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Old 06-11-2019, 08:29 PM   #15
JCunningham


 
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he has a ZL1/1LE so its a stick. the more chop the worse the slow moving will be. youll be slipping the clutch or look like you cant drive a stick with too much duration. by the way big isnt always good. a friend of mine put a stage 3 cam in his 10 vette and I put a small custom cam in my 12 Camaro and I made more power on the same dyno.
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Old 06-12-2019, 11:27 AM   #16
oldman


 
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I have to be realistic, the number one reason for me looking at a loop-e cam is for sound, got WAY too much power already.
To the original poster:
http://www.cammotion.com/camshafts/l...222-232-108-3/

sumting like this for a LT1 of course...
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Old 06-12-2019, 11:49 AM   #17
oldman


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCunningham View Post
he has a ZL1/1LE so its a stick. the more chop the worse the slow moving will be. youll be slipping the clutch or look like you cant drive a stick with too much duration. by the way big isnt always good. a friend of mine put a stage 3 cam in his 10 vette and I put a small custom cam in my 12 Camaro and I made more power on the same dyno.

Loop is more dependent on lobe center angle (LSA), a tighter lobe center eill really produce a far more drivable far stronger mid-range cam. Basically it is untrue that a loop-e cam will have a soggy response time. I'm sure a 110 LSA on a decent build will be a super fun responsive cam. I would agree the duration should be low 22X intake, low 23X exhaust for a street car.
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Forged short block, large duration sub .600 lift Cam Motion cam, 7200 RPM fuel cut, Pray Ported Heads, 3.85 pulley D1X, stage II intercooler, DSX secondary low side, DSX E85 sensor, Lingenfelter big bore 2.0 pump, ported front cats, 60608 Borla, LT4 injectors, ZL1 1LE driveshaft and Katech ported TB, ported MSD intake, BTR valvetrain, ARP studs, ProFlow valves, PS4 tires.
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