. Even the OE stuff will have the symptoms you described to an extent when in ABS, it's just more pronounced with different tires/pads since the ABS control isn't optimized for the vehicle setup anymore. Plus, all-season tires will let you get into ABS a lot easier since they're not as grippy as the OE SC3s, so you might not have even gotten into ABS when braking that hard before.

If you still want to improve it, best option would be to go after the tire. Don't have to go back to exactly OE, but the closer to the OE tire characteristics you get the better the performance should be.

[TJay74]

Originally Posted by bobby35ny

These cars don't liked turned rotors...
If lug nuts are torqued properly etc. Its most likely the rotors.
New OEM rotors should do the trick.

Huh, where did you get this info? Please share the source.

You can turn rotors just fine, the stock rotors are 34mm thick and can be turned down to the 32mm discard point. As long as the shop turns the rotors correctly and doesnt go below the discard point they will be fine.

Biggest thing that can impact pad and rotor performance is if the person doesnt take the time to burnish in the new pads to the rotor surface.

[bobby35ny]

Originally Posted by TJay74

Huh, where did you get this info? Please share the source.

You can turn rotors just fine, the stock rotors are 34mm thick and can be turned down to the 32mm discard point. As long as the shop turns the rotors correctly and doesnt go below the discard point they will be fine.

Biggest thing that can impact pad and rotor performance is if the person doesnt take the time to burnish in the new pads to the rotor surface.

Besides the interweb, many articles on it the past 10yrs or so. Rotors are warping really fast after they are turned/cut. A couple local shops to me wont even turn their machines on anymore, they just buy cheap china rotors now. I digress, LOL

I don't work on cars much anymore like I used to. I do some jobs here and there. The past 2 brake jobs I did, Kia Sedona and a F150, I turned the rotors and both came back in 6 months, threw on cheap rotors and it was then just fine. A car like we have, I want all the meat there, otherwise they will warp. I'm almost willing to pay for new rotors to the OP if I'm wrong, LOL