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Old 10-18-2019, 04:30 PM   #29
jwaked
 
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I was scared of the 2" because read that was closer to cables and other things but if not will go with 2"
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Old 10-18-2019, 05:36 PM   #30
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quick question, why are people getting 2" instead por 1 7/8? stock motors
Because
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Old 07-21-2022, 02:16 AM   #31
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Drives: 2020 LT1
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I'm coming to the end of my install. Here's a list of my removals.

Plastic valve cover shrouds from both sides of the engine.
Plugs and wires from both sides.
Intake airbox and half of the tube.
Coolant tank.
Dip stick.
Wire bundle bracket from the forward edge of the engine on the passanger side.
Top most heat shield from the headers.
Steering linkage from driver's side.
Catch can from driver's side.
Starter heat shield.
Skid plate plus the two plastic shrouds that cover the control arms ect.
Bracket that goes across the mid pipe.
Bracket that connects the two cats.

I disconnected the cats from the headers and cut the stock exhaust just forward of the stock Xpipe and took them out separately. Getting the 4 bolts out of the cats took every uga duga I had plus some WD40 but it made getting the headers out easier. With the cats disconnected I was able to easily take the stock headers out from the top. New headers went in from the bottom on the passanger side and from the top on the driver's side.

Learn from my mistakes.

Jack the car up enough from the very start. At LEAST 20 inches.

The steering linkage bolts only go in from the unthreaded side.

Have the correct tools. A flex head ratchet with a wobble extension and deep well sockets is mandatory. I used all hand tools and it was pretty miserable. For some stuff, you don't have any choice, but I probably could have cut out an hour or two with power tools.

Connect the collector pipes to the headers and tighten them down before continuing on. I loose installed everything all the way back to the muffler thinking it would be easy to make adjustments. The problem with that is that all of the weight of the exhaust from the back hangers forward sits on those collectors and makes them sag down. It's very hard to move them back into place with the weight making them sag.
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Old 07-21-2022, 06:33 AM   #32
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Did you make the heat shield for the header tubes up top? I'm assuming you wrapped the starter in header heat material. Nice right up, I did mine on a race on my 16 SS and 16 C7, used the Speed Engineering on both. Great price and good fit.
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Old 07-21-2022, 08:49 AM   #33
Wintermute
 
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Yeah I made the heat shield for the headers. $60 off Amazon 36 inches by 12 inches. Cut it in half so it was 18x12 and it was more than enough for both sides. Secured with safety wire and metal zip ties. The starter already has a heavy duty heat shield, I didn't need to do anything to it.
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Old 07-21-2022, 03:54 PM   #34
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Nice job
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Old 07-24-2022, 03:47 AM   #35
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All done. Just waiting on my tuner to get back to me with a new map. Will probably take it somewhere and have all the clamps replaced with welds. No leaks, but all it would take for someone to steal my $2000 Borla mufflers is a ratch and 15mm deep well.......
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Old 07-24-2022, 06:39 AM   #36
laynlo15
 
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Originally Posted by Wintermute View Post
All done. Just waiting on my tuner to get back to me with a new map. Will probably take it somewhere and have all the clamps replaced with welds. No leaks, but all it would take for someone to steal my $2000 Borla mufflers is a ratch and 15mm deep well.......
I switched out to the 3" stainless band clamps. They pretty much took care of it but sometimes when it was cold they'd leak and then seal up once the exhaust heated up. I'd definitely get them welded to stop them all.
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