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Old 01-24-2014, 08:08 AM   #29
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Mine should arrive around that same time frame.
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Old 01-24-2014, 09:15 AM   #30
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I'll fire up my computer and post a few pics... I did pull the back and sides of the center console...

I pulled the rear seats, and removed the rear seatbelts as no one is allowed to ride back there any more... Then pulled the door sill moulding, the rear seat plastic side pieces, and the front seats. There is a pretty substantial piece of foam inside the plastic side trim pieces... I broke them off and threw them away... It was virtually impossible to get them back in... After carefully marking the side panels, cut them as directed... Check several times before making any cuts... I'll tell you point blank, these are a mofo to get back in... The go between the main hoop and the car side... Have fun... No other recommendations here, other than they are relatively cheap if you tear one up... You will also have to trim these plastic pieces just a bit when you go back in with them where the foot holds the carpet up just a little bit... I used a tiny reciprocal air saw to do this.

It would be a bit easier if the passenger door is removed, but not enough so to make it worthwhile IMO....

Roll the carpet in both rear corners up and use a tie wrap to pull them together in the center near the back of the console.

The main bar has to be turned forward, inserted carefully into the car and then rotated back into place... Have at least two people to help with this step... Check the fit and clearances ( make sure its dentered) and remove it if necessary... I had to remove some of the sound / vibration stuff they squirt out at various spots.. This sucks as the stuff is really tough... . I then drilled or marked all the spots for the main frame... I pulled it back out and finished drilling the other holes...

Here is a point to remember... On the main hoop the bolts can go through from the inside... On the feet that go back to the wheel wells, put them in from the outside... It allows for the inner fender to fit back in. If you run these bolts through from the inside, they will strike the inner fender and eventually poke through...

After all the holes are drilled, have someone get under the car and mark the backer plates... Then drill them... If they didn't come with the kit, use pretty good sized flat washers inside and out, and a lock washer...

As was mentioned above... Before drilling anything, locate and note the location of the fuel lines... They pass right where one of the feet mounts... Spray some primer from a rattle can into a paint can cap and use a small brush the dab it on the areas drilled out. I used a bit of silicone caulk as well...

Place the main bar back in the car and rotate it in to position. Put all of the bolts in prior to tightening any of them.. This allows for slight shifts if needed.

After all the feet are bolted in, grab a door bar and insert it into the up
ER shoe. Leave about a quarter inch gap here... Mark the bar and drill it for a tight fit for the pin. Be careful to drill it through the center line... Remove the kick panel and pull the carpet up on the effected side and tuck it towards the gas pedal. Insert the door bar back into the upper shoe and pin it in place... Get the lower shoe and slide it into place and allow for a bit of swing radius in the lower shoe... Do not have the lower end of the bar fitted firmly into the shoe and mark it... I used a small piece of cloth rolled up to space it out from the inner face of the pivot point. About 3/16 of an inch... Then marked the ar for drilling. If you hold it firm against the inner wall, the bar will not pivot very well if at all... Once this is done, insert the pivot bolt and lay the shoe on the floor. Mark the holes and then remove the shoe. Drill the ho,es after first cerifying anything under the floor board that could be hit by the drill bit... Fuel lines etc... Mark the backer plates and drill them out... Bolt the shoe in, loosely, insert the pivot bolt, and then tighten everything on this side. Repeat these steps on the other side if you have both door bars...

Lay the carpet back as well as you can then determine where to start cutting... Cut from the outside of the car inward... This way most of the cut is hidden by trim panels... Cut out the circle of the bar and lay the carpet in then reinstall the trim pieces... The kick panels will also Ned to be trimmed at the bottom where the show holds the carpet up...to allow for a good fit... Put the rear seats back in. Then the fronts, and enjoy...

Pics on the way...
Thanks for the awesome info! This is what we were looking for!
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Old 01-24-2014, 11:01 PM   #31
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Thanks for the awesome info! This is what we were looking for!

When you putting it in?


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Old 01-24-2014, 11:38 PM   #32
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When you putting it in?


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Hoping to have it in by the end of Feb.
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11.57 @ 126.8 mph with a crappy 1.80 60'.....still learning to drive....M&H DR's and skinnies on 17" Welds.
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Old 01-27-2014, 06:08 PM   #33
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Can anyone post a pic from under the car ( where passenger side main bar mounts through the floor, behind the front seat) curious how or if I will need to relocate the fuel lines there. Thanks!
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2011 IOM SS/RS, M6. Look up our all generation Camaro club website at Heartland Camaros
Gforce Engineering Drivetrain, ECS 1500 Supercharger, TSP Cam, Alky Controls Meth single nozzle. 91 octane, 698 RWHP 625 rwtq. 4200#+, Tuned by Justin "Justune" Kalwei
11.57 @ 126.8 mph with a crappy 1.80 60'.....still learning to drive....M&H DR's and skinnies on 17" Welds.
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Old 01-27-2014, 06:40 PM   #34
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Great write up 2SS! Thank you
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Old 01-27-2014, 08:36 PM   #35
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Great write up 2SS! Thank you
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Old 01-27-2014, 11:44 PM   #36
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Can anyone post a pic from under the car ( where passenger side main bar mounts through the floor, behind the front seat) curious how or if I will need to relocate the fuel lines there. Thanks!
You won't have to relocate the lines. Just drill a small pilot hole carefully first and you'll see what needs to be done from there. You shouldn't be in the lines but right close along side for sure. Just be aware before drilling and you'll be fine.

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Old 01-28-2014, 09:44 AM   #37
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You won't have to relocate the lines. Just drill a small pilot hole carefully first and you'll see what needs to be done from there. You shouldn't be in the lines but right close along side for sure. Just be aware before drilling and you'll be fine.

Bryan
Ok, thanks. I have extra fuel line running there from the squash system. I'll make sure to drill carefully.
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11.57 @ 126.8 mph with a crappy 1.80 60'.....still learning to drive....M&H DR's and skinnies on 17" Welds.
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Old 01-28-2014, 10:13 AM   #38
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Ok, thanks. I have extra fuel line running there from the squash system. I'll make sure to drill carefully.
We can just put someone under the car with a blocking plate.
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Old 01-28-2014, 04:59 PM   #39
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mine is out for delivery. i plan to put it in over the next few weeks. ill take some pics while im doing it.
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Old 01-28-2014, 05:30 PM   #40
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mine is out for delivery. i plan to put it in over the next few weeks. ill take some pics while im doing it.
Awesome, thanks man!
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11.57 @ 126.8 mph with a crappy 1.80 60'.....still learning to drive....M&H DR's and skinnies on 17" Welds.
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Old 02-02-2014, 12:29 PM   #41
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mine came in friday. i dont have any pics yet but i will take some today. first impressions are that it looks like its well made. i get giggly when i look at it. i havent cut all the stuff off of it yet but it looks cool.
i dont want to be negative but the instructions are terrible. they assume that i put in roll bars for a living i guess. tim and the guys havebeen really cool so i dont want to start a bash but if i received instructions like this on a piece of automotive mfg equipment i would make the vendor send a tech out to show my people how to do it. until i read this thread again i assumed that they forgot to drill the backing plates. it did not say anywhere in the instructions that you have to drill them and no pics of under the car are provided.
it may turn out that im just over reacting because the instructions are not complete. if so, i will come back and say so. if the product goes in and does its job then ill be happy with it. usually when projects start out frustrating me, they go down hill from there. why wouldnt they just send specific instructions? not sure.
more later
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Old 02-02-2014, 12:35 PM   #42
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The instructions are terrible. It'll make more sense once you get started. We got one partly installed yesterday. It's more tedious than anything.
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