SCCA F Street (FS) Mods Discussion (Camaro-Specific)

[Retro69]

Originally Posted by nilfinite

At 3K miles with 4/32" tread on the stock tires. 3 days of AX school (2 Day Evo School + SCCA Starting Line) and 2 wet autocrosses. The stock setup is not fun in the wet!

Tire wear is nicely even with -2.1 in front and -1.2 in rear. No toe in front and a little toe out in the rear. Wear is maybe a little more inside than outside but not significant.

What's the go-to suggestion in terms of tire + wheel setup?

Go with the 1LE fitment. You won't be disappointed.

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[ORANGE CRUSSH]

what are all of you running for tire pressure? same all around? more in front or rear? how many pounds over door placard? I have heard to start with 5 lbs. over the door placard. any suggestions are welcome tomorrow is my first time in my 2013 1LE

[MediumLabowski]

your best pressure, in a nutshell, is the lowest you can get to without rolling your shoulder past the tread and onto the sidewall. so, you pick a starting point, maybe 30 or 35, scribble chaulk on the shoulder/corners... then add heat by racing/doing a run. when the chaulk is getting wiped off from the sidewalls you need to add pressure. if its just wiping chaulk from tread only then youre above or close to optimum pressure. thats when bleed some until you think youre close to rolling.

thats the basic method. things like a hot day with a heavy car on concrete change the pressures more rapidly then a light car on a cold day on asphault. using a pressure based on what youve heard or what others use is unscientific

[nilfinite]

I haven't tested enough to decide on a tire pressure but I run the same all around cold, 38 PSI last time I went. I don't adjust tire pressures as the tire warms up. Tire temps seem to be about right. 10 degree differential from inside to outside, using a crappy infrared tire pyrometer so not accurate. It's reflected in the tire wear as well. A little more wear on the inside than outside. Typically the front tires get hotter than the rear if you want to play with different tire pressures.

Lost my needle-pyrometer so need to get another one. Each tire is a bit different so gotta do a bit of testing if you want to get it perfect. Getting it perfect doesn't make a huge difference though, just for fun or if you are a national contender.

[nilfinite]

Re-reading the street-class rules. If I'm reading it correctly, I think ride height changes are allowed when making strut/shock changes?

13.5.A.2. "Suspension geometry and alignment capability, not including ride height, may not be altered by the substitution of alternate shock absorbers. Aftermarket strut housings are allowed provided that they meet the Street category shock requirements defined herein (i.e., that no suspension geometry changes result). This includes the position of the steering arm attachment point in the case of struts with integrated steering arms."

Update 1: If so, that means Koni Yellows are legal for FS even though they lower ride height by about 1".

Update 2: Very confused because I'm pretty sure I've seen people say you can't change ride height in street classes. If that's the case, can always get a helper spring to bring it back to stock height. Hmmmmm

Update 3: Reading more. Almost positive that ride height must stay the same at stock in the street classes. nvm. Unless they changed the rules which is also a possibility.

[MediumLabowski]

Of course Koni Yellows are legal.
If youre getting conflicting info, and the info hinges on a huge purchase, just email or call the scca rules guy... he doesnt mind. The intent of the rule is to stop you from making custom shocks with a super low perch and attachment points that give you a bunch of camber.

It is frustrating that the street rules are so complex, it turns people off...

[Z3papa]

You are not allowed to run a lower ride height. The lower spring perch of the shock body must be the same placement as stock to be legal and you can compress springs more just to reduce right height. The ancillary issue for some Koni yellows is they are not manufactured in the exact same specs as the OE strut which often means the hole for the king pin is larger which allows more play/camber which is also not legal. They can fix this by welding a washer to the unit to correct the play but is a little bit of a PITA.

[Cornercarver]

Originally Posted by nilfinite

Update 1: If so, that means Koni Yellows are legal for FS even though they lower ride height by about 1".

Just installed Koni yellows last week. Did not drop ride height at all fwiw. Also didn't gain any extra camber. They are the way to go for street class. Much better damping than the 1le shocks I had been using.

[ICTsccaCamaro]

Alignment, wheels and tires transformed ours into a new car, and to think I thought the factory G2 had a lot of grip

[nilfinite]

Cool! Good to know! Koni Yellows are back on the list of potential upgrades. I heard about the 1" drop from this thread/post: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=128

Never dealt with Koni Yellows before. Are there two perch settings?

[nilfinite]

Originally Posted by Cornercarver

Just installed Koni yellows last week. Did not drop ride height at all fwiw. Also didn't gain any extra camber. They are the way to go for street class. Much better damping than the 1le shocks I had been using.

Great feedback! Did you drill a hole in your trunk to be able to adjust the rear shocks on the fly?

[Cornercarver]

Originally Posted by nilfinite

Never dealt with Koni Yellows before. Are there two perch settings?

They looked just like the stock struts other than the adjustment at the top. I haven't measured them to see if they are lower. But the car was already so low it couldn't have gotten lower without being noticeable. If it did lower its not more than a 1/4"

Yes I drilled the trunk floor so I can adjust them. If you do it right you can use a snap in plastic plug to fill them. Just like others already in the trunk floor