[SFV1LE]

Originally Posted by Heartbreaker

I switched over to Goodridge stainless steel lines. I do not notice a different feel in the brakes. Abrasion resistance and protection from road debrie is better than OEM. The big improvement was when I put in SRF DOT 4. Great stuff...

You're saying that on track after a really hard session where brakes get super hot, you think there is no difference with SS brake lines?

Are the ZL1 brake lines designed better, use a stronger material, than other sports car lines?

ZL1 brakes get super hot and even Motul 660 DOT 4 boils. Brake line issues when fluid boils are a common issue, and stainless removes this at a very low cost. I'm trying Brembo Racing fluid next, if that boils I'll try SRF.

[vr46]

I agree with Dave above. The track I'm mainly on (Apex Motor Club) has two straights where you hit about 130mph before hard braking, lap after lap. Pedal with OEM lines got "long/soft" after a while, even with the DOT4. Switched to SS lines and the pedal feel is much more consistent and firm. My opinion, SS lines help for sure. Consistent pedal, more confidence.

Can't comment on CF.

[BlueinTN]

I didnt say this on the other 5 threads but you might want to consider if they are DOT approved ...esp if you wreck on the track and then try and get GM to warranty your car after word. That could get messy....or so I heard.

[Millionautos]

Hey! Vendor here, I see a lot of misinformation here for CF so I'll try to help clear up the air. I understand the skepticism as this is something that hasn't been made for any consumer market! We brought it to the Camaro platform first as both of us own them, we will be expanding to other cars in the near future.

Our lines are DOT/TUV certified,
They do not "flex" in the sense you're thinking more than SS lines, they are actually stiffer, and have a much higher burst pressure than any OEM or SS line. they are more accepting of being bent though, most SS lines over time can kink and form to a shape causing them to eventually burst.


A good brake line can give you stopping confidence lap after lap, what we are trying to sell is the absolute best you can buy, the same technology that goes in to F1, F3, and Motogp bikes.

We do recommend Brembo HTC64 fluid for best results, since it has some of the lowest fluid compressibility you can get.

If anyone has anymore questions feel free to shoot me a PM or reply here I will be happy to answer what I can.

[SWZL11LE]

With all due respect and by meaning no disrespect to some members who are posting here, unfortunately there is a lot of bad information being posted.


Here is an analogy, the guy who buys a ZL1 and never revs above 3k rpm, and says its a waste of money, a V6 Camaro is just as good. This is the type of mentality I see with some of the posts made here.



Under hard driving conditions, the braking of the ZL1 / ZL1 1LE is lack luster compared to any other performance capability of this car.


Those who have changed lines and see no difference? Well this is very well possible, if you aren't really using the brakes of the car in a demanding fashion which put s your stock brakes too the test, or you just lack the feel. (again I mean no disrespect when I say this, it is the truth that there are drivers within all skill levels).



There have been people who have taken the stock brake lines, cut them open and saw the fiber / brass braiding in them, then have claimed these cars have somewhat of a performance oriented brake line also have no expertise in what they are talking about. Any hydraulic line you cut open, be it from a 1980 Dodge Colt to a high performance vehicle that uses traditional rubber line will have this. A hydraulic line no matter how low grade will need some sort of a braiding inside in order to help it from bursting under certain pressures. There are even garden hoses with braiding in them.



There is expansion from just pure pressure, and there is expansion from thermal elements with the stock brake lines. When you start really using your brakes, the stock lines expand under the higher braking pressures which causes an extremely indirect braking feel. To make things worse, the stock lines also expand even more because of the increased temperatures within the braking system aka the brake fluid starting to reach extreme temperatures. This is all due to the material of the brake line and the construction of it. This isn't some sort of magic, its just simple physics.



Upgrading the lines along with the fluid of these cars do wonders, it makes the brakes not only razor sharp and direct feeling, but it also makes the braking consistent lap over lap even under the most demanding circumstances.


Be it the carbon fiber lines or the stainless lines, an experienced driver will be able to easily tell the difference, because the difference is pretty big.


Other than the carbon fiber brake lines being able to have a minimum burst pressure rate over 16000psi, the biggest advantage they have over stainless steel braided lines is the fact that they do not bind like stainless steel braided lines. While being extremely resistant to expansion from pressure and resistant to thermal expansion, the carbon fiber braided lines are very flexible in terms of routing. Again, flexible in terms of routing, not expansion, these are two different areas. You can grab one of those carbon fiber brake lines, tie a knot it in, and it will still be able to meet its minimum burst rate pressure which is 16000 psi. Try to tie a knot in a stainless steel line, well good luck. The biggest down fall of a stainless steel line is the binding it causes from lock to lock, and this is where the carbon fiber brake lines excels over the stainless.


I had to chime in here, because I think these forums are great for all of us to learn and pass on our knowledge to others.

[20Bluezl1]

Who has the CF lines for sale?

[Millionautos]

Originally Posted by 20Bluezl1

Who has the CF lines for sale?

http://www.millionautos.com

Site is still under construction but it works for purchasing sets just fine.

[Mountain]

Originally Posted by SWZL11LE

There have been people who have taken the stock brake lines, cut them open and saw the fiber / brass braiding in them, then have claimed these cars have somewhat of a performance oriented brake line also have no expertise in what they are talking about. Any hydraulic line you cut open, be it from a 1980 Dodge Colt to a high performance vehicle that uses traditional rubber line will have this. A hydraulic line no matter how low grade will need some sort of a braiding inside in order to help it from bursting under certain pressures. There are even garden hoses with braiding in them.

I can’t help but think you’re directing this at me since I made it a point to cut open stock SS 1LE stuff, investigate their construction and post up on it due to the vast conjecture on the stock lines.

If so, I’m sorry that you think the information I presented isn’t correct, but I actually do have real-life, relative experience with rubber hose product and my statements are back by facts/research. There are some things I strayed away from, trying to get to a general point due to the fact of this being a hobby forum.

The brake lines, at least on the SS and ZL1 are made more robust than most rubber brake lines. The fronts more-so over the rears. It comes down to the “rubber” layers and reinforcement package within vs most other “rubber” lines. For many people, not going past something like 8/10 on track and/or only do very few track events, there probably isn’t much value for those individuals to upgrade.

[Stephen12ZL1]

yes, the CF lines make a difference! I had the stock lines for almost two years with brake feel getting worse/more spongy every track event. The CF lines are amazing and the pedal is rock solid with Motul 600. I'm switching to HTC 64 soon.

[Millionautos]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

yes, the CF lines make a difference! I had the stock lines for almost two years with brake feel getting worse/more spongy every track event. The CF lines are amazing and the pedal is rock solid with Motul 600. I'm switching to HTC 64 soon.

Awesome to hear!

[20Bluezl1]

I have to give this forum a break because I'm going to go broke or get kicked out of my house. Hey at least I'll still have my Z.

[BlueinTN]

Originally Posted by Millionautos

Hey! Vendor here, I see a lot of misinformation here for CF so I'll try to help clear up the air. I understand the skepticism as this is something that hasn't been made for any consumer market! We brought it to the Camaro platform first as both of us own them, we will be expanding to other cars in the near future.

Our lines are DOT/TUV certified,
They do not "flex" in the sense you're thinking more than SS lines, they are actually stiffer, and have a much higher burst pressure than any OEM or SS line. they are more accepting of being bent though, most SS lines over time can kink and form to a shape causing them to eventually burst.


A good brake line can give you stopping confidence lap after lap, what we are trying to sell is the absolute best you can buy, the same technology that goes in to F1, F3, and Motogp bikes.

We do recommend Brembo HTC64 fluid for best results, since it has some of the lowest fluid compressibility you can get.

If anyone has anymore questions feel free to shoot me a PM or reply here I will be happy to answer what I can.

There all teflon tubing with braiding over the top unlike standard brake lines correct?


I still watch about kinking them.

[NorthGeorgia]

Subscribed. Interesting article below which seems to support both expansion, WHIP and life differences between types of lines. Does anyone know the actual specification for the ZL1 OE brake lines and a side by side to other types? I will say that I am experiencing what I would consider a softer or longer pedal at Road Atlanta if I push over 155 into turn 10a for more than 3-4 consecutive laps. Using SRF or HTC64 on OE pads and rotors. I am now trying to determine if pad thickness is a contributing factor when new or at < 5mm or if related to thermal expansion of line under intense pressure. Am also consistently documenting a 1mm greater pad wear rate on inboard side.

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how...-lines-upgrade

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by NorthGeorgia

Subscribed. Interesting article below which seems to support both expansion, WHIP and life differences between types of lines. Does anyone know the actual specification for the ZL1 OE brake lines and a side by side to other types? I will say that I am experiencing what I would consider a softer or longer pedal at Road Atlanta if I push over 155 into turn 10a for more than 3-4 consecutive laps. Using SRF or HTC64 on OE pads and rotors. I am now trying to determine if pad thickness is a contributing factor when new or at < 5mm or if related to thermal expansion of line under intense pressure. Am also consistently documenting a 1mm greater pad wear rate on inboard side.

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how...-lines-upgrade

Good article, thanks for sharing.