[parish8]

What is the strongest LT engine set up? Awhile back I dropped a valve and just got around to pulling the motor. There is cylinder damage so no I am looking at my options.

Basically I want to go all out. A Darton sleeve 427 from tsp with the 8 counter weight calies crank and some set up cid heads. My concern is that this may not be the most robust combo available. I don’t won’t to bore it or stroke it if that makes it weaker.

I asked this question awhile back but figured I would see what people are thinking now. Looking for input. I will of course see what Texas speed thinks.

[7WSM]

Noonan Billet block with the Edelbrock Victor Jr heads if cost wasn't a factor.

[NickeyMatt1LE]

If you're talking a streetable setup. Sleeving the block to the stock bore size will be the strongest. More meat between cylinders and cooling jackets means less flex. Definitely on the right track with the Callies stuff. Magnum or Billet crank, ultra billet rods. Good pistons with a tool steel .220" or thicker wall pin.

Race car, what 7WSM said. Billet block, aluminium rods, billet crank.

[parish8]

I didn’t even know the billet block existed. That is probably a bit extreme for me.

I posted this on face book and got a little more action. I am leaning toward a darton sleeve stock stroke, stock bore or 4.125 bore, callies magnum 8 cw crank, cid heads with inconel exhaust and ti intake valves. Toss in some good rods and pistons. Not sure what else.

The other part of this is who? Any reason not to go with Texas speed? Who else should I consider?

[7WSM]

Texas Speed is solid. I know several people with TX Speed engines without any issues. LME would also be a great choice. Baker Engineering, Katech, and Boroski Race Engines, all have solid reputations too.

[Puddin]

LME is a good choice but they do take their time but will always answer any questions you might have. I just had TSP finish up a 427 for me so I yet to have any info on durability. I thought about the CID heads as well but just couldn't let myself drop that kinda money on top of the cost for the short block. I did do all the fixings though billet rods, wiseco pistons with upgraded tool steel wrist pins, upgraded crank pretty much anything that I thought would make it stronger I had them do. This is my second engine build on this car in less than a year so I'm hoping I'm finally in for some good luck.

[Goohead]

I guess it depend on what goals you have for your build or how much tool
You want to go.

If under 1200, I’m good with compstar, Wiseco and also Molnar has some great stuff like their power adder and power adder plus rods, let me know if you need a set, can hook you up on good deal:

[oldman]

Manley valves, boost line rods, sleeved Texas Speed block.
http://rpmspeed.com/product_info.php...7321934384efba

I like H beam if you are looking for drop-in, but if OEM weight is not an issue, than IMO a modern I beam is stronger...

[oldman]

http://blog.wiseco.com/wisecos-new-2...onnecting-rods

I don't know how the Paten the design as the cross-bracing has been known for quite a while.

[Goohead]

There is a point of diminishing returns on some of these components and the pricing. I do like the boost line rods and some of Manley I beams. I think going with an USA forged rod crank if you are not going to go higher than 1200hp+ might be a waste

[parish8]

If I do a darton sleeve motor I will be shooting for ~1500, maybe more eventually.

I am all over with my ideas. So far I really like the darton 388 idea and set up the valve train to let it rev.

In a completely different direction my mind is wondering to a l83(5.3) with some drop ins. Reuse my cam, springs, head studs. Get some good valves put on them. These motors are cheap. Hit it with 30+psi

[KingLT1]

388 all day.

[laynlo15]

I think 6genmike is doing a darton sleeved Lt1.

[KingLT1]

That is what I would do if I was going to push the envelope with this platform.