[Norm Peterson]

Breaker bar to start regardless of lug nut torque spec (even the 89 ft*lb lug nuts on her Subie get broken by hand). Then I'll use the Milwaukee 18v on low speed to finish removing the nuts. I have a feeling that high speed nut removal/installation tends to either polish or wear additional clearance in the threads making them less resistant to initial loosening over many cycles.

On installation I'll start the nuts by hand a couple of turns and use the Mil on low speed (which is also low power) to run the nuts down to what ends up being "not quite snug". Ratchet and torque wrench from there (2 or 3 stages with the torque wrench). Recheck the last stage torque on the first couple of nuts in the pattern.

One tends to get a lot fussy about this after experiencing stud breakage in a 1+g corner, and chances are each of us removes and replaces each wheel more times in a single full season than most average-owners put their daily-drivers through before they're scrapped.


Norm

[Roostie]

Thanks for all the responses, that's great info.

[Slate993tt]

Norm, You and I have like minds. I do the same process as you.

Chad