[USAFS197]

I don't see anyone all that concerned with the pistons and ring gap issues the stock LT1's come with. I'd be highly paranoid going with forced induction without getting new pistons. On top of that, I would think that a catch can on a boosted setup is a must.

[KingLT1]

I wouldn't be concerned with the stock rings at entry level boost levels.

[MemoTRCKSS]

if I do decide on a S/C witch type would be a better buy on these new LT1's a roots style or centrifugal style be better

[oldman]

That is an angle dancing on a pin argument. For me I got a second hand one from Pray. It was a procharger, with a stage II intercooler. I also like the LT4 take-offs for the boost level I'm talking about 6 PSI. The is no all things being equal argument. Depends on the deal and where you want to go.

IMO the procharger offers more expansion options, and offers a more usable power curve.
The LT4 take-offs are OEM designed and for 6 PSI they are really hard to beat in terms of price, dependability and performace.
I've had two PDs before and loved them also... It is almost like the hot Asian vs the hot blonde vs Danica debate, they all want me...

[boostednut]

Personally I would pick a pro charger. Just run the canned tune or a conservative tune from a good tuner, throw on some headers and call it a day. On the internet 550whp+ is not fast enough, but in the real world on a street car, it's plenty fast. Like realistically, once you hit 600whp for most places in the country traction becomes much more of a problem without really nice tires. If you really want more power after that get a good methanol kit and get a retune.

The downside to an NA car is you lose AFM DOD etc, and it does cost drive-ability ultimately. A procharger outside of boost will drive totally like stock. So you basically have oem NA power down low, with a bunch of extra thrust throughout the powerband up from like 3k. And if you need to revert the car from stock, it's easier. And a procharger will be the easiest to install. Bar nitrous or something.

If you don't care about driveability (I want daily drive-able 100%) NA will sound better (exhaust side at least, prochargers do sound pretty nasty with an open BOV), and is cooler. But harder to install.

This question is like asking a bunch of other people if you should get a reach around, head or whatever from your GF. It's pretty pointless what we say. It's your decision, and up to you what you will like. I never understood these threads.

[MemoTRCKSS]

Originally Posted by boostednut

Personally I would pick a pro charger. Just run the canned tune or a conservative tune from a good tuner, throw on some headers and call it a day. On the internet 550whp+ is not fast enough, but in the real world on a street car, it's plenty fast. Like realistically, once you hit 600whp for most places in the country traction becomes much more of a problem without really nice tires. If you really want more power after that get a good methanol kit and get a retune.

The downside to an NA car is you lose AFM DOD etc, and it does cost drive-ability ultimately. A procharger outside of boost will drive totally like stock. So you basically have oem NA power down low, with a bunch of extra thrust throughout the powerband up from like 3k. And if you need to revert the car from stock, it's easier. And a procharger will be the easiest to install. Bar nitrous or something.

If you don't care about driveability (I want daily drive-able 100%) NA will sound better (exhaust side at least, prochargers do sound pretty nasty with an open BOV), and is cooler. But harder to install.

This question is like asking a bunch of other people if you should get a reach around, head or whatever from your GF. It's pretty pointless what we say. It's your decision, and up to you what you will like. I never understood these threads.

yes thats Really my goal 550 WHP so I'm thinking the pro charger is best choice keeping in mind that I will be going E85 I'm sure ill reach that power no problem with this setup

[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by MemoTRCKSS

yes thats Really my goal 550 WHP so I'm thinking the pro charger is best choice keeping in mind that I will be going E85 I'm sure ill reach that power no problem with this setup

The stock LT1 fuel system can not handle adding E85 to a Procharger that's making ~550hp on gasoline. To do this you'd need to upgrade the fuel system as well.

[USAFS197]

I legit struggle with this decision every day. I got a 1LE because if the balance, poise and capability. I don’t want to ruin those aspects by going too far with either an all-motor build or by going boost and ruining the weight distribution or end up with a car that can’t get traction when exiting a turn.

[Calubi]

Originally Posted by USAFS197

I legit struggle with this decision every day. I got a 1LE because if the balance, poise and capability. I don’t want to ruin those aspects by going too far with either an all-motor build or by going boost and ruining the weight distribution or end up with a car that can’t get traction when exiting a turn.

+1 to that. Realistically my 1LE is 99% street driven, so I want to have some fun with it. But I also don't want to ruin it for HPDE events.

[JaxChris]

Originally Posted by USAFS197

I legit struggle with this decision every day. I got a 1LE because if the balance, poise and capability. I don’t want to ruin those aspects by going too far with either an all-motor build or by going boost and ruining the weight distribution or end up with a car that can’t get traction when exiting a turn.

That's where I think NA builds also win out. Pushing up HP (and if some can crack it, RPM) without a proportionate increase in TQ will benefit the track crowd better than most boosted solutions will. Going too far over 500rwtq is really detrimental to the driving dynamic unless you really plan out and test some well matched suspension and tire upgrades. I don't care about winning a drag bracket, I want a street car that can attack a track.

[PRAY]

All my H/C packages have made between 550rw and 590rw. They are also daily driven. I do think the one dyno is on the high side but they have been independently tested as well.

But in Commifornia I would just get a CARB legal PC or Maggi and be done with it. Just deal with the weight and heat. Get the fuel system correct and run E85. Price has shown to be a wash between the two. I though we already had pages of discussion on this exact topic.

[USAFS197]

Originally Posted by PRAY

All my H/C packages have made between 550rw and 590rw. They are also daily driven. I do think the one dyno is on the high side but they have been independently tested as well.

But in Commifornia I would just get a CARB legal PC or Maggi and be done with it. Just deal with the weight and heat. Get the fuel system correct and run E85. Price has shown to be a wash between the two. I though we already had pages of discussion on this exact topic.

I'll be honest, I've been eyeballing your stuff for quite a while but, I live in an awkward spot. I have shops that will install "someone elses' stuff" but, refuse to tune it or warranty it. Another popular shop here on the forums and somewhat locally to me, outright refuses to install anything other than what they procure and only their proprietary stuff when possible. I've brought up TSP parts, your parts, etc., etc. and have been met with a strict policy against it. But they'll charge me literally thousands of dollars for stuff that I didn't even ask for in the build because that's just part of the package.

I'm inclined to stay all motor and keep it simple. A part of me has even considered going with your ported TB/IM/Heads with 2" long tubes, Katech Flywheel and a tune and calling it a day. Problem lies in the last part. No one locally will tune the car with parts they did not provide.

[Calubi]

If you can do the install yourself, remote tuning may be an option.

[PRAY]

Originally Posted by USAFS197

I'll be honest, I've been eyeballing your stuff for quite a while but, I live in an awkward spot. I have shops that will install "someone elses' stuff" but, refuse to tune it or warranty it. Another popular shop here on the forums and somewhat locally to me, outright refuses to install anything other than what they procure and only their proprietary stuff when possible. I've brought up TSP parts, your parts, etc., etc. and have been met with a strict policy against it. But they'll charge me literally thousands of dollars for stuff that I didn't even ask for in the build because that's just part of the package.

I'm inclined to stay all motor and keep it simple. A part of me has even considered going with your ported TB/IM/Heads with 2" long tubes, Katech Flywheel and a tune and calling it a day. Problem lies in the last part. No one locally will tune the car with parts they did not provide.

I remote tune. That takes care of that. I have cars down there that I remote tune.

I don't blame anyone for not wanting to install other peoples parts or parts they don't make money on. That just makes business sense. I won't install any parts that I don't port or spec. But I am definitely not warrantying anything. It is a modified part being pushed to it's limit. I could blow up anything if I tried. Don't matter who made it or who tuned it. With that being said, I ALWAYS take care of my customers. So you aren't high and dry if you get my stuff.