[kurmaro]

I'm thinking of doing a simple tune for 93 octane, catted (or catless) downpipe, muffler delete, & cold air intake. I've seen a YouTube video on it and saw someone else's tune and they've made around 300whp/380tq which is something I would love to have.

But I've also seen someone's LTG blow at 350 whp. So I'm stuck whether on to go through with it or not.

I don't think I'd really need any supporting mods other than a intercooler, correct?

[wookwook]

this level is like a stage 1 bolt on. So far, the consensus is this is safe. I used an email tune for 340tq and 335hp peaks. gets you close to what your looking for. You would need access to high end tuners to take you above this level, and add boost and/or fueling mods to go further. But this is still a fun ride at these numbers!

[kurmaro]

Originally Posted by wookwook

this level is like a stage 1 bolt on. So far, the consensus is this is safe. I used an email tune for 340tq and 335hp peaks. gets you close to what your looking for. You would need access to high end tuners to take you above this level, and add boost and/or fueling mods to go further. But this is still a fun ride at these numbers!


Attachment 1024178

Who did your tuning and what did you use for it?

[wookwook]

I've had the car for 11 months. Have good mechanical aptitude, good engineering sense. I did it myself with the very helpful advise from the other members here and a lot (read a LOT) of reading/research and looking at what others have done. You could say a lot of motivation and some investment of time and money is required. More time than money. Also I say its a benefit to having gotten started only on the LTG, its pretty unique so I didn't have old habits to break. Hopefully wont' have an engine to break as I say this. Very slow and methodical changes. 10 percent inspiration and 90 percent perspiration.


https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=564007








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[Evil-Bee-NH]

The engine block can probably take up past 500whp the Stock Internals will have issues at north of 375whp along with other factors that Wook alluded to such as Fuel not to mention things breaking more often if the car is mishandled. Your safer around 350whp if your on stock internals and cars have blown up at far less due to shoddy tuning.

[cooper1965]

Originally Posted by Evil-Bee-NH

The engine block can probably take up past 500whp the Stock Internals will have issues at north of 375whp along with other factors that Wook alluded to such as Fuel not to mention things breaking more often if the car is mishandled. Your safer around 350whp if your on stock internals and cars have blown up at far less due to shoddy tuning.

ALL of this ^

[kurmaro]

Originally Posted by Evil-Bee-NH

The engine block can probably take up past 500whp the Stock Internals will have issues at north of 375whp along with other factors that Wook alluded to such as Fuel not to mention things breaking more often if the car is mishandled. Your safer around 350whp if your on stock internals and cars have blown up at far less due to shoddy tuning.

That's good to hear. If I made around 300whp would a intercooler be necessary to keep things cool or is the stock one enough?

[Evil-Bee-NH]

Originally Posted by kurmaro

That's good to hear. If I made around 300whp would a intercooler be necessary to keep things cool or is the stock one enough?

Stock one is fine but there are cheaper better upgrades for Intercoolers now. Rev9 has a decent setup that won't bankrupt you. You can hit 300whp with just CAI and Downpipe if your tuner is semi-competent. Most of us are staying around that number I'm at 316whp 385wtq but my tuner has spent tons of time learning my car.

[wookwook]

Ive held off on the IC for that amount of work and expense. Plus I decided early on that I would try boost cooler. If I was to look at IC I was gonna look at Air to Water, and that's a huge project right there. From what I can see Manifold Temp does seem to cool down reasonably well when you get some speed going. We have sitting heat soak, unlike the SC engines that usually cannot keep up with shedding heat and they tend to have heat gain running hard. Hope that helps.

Is why I keep suggesting get VCM scanner going so you can get your strategies in line when it comes to making investments. And of course listening to these guys like EB and Cooper, who have a lot more experience at it. No one will come out and tell you what to do, we all want our personal touch and share the info for the better and not so much for worse, lol...

As a note the Mishi Pipe kit does work well. I would totally recommend that. If not just to start and see how it goes.




.

[ryansalazan24]

I have found it actually interesting that these ltg .otors are much stronger than most think. They just need a little tlc. For starts, run a catch can system. Any blows recirculating into the cylinder head with dirty things up and burning recirculated oil and produce detonation. Next, make sure you have a good tune. And with this good tune I must stress do not run too much timing or boost unless you run the needed fuel. Thirdly, and this is if you want to start pushing it, run ethanol. These motors are sort of high compression for the amount of boost going through it so need as much cooling as possible. I have found with adequate combustion temps and cylinder temps the motors hold just fine. I am currently or basically fbo and a custom hybrid i built myself. I'm tuned on e47 and dynoed 383rwhp and 412rwtq all on stock motor. I just added a 50/50 water methanol mixture just recently for added cooling and the car has been a rocket. With the water meth should be right about 400rwhp and 420rwtq. On stock motor.

[Start The Machine]

Originally Posted by ryansalazan24

I have found it actually interesting that these ltg .otors are much stronger than most think. They just need a little tlc. For starts, run a catch can system. Any blows recirculating into the cylinder head with dirty things up and burning recirculated oil and produce detonation. Next, make sure you have a good tune. And with this good tune I must stress do not run too much timing or boost unless you run the needed fuel. Thirdly, and this is if you want to start pushing it, run ethanol. These motors are sort of high compression for the amount of boost going through it so need as much cooling as possible. I have found with adequate combustion temps and cylinder temps the motors hold just fine. I am currently or basically fbo and a custom hybrid i built myself. I'm tuned on e47 and dynoed 383rwhp and 412rwtq all on stock motor. I just added a 50/50 water methanol mixture just recently for added cooling and the car has been a rocket. With the water meth should be right about 400rwhp and 420rwtq. On stock motor.

Well said. I've been saying this for years.

[wookwook]

to the MW system, its a definite must have for higher boosted engines. I tested out number the 5 nozzle since the warmer climates now. Its a little too much spray, so the number 4 should be showing up in the post soon. I only run WW fluid cut in half for 10 percent Methanol cut with 93. I'm very happy with it, been solid and problem free I don't run my power demand on the edge either so I feel pretty safe. HP tuners showed me 430t / 400h at the crank on low DA days, and I still feel a definite performance boost in these 140 F degree intake days. STFT seems happy to work with the fuel demand window, lamba stays on target. Will look at full dose of WW, if it skews the fuel curve so much that I need to manage it, probably wont go there very often. Works very well with the larger turbo wheel.