[Northtrack]

Originally Posted by Vtor_ZL1

2018 ZLE released its jiggly bits at roughly 22,000 miles. Rods n mains looked good, so new bearing, bolts and that part is "good" to go. Does that mean new break-in?

I just had my pump replaced in August (rods/mains also good) and asked the same question re break in. The consensus was that I'm good to go with no special break-in, so I took it straight to the track. Everything seemed fine with the new pump in the small amount of street driving that I did before the track, but once on the track, it was evident that I was WAY down on power which cut the weekend very short.

The power loss appears to be a function of the air in the S/C cooling system (not uncommon based on various posts in this forum). The dealership that did the pump replacement made no attempt to remove the air from the S/C cooling system (special fitting required from GM). After waiting 5 weeks for the oil pump to be replaced, I'm 2+ weeks and waiting for the special fitting so that I can get the S/C cooling system bled. Basically 2 months lost due to the oil pump issue.........

Bottom line, I don't think that there is any particular break-in requirements for the new pump, but make sure that the dealership properly bleeds the S/C cooling system.

[Rodan]

Originally Posted by Northtrack

The power loss appears to be a function of the air in the S/C cooling system (not uncommon based on various posts in this forum). The dealership that did the pump replacement made no attempt to remove the air from the S/C cooling system (special fitting required from GM). After waiting 5 weeks for the oil pump to be replaced, I'm 2+ weeks and waiting for the special fitting so that I can get the S/C cooling system bled. Basically 2 months lost due to the oil pump issue.........

The OEM design for the intercooler circuit is stupid, and my experience with this was that the dealer techs had no idea what they were doing when it came to LT4 intercooler bleeding.

It's worth every penny of what an aftermarket surge tank costs to not have to depend on the dealer for this. I used an ADM tank and it solved the problem... for good.

My thread on the surge tank install: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=564965

[puppykat33]

Here is a much cheaper tool to bleed and fill you SC. Unless you are pulling your SC alot i see no need to spend 300 bucks when you can get the same job done for 25 dollars.

https://www.dedicatedmotorsports.com...illercombo.htm

[Rodan]

Originally Posted by puppykat33

Here is a much cheaper tool to bleed and fill you SC. Unless you are pulling your SC alot i see no need to spend 300 bucks when you can get the same job done for 25 dollars.

https://www.dedicatedmotorsports.com...illercombo.htm

Looks like a nice product. First I've heard of it... had it been available when I went through the intercooler issues, I probably would have bought it.

That said, the surge tank allows for continuous self-purging, and allows you to check fluid level easily. Is $300 a lot for a plastic tank and some hoses? Sure it is, but it's also different solution than a substitute for the factory bleeding tool.

[avalonandl]

I urge all of you with LT4/LT5 engines that have the OE oil pump prior to 4/18 build date to have them replaced. If the dealer refuses explain there was a design flaw in the original manufacture.

[Rnovrit]

Originally Posted by avalonandl

I urge all of you with LT4/LT5 engines that have the OE oil pump prior to 4/18 build date to have them replaced. If the dealer refuses explain there was a design flaw in the original manufacture.

As nice as that would be, they aren't going to do any work on pumps that have not failed without GM recalling them. Should they be responsible and replace the pumps? Absolutely. Will they? Probably not unless it fails.

[jjgi5150]

Originally Posted by avalonandl

I urge all of you with LT4/LT5 engines that have the OE oil pump prior to 4/18 build date to have them replaced. If the dealer refuses explain there was a design flaw in the original manufacture.

Hi
Curious as to where you got that exact build date cut-off.


JJ

[george]

What is the the TSB for Oil pump failure. Can someone PDF it?

[LT4Greg]

Originally Posted by avalonandl

I urge all of you with LT4/LT5 engines that have the OE oil pump prior to 4/18 build date to have them replaced. If the dealer refuses explain there was a design flaw in the original manufacture.

How in the hell can we do this? Unless a pump fails, GM won’t just replace one just because we think they should be replaced!

[L78toLT1]

It will be interesting to see if any ZL1`s with suspect pumps make it to six figure mileage without issue. A fairly small but certainly not insignificant number of failures are happening pretty early on. Do you guys think that any of these cars will make 100k?

[LT4Greg]

I’m hoping and keeping fingers crossed that my 2017 ZL1’s oil pump holds together for the long haul/run! So far at 14,500 miles everything is good but could change though.

[IneedAZ]

Originally Posted by LT4Greg

I’m hoping and keeping fingers crossed that my 2017 ZL1’s oil pump holds together for the long haul/run! So far at 14,500 miles everything is good but could change though.

I am at 14k on my 17 as well. I decided not to take a chance and it will changed to latest release when they do my upgrades. Taking forever to get my car in the shop, they are so busy. Never know there is a pandemic. Been waiting 3 months now to get the car in. They ordered the parts back in July.

[LT4Greg]

My plan is to keep my ZL1 stock and not do any mods. It seems to have more than enough hp for my driving habits and I need to get it paid off too!

[Lafourche1]

Originally Posted by LT4Greg

My plan is to keep my ZL1 stock and not do any mods. It seems to have more than enough hp for my driving habits and I need to get it paid off too!

That longer powertrain warranty is a very strong driver of keeping the car stock. I am of the same mind set.