[Mountain]

Originally Posted by Richardw

https://racingbrake.com/search-results-page?q=c7-42

I found this for the rear, but couldn't find any OEM part numbers. I don't understand what they mean by "external fit" and I'm not sure what the O ring is for. Any experience with this?

The "external" vs "internal" fitment thing is a bit complicated, yeah, the way the term is kinda thrown out there. Essentially, it has to do with how the boots fit to the caliper piston bores. The rear SS/SS 1LE/base C7 (and I believe the front SS/base C7) utilize piston boots that... "grip" or "press against" the OD of the bore and pretty much everything else (everything else Brembo, really) utilize boots that "grip" onto the inner OD of the piston bore.

Another way to think of it is "external" fit boots use their OD to fit to a caliper and "internal" fit boots use their ID to fit to a caliper...

The O-ring is a replacement for the rubber bushing that is used OEM for the rear caliper's internal transfer of fluid. See the bottom of the page: https://racingbrake.com/camaro-11/

[Mountain]

Originally Posted by Christian1LE

How often do people rebuild calipers? Is this something you guys do periodically, after a certain number of miles? Or are there obvious wear signs when it's time to rebuild?

Mostly a front caliper thing, since the rear calipers don't really see temperatures high enough to fatigue the OEM rubber (EPDM) seals. The front calipers, the dust boots will begin cracking and can eventually start coming apart. All of the caliper piston seals are made of a rubber called EPDM (the OEM dust boots are, as well). That type of rubber, in general, is not good, for long periods anyway, past 160C (320F). I think AP Racing and Pagid have caliper rebuild recommendations based on temp vs time and how soon to rebuild. A good litmus is to watch rubber (EPDM) dust boots and how bad and quickly your are destroying them. Doing fluid swaps, at least yearly, helps.

https://apracing.com/race-car/brake-...ls-temperature

[RUQWIKR]

About the only time I see rear boots need replacing is with some combo of very aggressive pads and a lot of PTM intervention on track. I have never needed to even change rear dust boots on any of my cars.

[Richardw]

Thank you both. This thread is a gold mine of information for me! FYI my rears are fine but I'm doing an SS line install and was considering just to rebuild the rear since I'll have the caliper disconnected anyway. But after reading this probably not.

[RUQWIKR]

Originally Posted by Richardw

Thank you both. This thread is a gold mine of information for me! FYI my rears are fine but I'm doing an SS line install and was considering just to rebuild the rear since I'll have the caliper disconnected anyway. But after reading this probably not.

The more track (& street)use, the more heat, dirt, brake dust, etc. will eventually make it past the dust boots / seals and start to scratch up the pistons and piston bores. It’s not an easy ‘x’ miles or ‘y’ track hours. Watch for sticking pistons, unusual pad wear, and other warning signs. As discussed, fronts do most of the work, and they get most of the abuse. You can look at other threads about brake cooling ducts to help the situation, too. Smaller wheels like 18” ones have advantages but lower the amount of air to the brakes over 19” / 20” wheels.

Enjoy the car as much as possible and don’t over worry about all this - but I’d keep a log of track time, what pads, tires, and when you do brake maintenance, either predictive or reactive.

[Christian1LE]

Ok guys need your help since this is my first time doing this and I'm pretty sure that I will need new dust boots for my car. My car has about 5k miles on it and 9 hard track days. I think I'm just going to be buying new hi-temp dust boots and changing them out.

Here are my dumb newbie questions:
1. Do I need to remove the pistons to replace the dust boot?
2. What dust boots should i purchase (with part #'s if able) I know the stock part # is 19207044
3. Anything else anyone would suggest let me know
4. For question #2 above, I believe this is the correct kit for replacing all seals and dust boots, but what are the actual dust boot sizes? I'm just looking to replace the boots right now but maybe I should replace the seals as well https://racingbrake.com/bc-61bs/ ?

Here are pictures of my brakes.

[That1guy_tim]

[QUOTE=Christian1LE;11200796]Ok guys need your help since this is my first time doing this and I'm pretty sure that I will need new dust boots for my car. My car has about 5k miles on it and 9 hard track days. I think I'm just going to be buying new hi-temp dust boots and changing them out.

Here are my dumb newbie questions:
1. Do I need to remove the pistons to replace the dust boot?
2. What dust boots should i purchase (with part #'s if able) I know the stock part # is 19207044
3. Anything else anyone would suggest let me know
4. For question #2 above, I believe this is the correct kit for replacing all seals and dust boots, but what are the actual dust boot sizes? I'm just looking to replace the boots right now but maybe I should replace the seals as well https://racingbrake.com/bc-61bs/ ?

You do not need to removed the piston to replace the dust boot. You only need to remove the piston to change the O-ring that is on the piston.

[5.M0NSTER]

I have a different view point. If you’re tracking that much, I think dust boots simply become a consumable. I would argue that unless you drive on dirt roads or through snow, salt and grime, you don’t really need dust boots. Just clean the pistons out with brake cleaner when you swap pads. Which sounds like at the very least is once or twice per season for you anyway.

I’ve let mine burn on 3 separate cars now, never replaced them, and had no issue. The piston seals are the important piece of rubber here, not the dust boots.

[Christian1LE]

Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER

I have a different view point. If you’re tracking that much, I think dust boots simply become a consumable. I would argue that unless you drive on dirt roads or through snow, salt and grime, you don’t really need dust boots. Just clean the pistons out with brake cleaner when you swap pads. Which sounds like at the very least is once or twice per season for you anyway.

I’ve let mine burn on 3 separate cars now, never replaced them, and had no issue. The piston seals are the important piece of rubber here, not the dust boots.

Thanks, I actually didn't know that. My car is 97% track and 3% weekend car. I thought the dust boots were more critical component than that.

I'll buy the stock ones and just replace them on my next pad change just to see how replacing them works. I suppose I just need a pick to take the old ones out and then just press the new ones in by hand?

[olblue75]

Yeah. It pressing them back in by hands is a reeeeeal beoootch!!!

[Christian1LE]

What is the size of our dust boots ID and OD? I tried searching but had not luck. The reason I ask is because I'm just going to get the high temp dust boots from RB, but I'm not sure which size to get, they sell them individually.

ie. 45mm https://racingbrake.com/db-45ht-ex/

[Christian1LE]

I emailed them, they are 30mm.

[carguy55]

Using Ti shims should help a lot or maybe even prevent dust boots from getting destroyed. I started using them too late to know for sure.

So far the vented pistons are working great and the RB dust boots are holding up great without using Ti shims. Also make sure you're using the SS track duct kit for extra cooling. There is also a new CT5-V Blackwing deflector that can be used.
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=605353

[Richardw]

Originally Posted by RUQWIKR

On vehicle, you can change the boots without pulling the caliper, but, it's easier to pull the caliper bolts and use a dental pick type tool or flat blade to get the old ones out. They do usually come apart when brittle. You can loosen and plug the caliper and the banjo bolt and do it on a bench.

Mountain: I was able to get multiple sets of the fronts recently (19207044), not sure if lucky, or the backorder is done.

Richardw: PN 22968936 for the J6M rear pistons (with pressure seals), on kit per caliper. If you are having to change anything on the rears, you might have a serious brake temp issue.

Quick follow up question: Are you able to change out the boots without popping out the pistons? If so, can you provide some tips? @RUQWIKR