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Old 07-02-2019, 07:39 PM   #57
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Well damn it, sorry to see this but there’s always a silver lining, you have the opportunity to make it way nastier than it ever was before.
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Old 07-02-2019, 09:19 PM   #58
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Sell the GF and apply that money towards the engine..........
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Old 07-02-2019, 09:20 PM   #59
sixty9fordkiller
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a callies 416 kit is $2500ish


just saying

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Old 07-02-2019, 09:22 PM   #60
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unless THAT went up on July 1st as well.



Anyone else getting screwed with gas tax on July 1st. So far i believe its California and Illinois

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Old 07-02-2019, 09:51 PM   #61
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Ohio as well
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Old 07-02-2019, 09:54 PM   #62
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Ohio as well


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Old 07-03-2019, 07:23 AM   #63
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There is something very satisfying about rebuilding your engine from the bottom up
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Old 07-03-2019, 08:06 AM   #64
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Man, this sucks that you lost your engine like this. But at the mileage you are at this is a great opportunity to build something awesome that you can say is yours. That is what is so great about our cars or “muscle” cars. You don’t throw them away, you rebuild it into something better. That played a huge factor into buying my son his RS. If something goes wrong with it we will rebuild it, and him and I will do it together and that to me would be a priceless experience to have with him. We already had to replace the thermostat on his and that was well worth the scraped knuckles.

I am looking forward to seeing how you proceed, this totally sucks but I am rooting for you.
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Old 07-03-2019, 01:12 PM   #65
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Cranks usually survive (from my experience with diesel motors) Still worth tearing apart - if the block is good its a starting point for several options.
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Old 07-03-2019, 05:44 PM   #66
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You could as I did go build a engine which can add up, mine was $5k for forged stroked short block, via SAG performance/custom engine supply Jerry who sells on Ebay, and reputable but they may not be so cheap anymore, And with your having l99 hollow stems in a set of GMPP cnc'd may be the way to go for their price, I would go Dickey Scoggin's they freshen it up. Other than that as you know $6500 buys about a complete intake to pan ls3... then there's places like ……one stain financial..that make loans also ...really its one main, but interest is usually not the best …. Just some thoughts. If your going to build something most likely your stock block is Iffy at best and worn 150k its only capable of being over honed .020 and that's if the cast in cylinder sleeves you should not replace were cast in place perfectly straight.... and well a ls7 is even worse only being able to be over honed .005...……..that's something to really think about, bare block is like 1400$, your crank may be o.k. but stock hypereutectic....MEH.... So a guy could talk to some places and see what can be done on a budget or figure it out themselves...and Know the more performance oriented you go the more you should pay attention to maintenance in the future and that's $$$$ replacing springs over and over and maybe some nice oil like LS30, and of course the mods to go with a cam etc etc …..

And if you have that many miles on it in that time you have well I would say why not ditch AFM and go vvt cam that's like say a mild one like a low lift cam that has better duration and LSA and can live on beehives, and I don't mean hot cam I mean 525 HP type ASA cam hers one just to consider....Good Luck to you.
https://www.jegs.com/p/Chevrolet-Per...41625/10002/-1 And yes that would be a ls3 conversion.
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Old 09-01-2019, 06:50 PM   #67
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Figured I would update the thread with pictures of the carnage from the L99. Finally got it disassembled last night. I bought a used, almost complete lower mile (20k) LS3 to replace it. Almost ready to go in. Came with a brand new Melling 10296 oil pump. The previous owner was putting it in his project 1st gen Camaro but removed it and sold the car. So it had an LS1/Retro build oil pan and windage setup, which I am removing for my L99 pan and tray, as the LS1 windage tray is shorter and doesn't cover the # 1&2 rods/journals. Problem is, the L99 windage tray took some damage and got gauged up and bent a bit from the rod smacking it.

Cylinder bore looks ok, except at the very bottom of the bore it got a bit scratched by the side of the broken skirt. Hopefully it is fixable with some honing. It is really low, below the line that the rings come to. I really want to get this rebuilt so I can sell it and recoup some of the money from the swap.

In the pics, you can see the other rod end took some damage from the metal shards. Quite a few chunks fell out when I removed the pan and tray. The actual crank journal looks great in person. No scratches or anything.
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Old 09-01-2019, 07:08 PM   #68
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Glad to see you're making progress.
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Old 09-01-2019, 07:44 PM   #69
sixty9fordkiller
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since the pan is coming off, i would definitely do arp bolts on the entire bottom end, maybe a crank scraper, and C5.R chain if it was me

You'd have an all but bulletproof bottom end if youre staying NA

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Old 09-02-2019, 02:20 PM   #70
InFiD3ViL


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixty9fordkiller View Post
since the pan is coming off, i would definitely do arp bolts on the entire bottom end, maybe a crank scraper, and C5.R chain if it was me

You'd have an all but bulletproof bottom end if youre staying NA

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Man, I wish. I am broke now from all of the unexpected and expected little things, tune, tools, bolts, gaskets, etc that I have had to buy. I mean I have a bone stock LS3 sitting on a stand in my living room and can't even put a cam in it. It is frustrating, but just having the engine makes me happy. My car was my daily, so the last 2 months have been miserable.

I am actually a little curious to see just how the LS3 performs in comparison the my L99, although I am fully expected to be disappointed in that dept. as I am sure it will be a wash. Yes, I am 'gaining' 26 rwhp, but I am losing VVT, and it is still behind a 6l80e. But, I will be less reluctant to give it the beans as I was in my L99 due to the stock AFM lifters and lower redline. I babied the hell out of that engine just to destroy it with my own stupidity.

Only changes I am making to the LS3 are the front and rear seals and gaskets, dogbone/LS3 style timing dampener, Melling green O-ring, oil pan gasket, and ARP flexplate and torque converter bolts. Also painting the block aluminum with wrinkle red timing and valve covers. Already have the paint, so why not? Believe me, I understand what a missed opportunity this is, but sometimes it just isn't in the cards and I have slowly been accepting that.

If I keep the L99 and can salvage the bore/engine, THAT will be my project engine, so long as I don't get tempted to sell it. The plan is to go forged bottom end and take my time working on it with my son. I have a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ full time all wheel drive in my driveway that has been sitting for a few years. I have imagined an all wheel drive monster drag project. But as for now, that is just in my imagination lol.
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