[AndyUK]

Originally Posted by bybcous

Oldman, while I personally cant verify this, I have read that all compatible stock afm cams will only net about 15 hp, but for $450 and nothing to spend but your time, I do not see it as a bad investment if you are comftorable tackling this as a DIY project. Add full bolt ons and e85 and you should be at 500 easily.

Who did your tuning?

[bybcous]

Originally Posted by AndyUK

Who did your tuning?

Local shop big with Mopar, dtp racing.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by bybcous

Local shop big with Mopar, dtp racing.

Yep, they did my supercharged Challenger... really top notch.

[oldman]

Jannetty just confirmed the pan DOES NOT NEED TO BE DROPPED... getting cheaper and easier...

[aa406079]

oldman... are you saying bybcous 's set up will need new springs and rocker arms every 20k miles?

you dont feel 500 whp is doable in a daily driver without tear downs every 20k?

[bybcous]

New springs and rocker arms every 20k? Damn i was not expecting this, how much work is required to install those items?

[bybcous]

Here is my full parts list, the only item I did not upgrade were rocker arms I believe, will I have problems eventually?

[oldman]

I'm going from my LS1 days. Lots of things have changed, but even in the early 2000s it was the same story... modern springs, modern bearings, modern break-in procedures you won't have a problem.... I've changed many many many everything on a LS1 that "won't be a problem".

IMO, trunion and valve springs on an aggressive lift ramp .660 lift cam will experience:
spring fatigue, trunion wear and timing chain stretch pre-100,000 miles. While a .560 lift cam will not. When? I think LS3 guys would have a better gauge on that. I hope I'm wrong, but will leave it to guys that have been doing it over the last 10 years vs my 1997 to 2004ish experience.

My autoX cars (both Hondas) I change valvesprings every 20,000 miles and yes they are the newest and greatest wizbang each and every time.. conical, shotpeen un0btanium alloy.

[BradfordCamaro]

So if You were to order a camshaft. How would You spec it out or what would you want to see on the Cam card? .5 Intake?/Exhuast?? Lobe seperation?

[JaxChris]

oldman, I'm guessing they are S2000's? Other than DOHC being rougher on valve springs in general, the S2000 is even more brutal with how many guys I've seen push the RPM range way up. That thing has a stout little motor for sure, but it practically eats itself alive to perform at that level.

For the LT1 w/ AFM, I would think any of the first 3 Comp Cam XFI AFM's will work fine with the stock valve train.

If your cam specs are anything close the 624-500/512/524-13 cams, I wouldn't sweat it. If you went for a bonkers cam, like the 624-536-13 (or even more aggressive), pushing the RPM range well above 7k, then I would look into some regular valvetrain maintenance or would just forget keeping AFM to begin with and get some serious heads/valve/rockers/springs/retainers.

Personally I think for those looking at an affordable cam job on the AFM models, the 624-524-13 can't be beat. I just wish it came with a little more fuel lobe to make it E85 friendly for those looking to make great numbers without boost.

[aka Reckless]

Pretty much why I'm doing it in stages:

Stage 1 - Cam, springs, lifters, and forged pistons with all the nice little side items (wires, etc)

Stage 2 - Some kind of FI after I get some miles on Stage 1

[oldman]

Originally Posted by BradfordCamaro

So if You were to order a camshaft. How would You spec it out or what would you want to see on the Cam card? .5 Intake?/Exhuast?? Lobe seperation?

I AM interested in the comp cam designs with the .560 lift on the low side to the GM perf Cam on the wild side. I have all the cams listed in my DD thread:

http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showth...=444879&page=3

Don't get me wrong there is a lot of power to be gained from an aggressive ramp profile and a proper head package designed for a .660 lift cam. The stock head stalls out between .525 and .670

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...ylinder-heads/

[oldman]

Originally Posted by 2SS_in_GA

Pretty much why I'm doing it in stages:

Stage 1 - Cam, springs, lifters, and forged pistons with all the nice little side items (wires, etc)

Stage 2 - Some kind of FI after I get some miles on Stage 1

Are the LT4 forged? Either way I'd go with the LT4 piston and ring.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by JaxChris

oldman, I'm guessing they are S2000's? Other than DOHC being rougher on valve springs in general, the S2000 is even more brutal with how many guys I've seen push the RPM range way up. That thing has a stout little motor for sure, but it practically eats itself alive to perform at that level.

sleeved 2.1 liter B engines with Jun III cams 275 HP at 8800 rpm, shift at 9500 rpm. the other is a sleeved 2.4 K supercharged 450ish HP, both are DD, my son and my daughter... Ya know Texas girl wants to pack heat, drives a manual, needs at least 400+ Hp in a Civic, ironically she hates loud exhaust.... Like I don't even know why the factory bothers to put mufflers on a performance car.

I do like to keep the RPM high and the torque peak lower and longer on the supercharged setup and pump fuel. I did not go with E85 on the Civic as I was unsure if the factory brain would support it and it would not support swapping e85 to pump gas and back. The lower torque keeps stuff from breaking and the higher RPM keeps the engine away from detonation. I got a new direct inject 2.0 Civic and been looking at adding a Type R turbo to it. It is a K20 but the exhaust faces the front of the car. Economy VTEC but probably easily swappable to the Type R dual VTEC-I parts.

I will note I do NOT run titanium retainers. As there are wear problems depending on the springs and it is unpredictable. i run chrome-molly and make up for it with a slightly stiffer spring. I can't help wonder at the .660 lift dual spring wear pattern on these packages with titanium retainers. At least on a Honda, when not on VTEC I'm looking at .400 lift, the spring tops walk back and forth across (oscillate) the retainer as they are compressed and ablate the titanium (and visa versa). The higher the lift the more walk. I honestly have no idea why titanium is used on a street driven retainer.

Originally Posted by JaxChris

For the LT1 w/ AFM, I would think any of the first 3 Comp Cam XFI AFM's will work fine with the stock valve train.

If your cam specs are anything close the 624-500/512/524-13 cams, I wouldn't sweat it. If you went for a bonkers cam, like the 624-536-13 (or even more aggressive), pushing the RPM range well above 7k, then I would look into some regular valvetrain maintenance or would just forget keeping AFM to begin with and get some serious heads/valve/rockers/springs/retainers.

Personally I think for those looking at an affordable cam job on the AFM models, the 624-524-13 can't be beat. I just wish it came with a little more fuel lobe to make it E85 friendly for those looking to make great numbers without boost.

I think all this makes sense, clearly when you get close to the GM perf cam, you might as well look into springs, afm delete etc. I like the -13 and would at a very minimal look into the comp cams concial single spring.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...-lt1-cam-swap/

Note the cam gained 37 HP, and 55ish with CAI, stock heads.

EFI_Tuning would know if -13 will need more fuel lobe. I dunno... +30 HP or 6% or so in a shorter injection duration...