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Old 01-27-2020, 10:18 AM   #29
L78toLT1

 
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Originally Posted by DPB1LE View Post
Ok thanks KingLT1 for the recommendation. I did have a LS3 front seal put in already. I will have the shop do a compression check when I bring it in. It's running very strong if it does have a ring problem. I've read on the forum here that the LT1 seals are weak and the shop's tuner told me with low mileage engines you get some boost blow by the rings? My engine only has the stock Whipple tune and stock pulley so I thought there wasn't much risk to damaging the pistons unless you start increasing boost/HP?
I've got 9K on my 2300 Maggie with the same seal & ventilation setup as King. No problems so far...
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Old 01-27-2020, 04:49 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by L78toLT1 View Post
I've got 9K on my 2300 Maggie with the same seal & ventilation setup as King. No problems so far...
That's good to hear. I've been reading a lot more posts about supercharging the LT1. I just ordered a catch can and a Metco breather. I'm hoping I won't have anymore oil leaks after installing them. I'm happy with the power I have now with the stock tune.

Last edited by DPB1LE; 01-28-2020 at 06:05 PM.
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Old 01-28-2020, 10:04 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by DPB1LE View Post
Ok thanks KingLT1 for the recommendation. I will have the shop do a compression check when I bring it in. It's running very strong still on the Whipple tune. I did have a LS3 front seal put in already. I've read on the forum here that the LT1 seals are weak and the shop's tuner told me that some boost gets by the rings in lower mileage engines? I thought there wasn't much risk to damaging the pistons unless you increase boost? I'll look into getting a catch can and breather.
There isn't a big risk if the tune is on point. Many canned tunes run rich and can cause issues because DI doesn't like to run rich...it's almost as bad as running lean. Many tuners out there tune these engines like they are port fuel injected which is another huge mistake.

My recommendation would be to either get a Mighty Mouse catch can system or at least a Metco valve cover breather with check valve. Also you should get it custom tuned as I mentioned earlier by someone who understands DI systems. Ted Jenetty, Pray Performance, EFX tuning...etc all can get you sorted with remote tuning. You should also consider a AEM wideband and verify your fueling is in the .82 Lambda range at WOT and fluctuating around 1.0 at part idle/part throttle.



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The mail order tune happen to be in Oklahoma called fast proms?
Bryan Herter @ PCM for Less.
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Old 06-20-2020, 06:48 AM   #32
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Old 06-20-2020, 08:25 AM   #33
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Man I am sorry to hear all the problems you've had no matter what blower your running no one needs to go thru the issues you have. Good luck and hope someone gets it straightened out, I've not heard of anyone having the issues you've had with any canned tune or a shop trying to fix it.
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Old 06-23-2020, 09:20 PM   #34
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This sucks. My Whippled truck actually ran great with the canned tune. Times confirmed. Custom now though.
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Old 06-25-2020, 02:32 PM   #35
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Car is ready pick her up tomorrow hoping for best. Vid will be posted of final pull...
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Old 06-25-2020, 05:26 PM   #36
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Old 06-25-2020, 09:09 PM   #37
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Old 06-25-2020, 09:41 PM   #38
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I've "broken" cars that come in for a dyno (back in the day). I'd let the customer know, hey the car blew up, be up-front and as honest as possible. My gut feeling is there is no sticking ring, one cylinder is bad and it is intermittent, keep running the motor and the engine will lock up and then toss the rod out the block. Any good shop would have a bore scope and look for the tell tail wear marks of a broken ring land / seized ring. Remmember it is not the rod bolt breaking and the rod flying out, it is the piston locking into the bore that fails the rod bolt then the rod flies through the block.
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Old 06-26-2020, 11:58 AM   #39
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I've "broken" cars that come in for a dyno (back in the day). I'd let the customer know, hey the car blew up, be up-front and as honest as possible. My gut feeling is there is no sticking ring, one cylinder is bad and it is intermittent, keep running the motor and the engine will lock up and then toss the rod out the block. Any good shop would have a bore scope and look for the tell tail wear marks of a broken ring land / seized ring. Remmember it is not the rod bolt breaking and the rod flying out, it is the piston locking into the bore that fails the rod bolt then the rod flies through the block.
Well I hope you didn't go into the shop and break mine ahahah JK JK

Really hoping for best. I sure don't need my motor blowing up the 2nd day home.
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Old 06-26-2020, 09:51 PM   #40
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Good luck and keep us posted.
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Old 07-01-2020, 09:40 AM   #41
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Good luck and keep us posted.
Will do. Just got off phone and can get car tomorrow and I'll post the info/media when I have it.
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Old 07-01-2020, 12:35 PM   #42
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Good to hear.
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