[Puddin]

Originally Posted by SnowWhiteSS

Had mine for 3 years now. No issues to note. I drive it very very hard sand it gives me 0 back talk. Your motor isn’t compromised btw, do not change the synthetic oil in these things at 3k unless your running E85 or tracking it. You will be wasting your money. They take 9 quarts of oil, takes a while for the oil to go thin. Pretty sure the manual says like 5k or something like that. I usually change mine at around 25% life.

If your really concerned, next time you do an oil change, cut open the oil filter and look for metallic shavings. But I promise you it’s fine.

Good advice though? Buy a oil catch can now, your valves will thank you later. These direct fuel injected motors like to gunk up the valves pretty quick .but that’s a direct injection thing, not a Chevy thing

They take 10 quarts of oil. Not sure if you accidentally put 9 but don't want the new guy to get the wrong info.

[UnknownJinX]

Gen V Small Block has been generally solid so far. I took mine to the track a few times and it took the abuse well.

Rock Auto has very good prices on Mobil1 ESP 0W-40 at about US$7.50 a quart. You can also try calling the Mobil1/Esso distributor near you and see what price they quote you. Could be even better than Rock Auto's price, or at least you don't have to pay and wait for shipping.

Originally Posted by schoenmaro55

What concerns me is when I started the car for the first time ever, it only had 9% oil remaining with 5,300 miles on the odometer Does that mean the original owner probably drove the living hell out of it? Maybe lol.

Could you possibly link me to your favorite oil catch can? You are very correct with the DI and motors gunking up, not just a Chevy thing... it's happened to every make at one time or another because of it.

The oil life monitor is time-based, so maybe that has something to do with that. From my experience, you have to be tracking a lot for the oil life monitor to be that low. Do an eyeball check on the brake pads and tires. If the tires are close to bald or suspiciously new then it could have been tracked a lot, though I doubt that's the case. The amount of brake pad material left could also be an indicator.

I am personally not so worried about the DI gunk up. LT1 and L86 that you find in the Silverado's, Escalade's, etc. are largely similar(in fact, the short block is said to be identical), and they sell a lot of those trucks and truck-like SUV's. They run on thinner oil(for better CAFE) and their owners generally don't care for them as much as Corvette and Camaro owners do. Even then, here is a pic of the carbon buildup of a Gen V Small Block out of a stock truck(0W-20, no catch can, etc.) with 117k miles. It's not bad at all.



In fact, the only manufacturers that actually have issues with DI carbon buildup to the point that you will have driveability issues are BMW, VW, their associated brands(MINI, Audi, etc.) and I have heard Subaru has some issues as well. Other people just automatically assume that other brands with DI will 100% have issues. You think most Honda/Toyota/Mazda owners know what DI is? And yet their engines still run miles after miles. I know a guy from my RX-8 days that owns a 2014/2015 Mazda6 with 2.5 Skyactiv-G engine, which is DI. Has around 150k miles on it, regular maintenance, regular gas, mechanically stock, and driven regularly in -20 F/-30 C weather. Other than a busted oil pressure sensor seal causing an oil leak at around 145k miles, zero issues with driveability.

I haven't heard anyone really having issues with DI on GM, at least anything that's statistically significant(think A8 shudder). If the carbon buildup is that bad, you would be seeing walnut shell blasting setups mentioned in the Owner's Manual and present in the dealerships, like BMW.

I think catch cans are not worth it(trying to not step on people's toes here), but YMMV.

[schoenmaro55]

Originally Posted by UnknownJinX

Gen V Small Block has been generally solid so far. I took mine to the track a few times and it took the abuse well.

Rock Auto has very good prices on Mobil1 ESP 0W-40 at about US$7.50 a quart. You can also try calling the Mobil1/Esso distributor near you and see what price they quote you. Could be even better than Rock Auto's price, or at least you don't have to pay and wait for shipping.



The oil life monitor is time-based, so maybe that has something to do with that. From my experience, you have to be tracking a lot for the oil life monitor to be that low. Do an eyeball check on the brake pads and tires. If the tires are close to bald or suspiciously new then it could have been tracked a lot, though I doubt that's the case. The amount of brake pad material left could also be an indicator.

I am personally not so worried about the DI gunk up. LT1 and L86 that you find in the Silverado's, Escalade's, etc. are largely similar(in fact, the short block is said to be identical), and they sell a lot of those trucks and truck-like SUV's. They run on thinner oil(for better CAFE) and their owners generally don't care for them as much as Corvette and Camaro owners do. Even then, here is a pic of the carbon buildup of a Gen V Small Block out of a stock truck(0W-20, no catch can, etc.) with 117k miles. It's not bad at all.



In fact, the only manufacturers that actually have issues with DI carbon buildup to the point that you will have driveability issues are BMW, VW, their associated brands(MINI, Audi, etc.) and I have heard Subaru has some issues as well. Other people just automatically assume that other brands with DI will 100% have issues. You think most Honda/Toyota/Mazda owners know what DI is? And yet their engines still run miles after miles. I know a guy from my RX-8 days that owns a 2014/2015 Mazda6 with 2.5 Skyactiv-G engine, which is DI. Has around 150k miles on it, regular maintenance, regular gas, mechanically stock, and driven regularly in -20 F/-30 C weather. Other than a busted oil pressure sensor seal causing an oil leak at around 145k miles, zero issues with driveability.

I haven't heard anyone really having issues with DI on GM, at least anything that's statistically significant(think A8 shudder). If the carbon buildup is that bad, you would be seeing walnut shell blasting setups mentioned in the Owner's Manual and present in the dealerships, like BMW.

I think catch cans are not worth it(trying to not step on people's toes here), but YMMV.

Lots of very good info here thank you!!! I'll have to look into the brake pads... I can tell you all 4 tires still have 5/32" tread still left on them though... so that's encouraging after 5k+ miles that maybe it WAS NOT tracked? Still a good amount of wear left on it for those tires.

Thanks for all your info too on the DI/Carbon buildup.

[Mark114]

Originally Posted by UnknownJinX

The oil life monitor is time-based, so maybe that has something to do with that. From my experience, you have to be tracking a lot for the oil life monitor to be that low.

The oil lift monitor will calculate based on mileage and time and it factors in how the car is driven (stop and go city, highway cruising, and performance). The monitor will go to 0% after a year regardless of the mileage. The low percentage might just indicate that it has been almost a year since the last oil change.

[schoenmaro55]

Originally Posted by Mark114

The oil lift monitor will calculate based on mileage and time and it factors in how the car is driven (stop and go city, highway cruising, and performance). The monitor will go to 0% after a year regardless of the mileage. The low percentage might just indicate that it has been almost a year since the last oil change.

That makes perfect sense thank you! The car was bought at the end of November or December 1st, 2020... so if it's been going since then without an oil change... that would make sense that it was around 10% when I got to the car for the first time this past week.

[UnknownJinX]

Originally Posted by schoenmaro55

Lots of very good info here thank you!!! I'll have to look into the brake pads... I can tell you all 4 tires still have 5/32" tread still left on them though... so that's encouraging after 5k+ miles that maybe it WAS NOT tracked? Still a good amount of wear left on it for those tires.

Thanks for all your info too on the DI/Carbon buildup.

5/32" isn't bad, since new tires start at 7/32" in the front and 1/4" in the rear. That sounds to me like the car was drive somewhat hard, but likely not tracked.

Originally Posted by Mark114

The oil lift monitor will calculate based on mileage and time and it factors in how the car is driven (stop and go city, highway cruising, and performance). The monitor will go to 0% after a year regardless of the mileage. The low percentage might just indicate that it has been almost a year since the last oil change.

Yeah, I should have clarified that it's based on time, mileage and driving conditions. Thanks for the clarification.

[Dabjbr]

Originally Posted by UnknownJinX

Gen V Small Block has been generally solid so far. I took mine to the track a few times and it took the abuse well.

Rock Auto has very good prices on Mobil1 ESP 0W-40 at about US$7.50 a quart. You can also try calling the Mobil1/Esso distributor near you and see what price they quote you. Could be even better than Rock Auto's price, or at least you don't have to pay and wait for shipping.



The oil life monitor is time-based, so maybe that has something to do with that. From my experience, you have to be tracking a lot for the oil life monitor to be that low. Do an eyeball check on the brake pads and tires. If the tires are close to bald or suspiciously new then it could have been tracked a lot, though I doubt that's the case. The amount of brake pad material left could also be an indicator.

I am personally not so worried about the DI gunk up. LT1 and L86 that you find in the Silverado's, Escalade's, etc. are largely similar(in fact, the short block is said to be identical), and they sell a lot of those trucks and truck-like SUV's. They run on thinner oil(for better CAFE) and their owners generally don't care for them as much as Corvette and Camaro owners do. Even then, here is a pic of the carbon buildup of a Gen V Small Block out of a stock truck(0W-20, no catch can, etc.) with 117k miles. It's not bad at all.



In fact, the only manufacturers that actually have issues with DI carbon buildup to the point that you will have driveability issues are BMW, VW, their associated brands(MINI, Audi, etc.) and I have heard Subaru has some issues as well. Other people just automatically assume that other brands with DI will 100% have issues. You think most Honda/Toyota/Mazda owners know what DI is? And yet their engines still run miles after miles. I know a guy from my RX-8 days that owns a 2014/2015 Mazda6 with 2.5 Skyactiv-G engine, which is DI. Has around 150k miles on it, regular maintenance, regular gas, mechanically stock, and driven regularly in -20 F/-30 C weather. Other than a busted oil pressure sensor seal causing an oil leak at around 145k miles, zero issues with driveability.

I haven't heard anyone really having issues with DI on GM, at least anything that's statistically significant(think A8 shudder). If the carbon buildup is that bad, you would be seeing walnut shell blasting setups mentioned in the Owner's Manual and present in the dealerships, like BMW.

I think catch cans are not worth it(trying to not step on people's toes here), but YMMV.

Right there with you and this is coming from the owner of a bolt on bmw 335i with 260k miles. I did my own walnut blasting too. The DI concerns are a bit exaggerated. Have no interest in catch cans but won’t pass judgement on those that believe in them.

[2SS Capt]

A catch can certainly won't hurt, anything you catch isn't going to your valves... I put one on at 50 miles on the odometer and have emptied it a handful of times with an ounce plus of oil, all didn't make it to my valves... Might not seem like a lot, but every little bit of catch helps...

[Dabjbr]

Originally Posted by 2SS Capt

A catch can certainly won't hurt, anything you catch isn't going to your valves... I put one on at 50 miles on the odometer and have emptied it a handful of times with an ounce plus of oil, all didn't make it to my valves... Might not seem like a lot, but every little bit of catch helps...

I agree. Definitely doesn’t hurt. I sometimes wish our cars had both DI and PI. That would’ve been ideal.

Anyway, I’m really impressed with the LT1. I think it’s very durable.

[sandm]

Originally Posted by Mark114

The monitor will go to 0% after a year regardless of the mileage.

this is interesting to know. I figured the camaro electronics would be similar to our '16 silverado. I went 18 months in the truck with the last oil change and only drove it 3500 miles in that time. it still showed 30% life when I had it changed.

[Nilly Welson]

To early to tell. Only 48k on my 17' SS 6 speed I bought new. I drive mine hard sometimes. If I can get 110k more miles I'll be happy. Lets face it, most people who buy these cars will be running them hard and not be driving them like a Toyota. Currently mine runs faster than new.

[2SS Capt]

Originally Posted by SnowWhiteSS

Had mine for 3 years now. No issues to note. I drive it very very hard sand it gives me 0 back talk. Your motor isn’t compromised btw, do not change the synthetic oil in these things at 3k unless your running E85 or tracking it. You will be wasting your money. They take 9 quarts of oil, takes a while for the oil to go thin. Pretty sure the manual says like 5k or something like that. I usually change mine at around 25% life.

If your really concerned, next time you do an oil change, cut open the oil filter and look for metallic shavings. But I promise you it’s fine.

Good advice though? Buy a oil catch can now, your valves will thank you later. These direct fuel injected motors like to gunk up the valves pretty quick .but that’s a direct injection thing, not a Chevy thing

Uh, the LT1 in the SS takes 10 quarts of oil, NOT 9... I change my oil at 3,000 miles or 1 year, whichever comes first... Fluids are cheap, engines are NOT... If you can't afford a $100 oil change per year, you can't afford a Camaro with an LT1...

Originally Posted by schoenmaro55

What concerns me is when I started the car for the first time ever, it only had 9% oil remaining with 5,300 miles on the odometer Does that mean the original owner probably drove the living hell out of it? Maybe lol.

Could you possibly link me to your favorite oil catch can? You are very correct with the DI and motors gunking up, not just a Chevy thing... it's happened to every make at one time or another because of it.

They likely hit the calendar before the miles, if it was only one year and 5,300 miles they probably drove it fairly easily... Change the oil, put the correct stuff in and enjoy the car (change the differential fluid as well)...

Originally Posted by schoenmaro55

Thank you! How often do you change your oil?

3,000 miles or 1 year, whichever comes first (usually the 1 year)...

I did oil changes at 505, 1,500 and 4,000 miles (and did differential changes at 505 and 1,500, next one will be at 7,000 miles...)

I've said it over and over...

FLUIDS ARE CHEAP... COMPONENTS ARE NOT!

If a $100 oil change give you heartburn, you bought the wrong car....

[95 imp]

Originally Posted by 2SS Capt

Uh, the LT1 in the SS takes 0 quarts of oil, NOT 9...

This is awkward....

Originally Posted by 2SS Capt

I change my oil at 3,000 miles or 1 year, whichever comes first... Fluids are cheap, engines are NOT... If you can't afford a $100 oil change per year, you can't afford a Camaro with an LT1...

3,000 miles or 1 year, whichever comes first (usually the 1 year)...

I did oil changes at 505, 1,500 and 4,000 miles (and did differential changes at 505 and 1,500, next one will be at 7,000 miles...)

I've said it over and over...

FLUIDS ARE CHEAP... COMPONENTS ARE NOT!

If a $100 oil change give you heartburn, you bought the wrong car....

While I wouldn't argue about the motor break in oil change frequency, the 3k oil change is old news. These modern synthetics do not break down as easy as the old oil. I mean, come on, it isn't a Model T (which required an oil change every 1000 miles)

That being said, your 3K/1year rule works for YOU and people who have garage ornaments.

People who DD or put more miles on the car it would be a waste. GM (or should I say gm) engineers put a lot of time/money to calibrate the oil life monitor. It logs the driving conditions (short trips, stop and go, highway, fully warmed up, etc) and calculates how much life is left, which is something the owner can't possibly do.

That being said, $100/yr is chump change. $500/yr (based on 15K miles) adds up.

As far as recommending that changing rear end oil every 6K is crazy. Even with conventional oil you can COMFORTABLY change it every 25K under normal driving.

To go 50K would be fine with synthetic oils. The ONLY circumstance I'd feel you'd have to change it as often as you do is if it were a track only car. And even then, it's debatable with modern oils.

It is your car and your dough. I'm not going to tell you your plan doesn't work for you, because, in your case (3K/yr), it's perfect.

Back in the day, I'd agree with ya that "3K rule" is a great idea, and I religiously changed my oil by that rule.

To say everyone should follow the "old 3k rule" with modern synthetics and oil life monitors is something, respectfully, I can't agree with any more.

Now, I could agree with once a year if your OLM doesn't trip due to low mileage.

[Nilly Welson]

[QUOTE=2SS Capt;11073893]Uh, the LT1 in the SS takes 0 quarts of oil, NOT 9... I change my oil at 3,000 miles or 1 year, whichever comes first... Fluids are cheap, engines are NOT... If you can't afford a $100 oil change per year, you can't afford a Camaro with an LT1...





Nope..the LT1 takes 10 quarts of oil not 0.