[1LEDude]

Hi all, please chime in if you’ve seen anything like this before.

This evening, I drove my car (2018 Camaro 2ss 1LE) to a gas station approximately 2 miles from my house. During this time the car the car flashed several warning lights including service stabilitrack and rear axle then shut off as I pulled in. I started the car back up and proceeded to drive home, while doing so the car shut itself off 3 more times. Luckily I was able to restart the car while it was moving until the third time after I had pulled of the main road and into my neighborhood. I was able to restart this time after turning the car completely off and back on.

Over the past few days I have noticed a few oddities with the instrument cluster, the tach will randomly jump 500ish rpm without the engine doing so, it will change the modes randomly and the oil pressure gauge has also done a weird “flutter” thing where it jumps from 32ish psi to over 40 then back down for no real reason. I’ve even managed to datalog the oil pressure behavior with HP Tuners.

I’ve read through the forums and noticed a few ideas including ground cleaning/additional grounds as well as replacing the battery. Any other ideas? I plan to pick up a replacement battery Friday or Saturday whenever I find the time as it is the original and around 4-5 years old.

Thanks for any input.

[LiqTenExp]

Battery is not a bad place to start.

Note you can even get stabilitrack faults to pop up due to excessive misfires (based on your description above likely not your issue LOL)... it is not a straightforward error message.

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by 1LEDude

Hi all, please chime in if you’ve seen anything like this before.

This evening, I drove my car (2018 Camaro 2ss 1LE) to a gas station approximately 2 miles from my house. During this time the car the car flashed several warning lights including service stabilitrack and rear axle then shut off as I pulled in. I started the car back up and proceeded to drive home, while doing so the car shut itself off 3 more times. Luckily I was able to restart the car while it was moving until the third time after I had pulled of the main road and into my neighborhood. I was able to restart this time after turning the car completely off and back on.

Over the past few days I have noticed a few oddities with the instrument cluster, the tach will randomly jump 500ish rpm without the engine doing so, it will change the modes randomly and the oil pressure gauge has also done a weird “flutter” thing where it jumps from 32ish psi to over 40 then back down for no real reason. I’ve even managed to datalog the oil pressure behavior with HP Tuners.

I’ve read through the forums and noticed a few ideas including ground cleaning/additional grounds as well as replacing the battery. Any other ideas? I plan to pick up a replacement battery Friday or Saturday whenever I find the time as it is the original and around 4-5 years old.

Thanks for any input.

I know when my alternator was failing it would cause stabiltrak errors as well. The volt gauge should show a steady 14-14.4 volts If it dips too low on the volts it will say SERVICE charging System

[1LEDude]

Thank you both for commenting. Hopefully this is just a battery issue. I have recently replaced the alternator after it died on me late one night, maybe the massive drain from its failure killed off the battery as well.

[1LEDude]

Well, the plot thickens.

This afternoon I grabbed a new battery, installed it into the car and started it. It shut itself off in the same manner twice then ran normally for about 10 minutes. I decided to drive it around the neighborhood, as I was backing out of the driveway it flashed the same warning lights and shut itself off. I did drive it around the block with it trying to shut down twice then recovering finally shutting off again. Pulled it into the garage, checked the bcm fuses thinking body control module issues and now when I try to start it simply says “Press Clutch to Start”. Obviously the clutch is depressed.

Does this sound like a body control module issue? I’ve found no blown fuses related to it but maybe the module itself has died? I’m at a loss as this seems to have progressed from an intermediate issue to a more permanent issue.

[1LEDude]

Also, just noticed the electric steering is on despite the fact that the car is not running, it goes off whenever the switch is off.

[1LEDude]

Tonight I found the issue. I found the lower ground on the back of the drivers side head had become loose. Tightened the bolt and all is well.

[atx_traveler]

Originally Posted by 1LEDude

Tonight I found the issue. I found the lower ground on the back of the drivers side head had become loose. Tightened the bolt and all is well.

good find, and a good place for future folks to check. thank you for updating with the solution.

[JT Camaro]

Got a picture?

I had the car die on me with a charging system error (alternator wasn't sending current or ECM wasn't commanding it), but I haven't been able to find anything or replicate it since!

[1LEDude]

JT,

I do not have a picture although you can feel around the head to find the 2 ground wires on the rear if the drivers-side head. My issue was with the lower of the 2 and required a 13mm to tighten. There is 1 other ground wire on the rear of the passenger head as well you may want to check while you’re at it.

[JT Camaro]

Originally Posted by 1LEDude

JT,

I do not have a picture although you can feel around the head to find the 2 ground wires on the rear if the drivers-side head. My issue was with the lower of the 2 and required a 13mm to tighten. There is 1 other ground wire on the rear of the passenger head as well you may want to check while you’re at it.

Appreciate it, sadly a bit tighter space on the zl1 and couldn't get my hand behind the passenger side, but the driver seemed fine (only found 1)

[SSgtSS1LE]

Here is an Engine Components - Right Side (LT1) view:

[SSDan]

Originally Posted by JT Camaro

Appreciate it, sadly a bit tighter space on the zl1 and couldn't get my hand behind the passenger side, but the driver seemed fine (only found 1)

Or you could just add an additional ground cable. Its cheap and easy. This fix has taken care of a lot of weird electrical problems for people. Plus you don't have to climb under the car or bust your knuckles and it's easy to check to make sure it stays tight.

Here are the details: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=586153

[wheres6.2]

had slow crank a while ago so bad until it ended up not starting at all I replaced the starter it cranked right up drove for about 40mins it cut off mid drive car lost power the 350a fuse had blown I replaced it car has power again but still no crank just clicks sometimes it started grinding now it just clicks again tried jumping a few times nothing so I replaced the battery and still nothing just clicks