[Baddawg53]

Well I think I've tried everything that I can with regards to doing a complete ABS bleed on the car. I was able to get my hands on the GM GDS2 software and perform the bleed, and there was absolutely no difference in how it went, out of sequence and did not activate the abs solenoids on the drivers side of the car. It was literally the exact same as my Autel scanner, the snap on and the foxwell. Every scan tool performed the exact same way and looked identical on the screen. If the GM stuff doesn't actuate all 4 corners then nothing will.

[dpevans]

Serious question, when changing fluid and putting SRF in the system if you don't do a ABS bleed I understand that if the ABS is not activated none of the old fluid will get in the system and only during one track day did I ever activate the ABS and when I got home I bleed the system to get what little old fluid did get in the system out. The pedal never got soft. When I get my 24 2SS1LE I plan on doing the same thing, Since you can mix SRF with other fluids I am not doing an ABS flush unless when I change it I activate the ABS then I will do another system bleed. I can't see paying a dealer to flush the ABS for a few oz. of fluid that to me will not hurt the performance.

[wakespeak]

Brake bleeding is hit and miss for me. I think if you have a Motive pressure bleeder you need to pre-fill the reservoir up to the neck so that its not pushing air into the system. Use about 15psi. Then fully fill at least one drain bottle from the passenger rear caliper and you'll start to see any air that was trapped forward. Be patient. I use 4 bottles to be certain I am moving out any air.

Then drive for at least a week (a few drives) and do some hard stops/abs if possible. I open the cap a couple of times to get the pressure to equalize. I usually see the level in the reservoir drop some afterwards which indicates some air moved into the reservoir. At that point the pedal is more reliably firm.

Vacuum method may be best with this system.