[18.2SS.1LE]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

I don't road course but I have done some 1/4 mi street pulls and have had to hit a corner coming in hot around 70-80 slowing down and they handled perfectly fine. I usually stick to 1/8 mi pulls for this reason but if the run looks like it might be a PB then it's full send LOL!! I honestly can't tell a difference on cornering from when I had run flats. They will easily handle a evasive maneuver in the event another driver pulled some dumb shit.

I know 1LE guys don't want to sacrifice handling but I would be interested to hear some feed back from guys with 1LE's that have tried pushing them a bit on the back roads with these tires. I believe the old 555r's would compromise too much handling but since Nitto stiffened up the sidewalls on the 555r2, I think they might work good and still offer a good all around balance.

The Toyo R888's are also good but noisy.

Haha I see. Of the reviews I have read apparently some people autocross with them so they must be pretty damn good.

[MSU120]

I have R888s and love them. They hook well. Noise isn’t that bad…..IMO.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by MSU120

I have R888s and love them. They hook well. Noise isn’t that bad…..IMO.

I run 888 too, and I can't hear the whine when my windows are up. I've run 3R, 4S, NT05, ET Street, and now 888 and these are best on dry surfaces. They all suck in the wet, but 4S is best.

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by JSH

I run 888 too, and I can't hear the whine when my windows are up. I've run 3R, 4S, NT05, ET Street, and now 888 and these are best on dry surfaces. They all suck in the wet, but 4S is best.

With all due respect, and I don't intend to turn this into yet another tire thread, there is a problem with your hearing if you can't hear the R888Rs in the cabin, even with the windows up (or your engine must be extremely loud even at low throttle).

I had difficulties carrying a conversation with my wife in the car when running these Toyos, even cruising, whenever the road surface was anything short of brand new blacktop.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

With all due respect, and I don't intend to turn this into yet another tire thread, there is a problem with your hearing if you can't hear the R888Rs in the cabin, even with the windows up (or your engine must be extremely loud even at low throttle).

I had difficulties carrying a conversation with my wife in the car when running these Toyos, even cruising, whenever the road surface was anything short of brand new blacktop.

It's got Kooks LT/cats/AB w/small mufflers, so it's pretty loud, but I really don't think about tire noise. To me it's a tradeoff - you must accept some additional noise to realize the additional tire performance.

[18.2SS.1LE]

Added dyno sheet to original post.

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by 18.2SS.1LE

Added dyno sheet to original post.

Good info, thanks. I manually hacked, pardon, "overlaid" my curves onto your dyno sheet just as a rough ballpark reference comparison (yes, I have a tiny torque dip near the top).

Neither the runflats nor the PS4S are likely to hook up from zero, but the PS4S at a slightly lowered pressure will work from a much slower roll.

It'd be interesting to find out exactly how low you can go with the starting speed, but of course you'll need those tires and then some guinea pigging willingness

[18.2SS.1LE]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

Good info, thanks. I manually hacked, pardon, "overlaid" my curves onto your dyno sheet just as a rough ballpark reference comparison (yes, I have a tiny torque dip near the top).

Neither the runflats nor the PS4S are likely to hook up from zero, but the PS4S at a slightly lowered pressure will work from a much slower roll.

It'd be interesting to find out exactly how low you can go with the starting speed, but of course you'll need those tires and then some guinea pigging willingness

Oof, making my car look really soft down low. I'm picking the car up tomorrow and will let you know how it hooks on the current rubber. I also have a Dragy and will try to get some performance data.

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by 18.2SS.1LE

Oof, making my car look really soft down low. I'm picking the car up tomorrow and will let you know how it hooks on the current rubber. I also have a Dragy and will try to get some performance data.

It's mostly just different because of the PD blower. I'm a chicken and don't like surprises at 110+ mph, once my car hooks, it'll definitely stay hooked (and, truth to be told, I like the giant initial hit).

Thanks, I'll be here waiting for the dragy screenshots.

[18.2SS.1LE]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

It's mostly just different because of the PD blower. I'm a chicken and don't like surprises at 110+ mph, once my car hooks, it'll definitely stay hooked (and, truth to be told, I like the giant initial hit).

Thanks, I'll be here waiting for the dragy screenshots.

Surprisingly the car hooks in 2nd gear... And damn is it fast! Still need to get dragy data as I threw a check engine light on the way home and they're sending me a revised tune.

[arpad_m]

Awesome, great to hear -150 rwhp does have some advantages

[18.2SS.1LE]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

Awesome, great to hear -150 rwhp does have some advantages

Probably more so the -100 ft lbs of torque when I smash the pedal at 40 mph. Is your car auto?

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by 18.2SS.1LE

Probably more so the -100 ft lbs of torque when I smash the pedal at 40 mph. Is your car auto?

Yeah, I meant torque but typed rwhp for some stupid reason.

Yes, my car is an A8 (tuned). What I typically do is blip the throttle to the floor, which engages performance shift mode, the A8 downshifts to the optimal gear for max torque at that speed, rpms climb to 3500-4000, and then I floor it for some bam-bam straight line shift action.

[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

I manually hacked, pardon, "overlaid" my curves onto your dyno sheet just as a rough ballpark reference comparison (yes, I have a tiny torque dip near the top).

What does your actual dyno sheet look like? Because this one being 46 mph to 142 mph, in an M6 car with different gear ratios than your A8 car, and with different tires than yours as well, means that your drawing is very much apples to oranges, in other words, bogus. Would need RPM-based graphs from both in order to pretend-overlay like you did. Yes I am pointing out that even if your dyno operator screwed up like this one, and gave you a speed-based dyno sheet instead of the correct rpm-based, the fact that your gearing does not match his would invalidate a straight comparison of mph vs power.