[TP2SS]

Zayden:

I don't know why someone said it looks like you're going body to body in that pic. The only thing I can see is the NEG body lug next to the fusebox, and that's exactly where SSDan originally said he put it. Since no one can see the other end of that cable in that pic, not sure why would anyone think it's body-to-body?

KLG:
Good stuff on the pic of the OE block connection, but just checking it's tightness doesn't mean it's a good connection. You (we all) should remove the bolt and clean both the block boss and cable terminal. There could be corrosion on that connection making it a poor electrical connection.
In fact, it wouldn't be a bad idea to remove and clean the body lug and cable(s) there too. The body lug is painted (?) with the rest of the car before the OEM cable and post-nut are installed, and I wouldn't be surprised if that's part of the issue. Painted threads and base at the sheet metal beam; cable terminal will not make a good connection at base; post-nut won't make a good connection on painted threads. Only "good" connection is cable terminal to post-nut, which gives you nothing.

WRT galvanic issues, are you talking about galvanic corrosion? That's a non-issue. Galvanic corrosion occurs when two dissimilar metals are immersed in an "electrolyte". The typical scenario (besides a battery where it's intentional) is a boat with a Stainless Steel propshaft and a bronze propeller. Seawater (more specifically saltwater...doesn't happen as much in freshwater) acts as the electrolyte and sets up a current between the shaft and prop. Bronze being less noble than SS causes it to slowly dissolve. It's easily remedied by putting a zinc anode on the shaft, zinc be less noble than either SS or bronze, so the zinc slowly dissolves. There's another issue with boats called stray current corrosion which is different but is sometimes misrepresented as galvanic corrosion, or just misdiagnosed in the first place.
Regardless, neither of those things are going to occur on the Camaro with the cable attached anywhere on the engine, as long as the connection provides an electrically solid path back to the starter.

I like the sound tube mount idea. It looks like a larger bolt than the water pump? Anyone know if the cable can be attached there with the sound tube still in place, like just removing the bolt and putting the terminal on and reinstalling the bolt with whatever sound tube hardware still in place?

[KLG]

Originally Posted by TP2SS

KLG:
Good stuff on the pic of the OE block connection, but just checking it's tightness doesn't mean it's a good connection. You (we all) should remove the bolt and clean both the block boss and cable terminal. There could be corrosion on that connection making it a poor electrical connection.
In fact, it wouldn't be a bad idea to remove and clean the body lug and cable(s) there too. The body lug is painted (?) with the rest of the car before the OEM cable and post-nut are installed, and I wouldn't be surprised if that's part of the issue. Painted threads and base at the sheet metal beam; cable terminal will not make a good connection at base; post-nut won't make a good connection on painted threads. Only "good" connection is cable terminal to post-nut, which gives you nothing.

WRT galvanic issues, are you talking about galvanic corrosion? That's a non-issue. Galvanic corrosion occurs when two dissimilar metals are immersed in an "electrolyte". The typical scenario (besides a battery where it's intentional) is a boat with a Stainless Steel propshaft and a bronze propeller. Seawater (more specifically saltwater...doesn't happen as much in freshwater) acts as the electrolyte and sets up a current between the shaft and prop. Bronze being less noble than SS causes it to slowly dissolve. It's easily remedied by putting a zinc anode on the shaft, zinc be less noble than either SS or bronze, so the zinc slowly dissolves. There's another issue with boats called stray current corrosion which is different but is sometimes misrepresented as galvanic corrosion, or just misdiagnosed in the first place.
Regardless, neither of those things are going to occur on the Camaro with the cable attached anywhere on the engine, as long as the connection provides an electrically solid path back to the starter.

I like the sound tube mount idea. It looks like a larger bolt than the water pump? Anyone know if the cable can be attached there with the sound tube still in place, like just removing the bolt and putting the terminal on and reinstalling the bolt with whatever sound tube hardware still in place?

Good reminder about cleaning the connections. I had to make sure I was down to bare metal when I was making those two new connections to the body. I did clean the OEM frame lug connection since I had it apart. The connection at the block I decided not to mess with since it looked good with no signs of corrosion, it was tight and it is kind of a PITA for me to access.

You got it right on the galvanic issues, I was referring to galvanic corrosion issues.

The OEM sound tube mounting bolt is a 10 mm with a 1.5 pitch. Takes a #50 torx. When I removed my sound tube years ago, I left the two mounting bolts with grommets in place. So, I used the closest OEM bolt when I did my first pass at adding a secondary ground. I think it might just work with the sound tube still in place, since the sound tube mount slips over the grommet that is held in place by that bolt. Below is a picture of the OEM bolt assembly that I used.

--KLG--

[grampa_ss]

Originally Posted by TP2SS

Zayden:

I don't know why someone said it looks like you're going body to body in that pic. The only thing I can see is the NEG body lug next to the fusebox, and that's exactly where SSDan originally said he put it. Since no one can see the other end of that cable in that pic, not sure why would anyone think it's body-to-body?

Look closer. It's just below and to the right of the top lug connection.

[TP2SS]

Originally Posted by grampa_ss

Look closer. It's just below and to the right of the top lug connection.

Damn you got a good eye! I would not have even looked down there without someone directing me to it, which wasn’t in the original post with that pic! Plus the glare off the copper makes it not look like copper unless looking even closer.

I think you need to change your forum name to EagleEye from Grampa. You don’t have grampa eyes 👀. This is coming from someone who wears contacts and needs readers

[grampa_ss]

Originally Posted by TP2SS

Damn you got a good eye! I would not have even looked down there without someone directing me to it, which wasn’t in the original post with that pic! Plus the glare off the copper makes it not look like copper unless looking even closer.

I think you need to change your forum name to EagleEye from Grampa. You don’t have grampa eyes ��. This is coming from someone who wears contacts and needs readers

To be fair, I had to stare at that pic for a few minutes to figure what spot he was referring to. Lol.

[Choda]

Originally Posted by TP2SS

www.bestboatwire.com

just ordered. Im going a bit of a different route than using the water pump bolt. Im going to run it from the frame to the back of the passenger side head.

Custom Battery Cable Marine Grade | By The Foot
Select Gauge: Tinned Copper Wire: 1/0 AWG ($5.24/ft)
Select Wire/Cable Color: Black
How Many Feet of 1/0 AWG Wire: 2 ft
How Many Inches of 1/0 AWG Wire: 10 in
End 1 (Top): Conector: Tinned Copper Lug - 1/0 AWG
End 1 (Top): Stud Hole Size: For 3/8 in Bolt (M10)
End 2 (Bottom): Conector: Tinned Copper Lug - 1/0 AWG (Bottom)
End 2 (Bottom): Stud Hole Size: For 3/8 in Bolt (M10)
End 1: Top Heat Shrink Tubing: Black
End 2: Bottom Heat Shrink Tubing: Black

[fxdxron1]

Just thought I would chime in again looks like everyone that has added an additional ground strap has seen Improvement in the hot start of these cars including myself I wonder if the original ground straps have a poor connection or insufficient cable size.

[Kemo Savy]

Originally Posted by TP2SS

Damn you got a good eye! I would not have even looked down there without someone directing me to it, which wasn’t in the original post with that pic! Plus the glare off the copper makes it not look like copper unless looking even closer.

I think you need to change your forum name to EagleEye from Grampa. You don’t have grampa eyes 👀. This is coming from someone who wears contacts and needs readers

I guess my eye is good to because I seen just what he seen.

[Johnnyb2016]

Been looking at this too.
On my car I have stud extension coming off the thermostat housing as opposed to just plain bolt heads.

[oldguy0130]

looks like enough room to add 2 nuts to it and sandwich the lug between them.

[MackSteelPrivateEye]

Originally Posted by Johnnyb2016

Been looking at this too.
On my car I have stud extension coming off the thermostat housing as opposed to just plain bolt heads.

Thats not a good ground...too much plastic contact.

[GroundhogSS]

Originally Posted by MackSteelPrivateEye

Thats not a good ground...too much plastic contact.

He could always back one of the bolts out and put the connector between the bolt head and the block, then through the t-stat housing.

[TP2SS]

Originally Posted by oldguy0130

looks like enough room to add 2 nuts to it and sandwich the lug between them.

Why bother when there’s this just a few inches away.

[Choda]

Got my additional ground strap. 34 inch. 1/0 gauge. 8mm ends. Hopefully this helps with the weak cranking issue a lot of people have commented on.