[Fun]

What is normal for Battery/ Amp Setting? I was at a stop sign, had been driving a half hour. This looks low. Thanks

[HCI2000SS]

Anywhere from around 12-14 is normal on these cars.

[Nitefall17]

It keeps the battery between 12.5 to 12.7.
So it want charge above 12.5 ish

[Fun]

Mine looks below 12, should I have it checked? Thanks

[Nitefall17]

That just means you battery is above 12.5,put a volt meter on it under the hood on the jump spot.

[arpad_m]

Whoever designed the gauge ticks was pretty sloppy or a 2^x oldschool hacker... had they divided the range into 10 ticks instead of 8, the small ticks would be equivalent to 1V each and the gauge would be actually readable. Heck, it would even have been enough to set the upper and lower limits to 10 and 18, respectively, which is about 5 seconds of "design work"

[Sweptwing]

You’re setting at 12.5v the operating band is 5.0v wide from 11.5v-16.5v
each tick is 1.25v and that is an acceptable reading. You have to remember it’s showing the battery voltage and not the charge rate. Gotta say though the first time I noticed the same type reading on the freeway it was unsettling.

[Sweptwing]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

Whoever designed the gauge ticks was pretty sloppy or a 2^x oldschool hacker... had they divided the range into 10 ticks instead of 8, the small ticks would be equivalent to 1V each and the gauge would be actually readable. Heck, it would even have been enough to set the upper and lower limits to 10 and 18, respectively, which is about 5 seconds of "design work"

You gotta wonder, what were the thinking!

[TP2SS]

If I’m not mistaken, the batteries in these cars are AGM (absorbed glass mat lead acid type). AGMs require very specific charge profiles and can be damaged easily if the profile is not followed. They also like to be charged with high current (amps) when charging from a discharged state. The typical profile for an AGM is:
14.4v for bulk and absorption (charging from a rundown state)
13.4v for “float” (maintaining a fully charged battery).
Your alternator should be floating at 13.4-ish while driving. The alternator will adjust amperage to maintain that voltage based on loads at any given time (fans, lights, pumps, etc).
It should not be reading that low while driving, you should have the full charging system checked.

[3Putt]

My alt readings jump around, the same as the OP. I think it's normal depending on the load.

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by TP2SS

If I’m not mistaken, the batteries in these cars are AGM (absorbed glass mat lead acid type). AGMs require very specific charge profiles and can be damaged easily if the profile is not followed. They also like to be charged with high current (amps) when charging from a discharged state. The typical profile for an AGM is:
14.4v for bulk and absorption (charging from a rundown state)
13.4v for “float” (maintaining a fully charged battery).
Your alternator should be floating at 13.4-ish while driving. The alternator will adjust amperage to maintain that voltage based on loads at any given time (fans, lights, pumps, etc).
It should not be reading that low while driving, you should have the full charging system checked.

Yes, the car uses an AGM battery. Yes, they need to be charged and maintained carefully. Voltage will not sit constant on the gauge, even "while driving" and no matter the load from the car. The gauge will change a lot, and there is no rhyme or reason to any of it. I basically have learned to ignore it and connect a battery tender any time the car will sit at least overnight.

The reading shown in the OP's pic is within range and does not indicate any sort of issue. Your guidance to have the charging system checked doesn't apply.

[GroundhogSS]

The voltage is controlled by the the ECU, not the alternator or voltage regulator. It is supposed to have algorithms that are supposed to maintain the battery at the proper voltage. If the ECU determines that the battery charge is okay, it will not be charging at all the the 12+ volts you see is the battery voltage. When charging, it can get over 13+. When I went in to the dealer to complain about the battery running low, they gave me several pages from their system that detailed how it all works. Can't fine it now or I would scan it in.

[IAI80]

……..

[Ajs16400]

Originally Posted by IAI80

My car was built in January of 2016. I was still on the original battery until just a few days ago. It was still starting just fine but I got the sense that going through another winter with it was out of the question. I had been watching the voltage reading for the last few weeks and noticed it consistently putting out 15 Volts and more recently staying there for an entire 30 minute highway drive. I took that indication as the big red flag. With the new battery now, it was sitting around 12.2V going down the highway earlier today.

One last thing, 2 service techs at the Chevy dealer quoted $185 installed for a new battery. I thought that sounded OK so I took it there. When they handed me the invoice, it was $100 more than that. They said sorry our quote was wrong the Camaro takes a performance based battery blah, blah. I wasn’t happy obviously, but I did get a $10 mail in rebate!

I would have told them to honor that price or yank it back out. I am sure they would have worked with you at that point as parts would not have taken back.